Extended length abs wire?

I haven't jumped it but fully drooped/turned either direction I have inches of play in it. Limit straps are limit straps. Regardless what I'm doing. I have maybe 300-350 off road miles on the front LT kit. Many full droop and full comp cycles too.

If I allow my suspension to fully droop without a limit strap and let the uniballs bind (the cv won't even turn) it starts to get mildly tight. But nowhere near ripping out.

You can see full droop there is plenty of slack in the wire.

 

The bigger spring is stretching it while turning?

 

@erok81 as soon as I get my new wire I'm going to route it like yours and and adjust the limiting straps. And hopefully it will not leave me in the middle of the trail stuck in 2wd! I wonder how different the total chaos kit is from yours.

 

I have Total Chaos +3.5 and Maxtrac spindles. It gets pretty tight at absolute full droop, but with the limit straps set it's not too tight

 

That's be the truck won't go into 4wd with a faulty sensor or wire.

 

What replacement wire are you guys buying? Can we not just buy a longer wire and replace the old with that?!

 

In the cable world lingo, this cable is not shielded. There is no metallic shield preventing EMI ingress. If there was I would expect to see at least one of the ends have a metal connector or a drain wire connected to the shield which is then attached to the metal connector or the frame. This allows the captured EMI to be shunted to ground. This is possibly an impedance controlled twisted pair. But I can't determine that unless someone can get me a part number. Based on how I think an abs sensor works, the resistance of the cable is probably important. Which means the length of the cable is also important. There is likely a lower resistance per foot cable out there. But I need a part number (and not the Toyota part number).

 

I supose I should update my issue huh

So I tore open my abs cable, cut it, soldered it back together with an extended chunk I got for free at the pick and pull (just cut it out) and boom... Problem solved! No more abs bs. No buying a cable, no sensor rewiring. Just cut your dam cables and splice in a new one. Now then... I am a recertifier solder tech in the navy... So I did a quality solder job, Flux, isypropal alcohol cleaning, 4 stages of heat shrink and environmental shielding over it all once done. BUT this did solve my issues. And can most likely solve yours. My.02 is to teach yourselves how to solder. The right way. Makes electrical issues much easier to fix... The right way.

 

@zakattak thank you for your service. I can appreciate your recent comment. I am a product manager at a cable manufacturer on the west coast that supports many military applications. That was my guess. If the cable was that sensitive they would done more to protect it.

 

Okay I tore mine installing my LT kit with maxtrac spindles. How did you do it or you willing to do another one?

 

@1nonlygarcia are you cable of soldering? Or understand crimping wire? You probably tore it well before full droop. I am on stock length ucas/shocks and I am close to a tight wire at full droop. What length LT do you have?

 

I tore it because I dropped my spindle on the installation. I have the 3.5 race series from TC. As soon As I seen it I just took the driver side off as well.

 

Yep, order of operations is important...sorry didn't mean rub salt in the wound. Haha

You probably need an additional 6 inches. Head to the pick a part and cut a set off if a truck. That way you don't have to worry about the sensor termination, only the splice. A mechanical crimp splice is not ideal but doesn't require specialty tools.