Exhaust manifold crossover gaskets prep questions

I'm getting ready to attempt replacing this gasket. I was also advised by @Andy01DblCabTacoma that I'd most likely be doing the right side as well, so I did get a gasket for each, as well as the cat one just in case.
I also purchased a variety of tools. Tried to cover all the bases. We know how that can go though

Looking for help clearing up my confusions. I get that at the very least, the goal is to not snap a stud. As far as warning signs, am I looking for anything different than removing a nut from a bolt? For instance, is the stud spinning a bad sign? (Hasn't happened, just the only thing that came to mind).
So next let's try best case scenario & see if I've grasped this (its the thru stud part that I do not believe I have encountered yet)
Best case - nut breaks free & then the stud gets tapped out or do we leave the studs in place & actually pry the flange to clear the studs?

 

Don't use 12 point socket wrench.
6 point only
Multiple heat and cool cycles with penetrating oil before wrenching
All I got good luck

 

@Kristi with a K I am curious what has you tackling this project? Is there an issue with the exhaust gaskets currently?

 

Yes. The one pictured has a leak.

 

Best cases scenario
Nut comes off (lefty loosie)
Manifold damn near falls off in your hands when you pull it.
Reverse the process after cleaning mating surfaces.
Get back to us with what really happens.

 

First step is disconnecting both sides of the cross over pipe.

6 point sockets are a given.

If the studs turns out that is good. Better then breaking.

The manifold is pulled away from the studs that remain in place.

I always have extra studs and new nuts!!!

The correct female torx for the studs

studs that do not turn out clean with a thread chaser not a die

If you have access to a Oxy- fuel torch it really helps.

Good Luck!!

 

Just to clarify, the ones I am attempting are the pipe/flange gaskets.

My neighbor stopped over to find out what "interesting" adventure I was up to today. My typical response, "Oh, ya know." Anyway, he said that the pipes should be able to separate just enough to "slip" out the old gasket between two of the studs & "slip" in the new. I still can't picture how this all happens with the studs in place....

So this is what has really happened thus far.
Took me a while to figure out what of all the different tools I got would work. Turns out it's one I had already. A swivel ratcheting wrench & a pipe. Got three broke free so far. The remaining are going to be a little more tricky due to positioning. I tried one of these with the pipe only a little ways up the wrench. It slipped & my forehead met the UCA.

 

Nice work- those nuts are a pain to even get a socket on most of the time.

And yes, I did find that I didn't have to separate the crossover pipe completely. I just disconnected the rubber exhaust isolators/mounts and pushed the cross over pipe back enough to slip the old gasket out, and put the new ones in.

 

Here I thought you were doing the exhaust Manifold Gaskets. The correct term should have been cross over pipe gaskets

You might need to disconnect some of the exhaust hangers to drop things enough.

getting all the old gasket off can be a pain.

Permtex # 2 works great for exhaust and holds the gasket in place.

 

If the manifold studs start turning I would stop, and reverse (tighten). I pulled 2 studs out and the threads did not seem that bad but I dropped the manis off when I did my valve job and the tech said he had to repair them.

What I noticed is that the nut (in my case ) will start to loosen very easily (could even spin some by hand) but then near the end of the stud it will get tight again. Here you should stop and turn back in and work it in and out, perhaps adding more penetrating oil. I think what happens is the exposed end of the stud gets corroded.

The drivers side top one is very frustrating to remove with hand tools because such a limited range of motion for the ratchet - booster in the way. A power ratchet would make short work of it.

 

Ha-ha! That’s why I put “this gasket” with a pic. Figure I’d cover it that way & then someone (happened to be you) would let me know the correct wording…. Thank you!

 

I see six exhaust nuts in that pic. Good work!

 

Here they are! No more head wounds either. & yes, that drivers side one was a PITB! &, unfortunately I took the other two off first, which made that top one even more difficult. Live & learn…. That’s the idea anyway

 

Edit - Disregard question below. Light dawned on marble head. For some reason I was thinking you were referring to something in the bay.... All good. In fact I just ordered a few isolators from Toyota. Mine are in rough-ish shape. The place I order from has free ship over 75.00, so I figured I'd add them in with the gaskets.

Would you please coach me on what & where the rubber exhaust isolator mounts are?

 

I have one of the gaskets out. @Bivouac put that using sealant is helpful. All over the gasket? Sparingly of course.

 

Sorry - I missed this. I know you're probably past this, but for future clarity. I completely disconnected (1) and (2) and that gave me wiggle room.

I've never heard of putting sealant on the gaskets. I did not do that. I just inserted the new gaskets and reassembled everything using new nuts.

 

I just disconnected the two front isolators. Well, one since the other hanger broke & I wire tied it. Got myself a welder a bit back. I need to get practicing with it. Anyway, I discovered a handy trick to getting the pipes to separate. I had considered going ahead & changing out the gasket ahead of the cat as well. Wondered how that’d go since I had already removed the nuts from the crossover. I got at the rear nut with extensions & started to pull on it & everything moved a little, so proceeding with that gasket was a no go. However, I took a peek & sure enough the crossover ones now had a decent gap in each. Removed the two (one) isolator & gave that nut another go & now I have peeeelenty of room.

 

Just a thin film on both sides other wise it just pushes out.

Hint wear gloves on it will wear off you skin in a few weeks.

 

It is the go to on old exhaust systems in our part of the world. Why if any part goes the whole system gets replaced from the cross over pipe to the tail pipe

That are hard to get sealed or in places you don`t want to do over again next week.

 

Time for some welding lessons to bad Gas is a tad expensive.

I now drive less then 100 miles a month.