Experienced wiring help needed

so my PLX wideband sensor can take the place of the stock o2 sensor as well. How can I hook this up to the ECU or stock pin out?

See step four.

Thanks.

 

I think I found it. Can anyone confirm?


Page 122 for 2004 auto.
Abbreviation definitions at the bottom of the doc.

Labeled AF1+
E8 pin 14 Violet is the input
E8 pin 26 pink is the ground. I think.
Labeled Air/fuel sensor bank 1

In the truck side connector to the O2 sensor there is a violet, pink, and two white wires. I believe the two white ones are heater wires.

I need to know what The pink wire does. It’s labeled AF1- on the 2004 spreadsheet.

I need to know what to do with it because the PLX came with only one wire to take the place of the factory O2

And what should I do about the heater wires/white wires. They don’t seem to interface with the ECU. I don’t know

Any advice would be appreciated

https://people.well.com/user/mosk/images/Early_Tacoma_ECUs_v2.pdf#page36

 

I believe the pink wire is the ground.

But it runs the the ECU? Weird.

I believe this is how the wires on the stock 02 upstream sensor correlate to the harness on the vehicle side wires.


O2side. Vehicle side.
Blue. Signal. Violet
White. Ground. Pink
Black. Heater. White
Black. Heater. White




I’m pretty sure the violet wire is the wire I need to run the Grey wire from the wideband module to.

I just don’t know what to do with all the other ones.

 

@mechanicjon

 

I’m also trying to figure out how to remove the wire from the stock pin out....I need some pretty small tools and don’t know where to get them from. I suppose Walmart would have a set of jewelers tools.

 

I have the wiring diagrams for this. GL Im not familiar with that gauge.
Are you sure you have a narrowband and not a wideband stock?

 

I thought all of the stock O2 were narrowband....

 

No some were wideband. You need to figure that out first.

 

How do I figure that out?

 

Shit. I think it’s a wideband. I guess I could have just gotten a OBD2 reader and been done with it.....

 

Not entirely sure

 

Now I don’t know. If I got to autozone and put my information it it gives me wide bands and narrow bands......I’m so confused. I was just under the impression that it was the ECU that only read the narrowband.

 

I forgot that we talked about this a while ago. Why are you trying to replace the stock AFR sensor? Just so you don't have to put an extra sensor bung in the exhaust for the PLX?
I've read that the ECU is pretty picky about the O2 sensors, it might not like the Bosch LSU 4.9 as much as the Denso OEM. No experience firsthand, I just run my PLX setup as a standalone.

One (not very) easy way to tell what kind of stock setup you have - hook a multimeter to the sensor leads and turn the truck on, if it reads ~0.5 volts its a narrowband, if it's ~2.5 volts it's a wideband.

 

Well I ordered the PLX for the wideband. Took it to an exhaust shop and he wanted to charge me to take the cat out to weld the bung. I told him I’d bring it back off the truck. I read the directions and it said the PLX could take the place of the stock narrowband as well. So I just bought a flange to put the wideband into the stock location. Seemed easy enough.

Well it’s not...


EDIT: getting that cat out is a bitch with all the rust. Some kind of weird nuts on there and I think I stripped one.

 

But if my stock AFR is a wideband would it be as accurate with a OBD2 reader than a standalone?

 

My understanding is that the OBD refresh rate is too slow, I know with the Scangauge it only updates every couple seconds. That's fine for most stuff, but when I hit WOT at 8 psi I want to know what is happening in real time. My reasoning is let the stock sensors do their thing with the ECU, and use a separate system for monitoring, datalogging, etc.

You can get a no-weld band clamp for the AFR sensor, just have to drill a hole in the exhaust and clamp the band around it, thread the sensor in, and you're good to go. Pretty tight up there in front of the upstream cat, but it's another option instead of have an exhaust shop screw around with it.

 

Yeah, biggest reason I tried to do this was because I couldn’t get the cat off. It’s welded shut with all that rust. I really didn’t feel like getting up under there with a blow torch. I can probably weld a bung no problem.......the 7th injector is coming in tomorrow. I’ll probably have to put it off until Sunday.

 

The AEM wideband stuff is pretty much all I would run. More than convenient and already calibrated.

 

Yeah, well the PLX is pretty much the same. Just install and you’re good to go....reason I went with PLX was because I got a AFR and boost gauge for $220...and I can add a temp gauge for like $80, all in one guage or more. Even has a phone app to display all that info.

 

Oh I think I know what gauge you are talking about now...