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Engine won't turn over

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by MaybeJustThisOneMoreMod, Sep 5, 2017.

  1. Sep 5, 2017 at 9:44 AM
    #1
    MaybeJustThisOneMoreMod

    MaybeJustThisOneMoreMod [OP] Active Member

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    I appreciate without seeing my vehicle this will be tough but ...

    I have a 2012 DC TRD Sport. Over the weekend I installed LEDs in all the interior lights. When I went back to my vehicle a few hours later and tried to start it the engine would not turn over. There is however a rapid clicking.

    I don't have a volt meter to test the load on the battery. The headlights dim in time with the rapid clicking.

    I tried jumping the battery off a 2014 Jetta for 5 minutes - no joy.

    I also noted that the keyless entry isn't working properly. It won't lock the driver's door and it wont unlock the rear doors.

    Any ideas what's wrong? Could the LED install have caused this, or is it coincidence?

    Thank for your help
     
  2. Sep 5, 2017 at 9:46 AM
    #2
    MaybeJustThisOneMoreMod

    MaybeJustThisOneMoreMod [OP] Active Member

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    I forgot to mention, I switched all the LEDS back to the original incandescent bulbs - this had no effect.
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2017
  3. Sep 5, 2017 at 9:46 AM
    #3
    Rons01TRD

    Rons01TRD Well-Known Member

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    Check your battery cables, my 4Runner did the same thing this weekend and I loosened up the cable clamps, cleaned off the corrosion and retightened them and it started right up. Good luck.
     
  4. Sep 5, 2017 at 9:49 AM
    #4
    Tex-Tac

    Tex-Tac Well-Known Member

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    TEXAS
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    2008 Tacoma V6 PreRunner SR5 Extended Double Cab Desert Sand Mica
    Installed Overhead Compass and Temperature Display along with outside temperature sensor and wiring; LED lights reverse backup; LED license plate lights; Added GTA Bluetooth Audio kit to stock radio for iphone audio; Spare tire steel braided air hose extension connection to rear bumper; Installed new headlights along with new bulbs PIAA H4 XTreme and for fog lights PIAA H10 XTreme bulbs. Installed new hood with "hood-scoop". Installed Predator Side Steps. Replaced front chrome grill with customized color matched (Desert Sand Mica) grill with added TOYOTA lettering (also in matched color), installed and secured tailgate anti-theft devices. Also installed a new external TPMS monitor for all 4 tires.
    Well if your truck was not experiencing any problems prior to you installing those LED's, I would start off by first removing all the LED's that you installed.

    Then check the battery voltage and see if it is fully charged?......If no then get it fully charged.....If yes then try starting the vehicle.

    If it starts with no problems and also if you don't encounter any problems with the keyless entry then you know for a fact that those LED's that you installed is causing you problems on your truck.

    Those LED's that you installed, are they exactly for your style and year of Tacoma?
    It's very important that they are!

    If it's not the LED's then something shorted out your starter or battery, relay, etc.?
     
  5. Sep 5, 2017 at 11:13 AM
    #5
    MaybeJustThisOneMoreMod

    MaybeJustThisOneMoreMod [OP] Active Member

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    Thanks for the replies - gonna check the voltage afterwork today - already put the incandescent bulbs back.
     
  6. Sep 5, 2017 at 11:20 AM
    #6
    FinnJ

    FinnJ Well-Known Member

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    TRD SC, UCON, CNG conversion, RC 6" (lifted 4"/3" air suspension) w/FOX 2.5, 315/70R17 Duratracs, RECARO seats, etc.
    Dead battery.
     
  7. Sep 5, 2017 at 2:29 PM
    #7
    82ND_AAF_TACO

    82ND_AAF_TACO Well-Known Member

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    +1 for batteries. If it's not the batteries- then I'd start T/S starter system. If you manage to start it- I'd test the charge to make sure the Alternator is charging properly or is something stays on that's slowly discharging the batts while the truck is off.
     
  8. Sep 6, 2017 at 10:12 AM
    #8
    MaybeJustThisOneMoreMod

    MaybeJustThisOneMoreMod [OP] Active Member

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    Ok an update - I ran a volt meter over that battery and it was 10.33

    I jumped it off a bigger engine and it started up after 5 minutes no problems. I drove it around for about half an hour although wasn't really thinking about it, and so had headlights(necessary) and radio and air con on.

    When I got out it was at 13.00 and dropping - but that was some surface charge.

    This morning it wouldn't turn over and it was at 12.00

    Options I can see:
    1) I didn't run it long enough to get it up above 12.4
    2) there's something in my truck draining the battery when it's off
    3) battery is done

    I'll check it after work to see what it's at. I guess if it is below 12.00 then either something in the truck is draining it or the battery is done.

    But if it's still at 12 - maybe I just didn't run it long enough ... thoughts?

    Any thoughts on the LEDs - coincidence? Ran the battery down with the door open too long?

