Everything to do at once/one alignment - front end maintenance.

It took a few hours. Probably could have done it faster, but I wanted to be real careful. I'm also kind of a pyro, so I let it burn more than I probably needed to...

I think I said for just the LCA's, but pretty sure I torched the uppers, too. I did it like 5-6 years ago...

Pretty sure this isn't the thread I used to do mine, but it can get you started. I did a better job of cleaning up the inside of the insert than this guy. Once I got most of the rubber burned out, I used a dremel with a wire wheel to clean up the rest and "polish" the inside.This guy looks like he tore up the inner surface pretty bad (IMO). I know that's not the surface that really moves, so it's probably fine.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-replace-upper-lower-control-arm-bushings.280375/

 

Thanks for that!

 

I'll letcha know if I do!


I will have to try that burning method! I think I am going to go with the 555 as it's only $30

For extended brake lines do I need a male to female like this? And do I just need one? Or do I even need one? https://www.marlincrawler.com/brake/brake-line/extended-braided-brake-line-male-female

 

That looks like the one, I posted a link (below) to the All-Pro ones below, they look the same (cheaper even)... Depending on how high you end up, and how much you plan to stretch the leafs (off-road articulation), you might not even need it. I'd wait until you get your rear end set up. Unless you're looking for a silly excuse to upgrade to braided lines... That's what I tell my wife: "this won't fit, I "need" a new one..."

Here's a link to All-pro, for their extended brake lines. They're male-female.

 

Haha same here!

Great! I know with my blocks the brake line was streching so I'll probably get that. Only reason why Im gonna go with Marlin is I have a gift card there. Going to get my bushings and brake line!

 

Do I need new springs? I updated the OP with new prices if I needed a new leaf pack. Raises my total to over 1k if I want my front struts assembled

 

Last question before ordering.

I am planning on running about 120ish pounds up front (winch and small valence bumper). I was reading up on 5100s and how they work best with oem coils with lift coming from the shock rather than coil. Or 5100s at OME coils with lift being provided from the springs rather than the shock.

So to save $175 I was thinking of keeping my stock coils and use the lift settings of the 5100s to raise the front. Would this be okay later on if I add weight?

 

I'm planning on doing the same thing on my truck, the stock suspension is super saggy at almost 160k.

I just got 5100s for the front, with new upper bushings, and will be using the stock springs as I am planning on sticking with the stock bumper. I don't want the suspension to be super stiff, as it is my daily work truck.

I ordered Dakars for the rear, but I got a pair of 5125s which are valved slightly lower than the normal ones. I don't off-road much but I do have a shell and keep 200lbs of tools and stuff in the back at all times.

I'm hoping that I can match the height in the front with the adjustability of the Bilsteins, and save a little money at the same time. If I'm not happy with the ride in the front than I will just buy a preassembled set of OME struts and 881s and be done with it.

 

Yeah I am unsure about the front because I probably wont add a winch for awhile. So I'll probably go with 5100s with stock coils, and when I do add a winch I can jack up the setting of the 1500s to compensate for the weight. Anything will ride better than my hockey puck up front right now.


edit. I might get the 881 coils actually because of all the pressure my coils have been under with that spacer... hmmm

 

Purchased so far

OEM ubj from tw member - $65
Moog 4 tie rods from tw member - $55
Lowrange 5% off sale:
Nitrocharger front shocks - $287
OME 883 - $159.01
OME leafs - $345.54
Rear Nitrocharger - $203.96
Exhaust bracket - $11.47
Leaf bushings - $30.98
Brake bracket - $8.55