Engine trashed?

Test drive went good. Couldn't drive it much and stayed 5k rpms or less and it could handle higher rpms much better. Definitely drives better on the high end. The low rpms it's a little jerky and sluggish. Either from the loss of compression on 6, the ecm needs more time to relearn or the valve in the intake I removed makes it sluggish. As of right now it's much more drivable though with the rocker back in place just not 100%. Also I should check for vacuum leaks too.

 

What's the thickest oil you guys would run in our motors? I don't want to damage any pumps but I'd like to attempt to seal cyl 6 rings as best I can.

Also remember this is basically a trash motor at this point so I'm not too concerned about damage long term. I'm actively looking for a low mile motor to engine swap.

 

Up to 15W-40 is approved by Toyota quietly. Honestly, even 20W-50 would be fine if it isn’t 10° out. They are really not all that different. I’d probably keep to 15W-40 just for the oil options.

 

Awesome, thank you! I'll pick some 15w-40 up tomorrow and drive the truck around for a bit see if I can clean up the compression enough to daily drive for a while.

 

I’ll be surprised if it makes much difference, but worth a try.

 

Trucks actually driving decent currently. It's amazing what both exhaust valves working on the cylinder will do lol.

 

I would start with 10-30 and gradually move my way up. I don't think it will make much difference though

 

Oil is what creates the seal on the piston rings no? Wouldn't it help deal with it not thinning as bad as 0w-20?

 

Ive squirted oil in a cold engine cylinder to seal the rings better but thats not standard practice on a tightly built engine. (in my opinion)

 

Engine is throwing no codes. I also put in the thicker oil and removed the engine cap and it was actually sucking in slightly instead of building pressure. No codes but sluggish, slightly rough idle, poor acceleration and when hitting about 5k rpms it takes off like a rocket. When accelerating there's also random misfires but nothing like it was. Just a few every now and again just enough to feel the truck become sluggish. The spark plugs are dark black. Probably from being fouled from the misfires from the rocker arm and from the massive vacuum leak. I ordered replacement spark plugs just to see if the truck will drive again.

Still on the look out for an engine.

 

Gotta do something about that tune

 

I wish there was someone local. OTT refused to help since yotawerx was original tuner.

 

That's not accurate.

 

If you were an early tester then you were an early ginnie pig. There is a reason why most companies don't mess around with forced induction. It takes skill and experience to properly dial in a truck. You cant possibly expect anyone to touch your truck with everything you have going on. Its a liability issue and no one wants to risk their reputation on so many unknowns.

 

Returning back to stock would be a nice next step OP (as noted by the folks at OTT). Would take away the biggest variability (FI tune/SC) and let you know if you do need a new engine. It is a time suck I know, but that’s why we all love our tacos.

 

It is accurate. If I wish to pay an OTT tuner to look at the mapping of the truck and I'm being told "you were a guinea pig and we don't want liability" then yes that is accurate as OTT will not tune my truck. Besides everyone signs liability clauses, I would never think about trying to go after yotawerx because I knew what I was signing up for and I did sign a clause.

I get what you guys are saying not bashing OTT at all here. Just wish I had a local professional tuner to help and see my mapping numbers.

No one wants to pay a shop the amount of money it takes to diagnose and throw parts at a custom truck. I for one am mechanically inclined to disect and repair my truck which I have done so by putting the rocker that wasn't installed back in place. Misfires are gone and the truck feels like it's lagging and I'm not sure why as no codes are currently being shown.

What I can not do like you posted in your message to me "There is a reason why most companies don't mess around withforced induction. It takes skill and experience to properly dial in a truck."

I do not have this experience and I am trying to trust OTT to do it since I lack these skills. This is extremely custom tuning and there's only a select few that do this and for me OTT is the only one local enough for me to drive to.

When is the truck good enough to be tuned by you guys? When I say I swapped the motor? When I say there's no codes? When I go back to stock and reinstall everything back? It shouldn't be when I say I've done something. I would think it should be when a tuner gets his eyes on the mapping and states it can't be tuned because there's an underlying issue because the changes he is making are not fixing it.

20% of the votes up top of the thread think it's a tune issue. I have to continue to knock off possibilities. Hooking up a PC to an ECM is much easier then going back to stock.

Just my 2 cents. It's your company you have the right to refuse anyone.