Engines keeps going go to Limp Mode

My engine went into limp mode yesterday. Codes P2111 & P0505 have popped up. I cleaned my throttle body and intake last night, reconnected battery and she came out of limp mode. I then drove down the same trail I did the previous day and truck whent right back into limp mode. I checked throttle body again and it’s as clean as it is when I took it off from the previous day. Does anyone know about this issue? It doesn’t make any sense to me.

 

The P2111 (Throttle Actuator Stuck) means the ECM is trying to move the throttle plate but is unable to so if nothing is physically blocking the throttle plate and the throttle body is clean then likely it's an internal issue with the throttle body.

The P0505 (Idle Control Malfunction) means the ECM is unable to maintain desired idle speed which would make sense if the throttle is sticking.

 

What previous post wrote. But importantly, are all the electrical connectors to this throttle body clean, and tight? The pins and sockets in connectors not all bent, and distorted? Same fault codes pop up?

 

Could be this...

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2016-tacoma-in-limp-mode-fixed.659782/

 

Yep, my first thought too.
Another reason why I paid for a 10 year warranty on my truck yesterday.

 

Not ideal with how I have my fuse box secured. You think a wire could’ve been getting pulled or something.

 

So far the codes I’ve gotten are:

P0122
P0505
P2135
P0123

 

^ lol

 

So you think that’s definitely the problem lol. Just run through all the fuses, replace them if blown and just make sure thier isn’t any pulling going on with the wiring to the fuse box?

 

The whole engine bay is a problem.
And I don’t mean that to be offensive.
No fender liners and a jank fuse box mount??????!

 

Yea I was looking to get the most up travel I could get with a 35 so just decided to cut out the wheel wells entirely lol

 

It’s a desert truck and doesn’t go through much mud or rain. My plan was to mount my fuse box/ abs system/power steering to the engine cage I bought from te designs. Many people have cut out the wheel wells. I just noticed a 40 amp fuse for battery charging was blown so I’m rapping that now and then go from thier.

 

There are 2 carbon tracks inside the throttle actuator and the throttle pedal. Every vehcile I have worked on that has drive by wire goes through this at some point in its life. There is a 5 volt reference signal that is fed into both the pedal and the actuator and one track starts at 0.1v and goes to 5 volts and the other track starts at 5.0v and goes to 0.1 v. If the correlation between the 2 readings is off, meaning that there is a 1.0v reading on one track its counterpart should show 4.0v, if it does not it sets a fault. You need a graphing multimeter to diagnose this as the readings happen so fast that a regular multimeter wont show the isuue.

 

Interesting, and you’re based over in glamis? My plan was to come out thier for Halloween but can’t seem to get this problem sorted.

 

where does the battery mount?

 

Batteries mounted in Backseat, made sure all connections are nice and tight. I’ve resecured my fuse box and cleaned up the area and secured everything much better. Thier was a 40amp fuse blown for the battery charger, some lines had exposed metal that was able to touch other things and I also found a wire that fell out. All is in tact now. If it’s still going to limp mode I’d say its gotta be the broken intake plenum valve, I’ll check that next if I’m still having issues.

 

That's 2 year old truck....

 

I know.

On one hand I'm like, dude has a 2 year old truck and butchered the hell out of it.
But on the other hand I'm like, It's his truck. It's 2 years, and he can do what ever he wants with it.

I can see it both ways. In a small way, I'm kind of like OP.
If it's mine, I'm going to to what ever the hell I want with it. IT'S MINE.
But I also try to avoid doing things that cost me time and money later.

 

I agree with you on both. But damn.