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Engine valve noise

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Chief1959, Jan 14, 2016.

  1. Jan 14, 2016 at 3:08 PM
    #1
    Chief1959

    Chief1959 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    My Tacoma has 239,000 on it. Its a 2007, has a 2.7 (4cyl) engine. When you lug the engine, after it's warmed up, (mostly between 35-50mph), prior to it downshifting, has a lot of preignition/detonation valve noise. I've had the engine analyzed, and there is no check engine light. I am wondering if it the timing chain might be getting worn, or the tensioner is not working properly, which might be causing timing advance or retard issues during acceleration. Any thoughts? The analyzer gave a clean read out, and that everything was within parameters.
     
    jason davis likes this.
  2. Jan 14, 2016 at 6:36 PM
    #2
    cheech1

    cheech1 Well-Known Member

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    What grade of fuel are you using? You may want to try a higher octane, especially at your high mileage.
     
  3. Jan 14, 2016 at 9:57 PM
    #3
    Lester Lugnut

    Lester Lugnut Well-Known Member

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    What is "preignition/detonation valve noise"?
     
  4. Jan 14, 2016 at 11:46 PM
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    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    Good question. OP pick one... Those are three different things.

    1.) Pre-ignition = The premature combustion of the fuel–air mixture in an internal combustion engine before the spark plug ignites.

    2.) Detonation = Occurs when combustion of the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder does not start off correctly in response to ignition by the spark plug, but one or more pockets of air/fuel mixture explode outside the envelope

    3. Valve Noise = Noise made by the valve train when running either normal or excessive.

    From your description you are getting a spark knock or detonation caused by lugging the engine. It would probably help if you used a higher octane fuel. Also try not to lug down the engine when driving.
     
  5. Jan 17, 2016 at 12:32 PM
    #5
    07amocat

    07amocat Well-Known Member

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    Have you ever had your valves adjusted? I'm pretty sure they are a shim in bucket style so you would remember paying for it. That being said, valves usually get tight, not loose, but it might be worth while to pull your valve cover and check your valve clearance.
     
  6. Jan 17, 2016 at 1:30 PM
    #6
    Lester Lugnut

    Lester Lugnut Well-Known Member

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    There is no shim -in-bucket for the 4.0 liter engine. You replace the entire bucket if adjustment is needed. I posted the PDF for 4.0 liter valve adjustment in another thread a few days ago.
     
  7. Jan 17, 2016 at 5:16 PM
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    07amocat

    07amocat Well-Known Member

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    Same concept. The method to adjust them is the same.
     
  8. Jan 17, 2016 at 8:14 PM
    #8
    Lester Lugnut

    Lester Lugnut Well-Known Member

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    Not quite. For a shim-in-bucket setup, the cams remain in the engine. For the 4.0 liter 6 cyl engine, the cams are removed to get the buckets out.
     
  9. Jan 17, 2016 at 8:31 PM
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    sparkystaco

    sparkystaco Well-Known Member

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    But the OP says he has a 2.7 not 4.0.
     
  10. Jan 17, 2016 at 8:41 PM
    #10
    07amocat

    07amocat Well-Known Member

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    Yes, but its the same principal. You measure the bucket instead of the shim, but its the same idea.

    And the 2.7L is a shim in bucket.
     
  11. Jan 18, 2016 at 6:32 AM
    #11
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    That would be correct for the Older 2.7 and 2.4 engines ( 2RZ and 3RZ ). For the modern 2.7 liter engine 2005 and up 2.7 2TR-FE uses hydraulic adjusters and has no shims or buckets .



    Below is the 2.7 Liter 2TR-FE setup:








    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2016
  12. Jan 18, 2016 at 8:17 AM
    #12
    Lester Lugnut

    Lester Lugnut Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the clarification on the newer 2.7 - yes - my 2004 2.4L 1st Gen used shims.
     
  13. Jan 19, 2016 at 12:57 PM
    #13
    Chief1959

    Chief1959 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    In answer to "don't lug the engine" and get higher octane fuel, the vehicle calls for normal 87 octane. Lugging the engine is not intentional, it's just when you're in 4th gear and slowly accelerating prior to downshift. That being the case, you should still not have valve noise. What it looks like now is that the timing chain is stretched/worn, tensioner is all the way pushed out; there is slack in the chain. That being the case, it would seem that timing advance or spark advance through acceleration is a problem.
     
  14. Jan 19, 2016 at 12:59 PM
    #14
    Chief1959

    Chief1959 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Oh, and higher octane fuel didn't help. Tried it. See previous post. Looks like the timing chain is stretched/worn.
     
  15. Jan 19, 2016 at 8:53 PM
    #15
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    Well with 239K Miles it may be stretched a little. Get a new timing chain installed...
     
  16. Jan 20, 2016 at 4:17 AM
    #16
    Chief1959

    Chief1959 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yep, getting it done here in a week or so. I will update this post after complete. Thanks Jimmy
     
  17. Jan 20, 2016 at 8:24 AM
    #17
    127.0.0.1

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