    Thanks for your help everyone
     
  9. Sep 6, 2017 at 10:18 AM
    #9
    82ND_AAF_TACO

    82ND_AAF_TACO Well-Known Member

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    Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but your battery could have the proper voltage- but don't have enough cranking amps.
     
  10. Sep 6, 2017 at 10:22 AM
    #10
    zonian

    zonian Well-Known Member

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    ^^^
    This. I'm on my 3rd battery already.
     
  11. Sep 6, 2017 at 10:28 AM
    #11
    82ND_AAF_TACO

    82ND_AAF_TACO Well-Known Member

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    If your alternator is charging- the you potentially have something that is staying on. Do you have a system or something? If you do- your amp might be on.
     
  12. Sep 6, 2017 at 10:34 AM
    #12
    Toyko Joe

    Toyko Joe Here for the pictures

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    Did you leave the cabin light in the ON position? :notsure:
    Your truck battery should be between 13.5-14.5 volts when the truck is running if you have a good alternator and bad battery.
     
  13. Sep 6, 2017 at 11:18 AM
    #13
    MaybeJustThisOneMoreMod

    MaybeJustThisOneMoreMod [OP] Active Member

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    I'm pretty sure it was around 13.8 with aircon, lights and radio on, but don't trust my memory - it certainly wasn't 14.7

    I definitely made sure everything visible was off and unplugged when I left it last night.

    I too suspect it's the battery - I'm going to continue to update the thread for future users.
     
  14. Sep 6, 2017 at 11:19 AM
    #14
    MaybeJustThisOneMoreMod

    MaybeJustThisOneMoreMod [OP] Active Member

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    Already from a 2012 - wow.
     
  15. Sep 6, 2017 at 11:54 AM
    #15
    zonian

    zonian Well-Known Member

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    Knee Deep in the Hoopla.
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    Raptor 4" Black Oval Nerf Bars, Hard-Wired Uniden RD9XL Radar Detector, Anytime Fog Light Mod, 12V Power outlet in Bed, Tailgate Anti-theft Mod, Distinct Offroad lightbar, 2 Hella Micro FF Driving Lights, 2 Hella Micro FF Fog Lights, Rear Slider Window Opener
    Yep. The 2nd one, lasted only about a year.
     
  16. Sep 6, 2017 at 11:58 AM
    #16
    Rons01TRD

    Rons01TRD Well-Known Member

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    You can have 14 volts but .01 amps. Just because you have 12 volts doesn't mean your battery is good.
     
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  17. Sep 6, 2017 at 12:00 PM
    #17
    Tex-Tac

    Tex-Tac Well-Known Member

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    Installed Overhead Compass and Temperature Display along with outside temperature sensor and wiring; LED lights reverse backup; LED license plate lights; Added GTA Bluetooth Audio kit to stock radio for iphone audio; Spare tire steel braided air hose extension connection to rear bumper; Installed new headlights along with new bulbs PIAA H4 XTreme and for fog lights PIAA H10 XTreme bulbs. Installed new hood with "hood-scoop". Installed Predator Side Steps. Replaced front chrome grill with customized color matched (Desert Sand Mica) grill with added TOYOTA lettering (also in matched color), installed and secured tailgate anti-theft devices. Also installed a new external TPMS monitor for all 4 tires.
    This was leading up to my next question.

    Is the battery you currently have in your 2012, the original battery?

    If so then it could very well be that the battery has out run it's battery life and time for a new one? (2012-1017= 6yrs. old battery coming up on 7 yrs this coming 2018!)

    As for myself, once the battery pass'es 5 years old I replace it with a new one regardless of it's condition (but again, that's just me).

    As someone previously posted, it may show that you have 12 volts (which just about all vehicle batteries are) but it maybe falling short on the proper amperage (current) once the vehicle sits?

    Also keep in mind that the alternators job is to keep the battery continously charged but again, once the vehicle is parked (over night, long periods of time, etc.) the voltage will decrease slowly and drag the amperage down with it but the voltage will pickup once the engine has started again but sadly not the amperage if one of the batteries cell or cells are dead.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2017
  18. Sep 6, 2017 at 12:21 PM
    #18
    Shelf Life

    Shelf Life Well-Known Member

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    This^^ It sounds like you have a power drain going on somewhere, especially if it's your third battery already. Dome lite, mirror light, camper light, Etc. Radio problem maybe?
     
  19. Sep 6, 2017 at 12:57 PM
    #19
    MaybeJustThisOneMoreMod

    MaybeJustThisOneMoreMod [OP] Active Member

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    Surely it was still under warranty?
     
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  20. Sep 6, 2017 at 12:58 PM
    #20
    MaybeJustThisOneMoreMod

    MaybeJustThisOneMoreMod [OP] Active Member

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    That wasn't me - this is my first battery - but it's still likely dead - I'm just stuck at work right now.
     

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