Extended travel cv axles

Haters will say it's shopped!

 

Okay, that makes sense, I can get this lift so that it’s around 2.5-2.8 inches of lift. Comes with everything(diff drop, bump stops, leaf springs, carrier bearing drop, drake lines, bilstiens all the way around)



So with new CV axles, and UCAs you think 33s will be able to flex pretty good?

 

You can only get so much flex from an IFS setup.

Not familiar with that leaf pack.

Diff drop, pointless.

Upgraded bump stops are always a plus.

Bilstein 5100 shocks, great budget-friendly shocks.

 

Could I put these on my 2009 access cab 4x4 automatic 4WD if I only have a leveling kit and am running the stock, Billsteins? I'd like to rebuild my originals, but I need to take a long drive next week and want to replace my driver's side this weekend. My leveling kit is only in the front and doesn't add much lift, only levels it out.

 

If they make them for your vehicle yes. Buy them from Oreilly or Autozone.

 

Does anyone know how to remove the extended travel cv axles? Mine don’t have the big collar with groove like the OEMs. I’ve got to pull mine to change a seal. I wouldn’t appreciate any help.

 

Just yank it out by hand and it'll pop out

 

Tie a strap around the middle of the axle and yank it out.

 

I got it. Thank you all for the guidance. It was exactly what I needed. Have a great weekend.

 

I’m running a 2-2.5” lift with 5100s and SPC UCA’s, I’m at 170k miles on original thrashed CV’s. Is it worth going for the Extended travel or sticking with the basics?

I’m looking at going with Napa (hard to beat that warranty) open to any and all suggestions and tips

 

Do you offroad? If yes, reboot your OEM axles and do the bootslide mod. If no, then you can use the Napa axles.

OEM axles are the strongest axles, aftermarket ones (besides RCV axles) are weak.

 

I know this is thread is a couple years old now but I have a question for you. I can see that your Extended travel cvs were rubbing on your king coilovers creating a bit of a divot in the axle. 1) Did you notice the rubbing/binding and just continue until it self clearanced? 2) Do you have a diff drop installed?
I have just installed new extended cvs on my truck. my lift is sway-a-way 2.5" coilovers set to 3" and jba upper control arms. Went for a test drive and to my disappointment it rubs when turning

edit: its kind of wild that i cant find any info on this. also wild that the manufacture states its for 0-4" lifted vehicles. Nothing about what type of lift

 

The CV axle only rubbed on one side and there were two main reasons for it -

1. Someone at the apartment complex ran into my 4R when I was grabbing the mail, specifically hitting the side where the CV axle rubbed

2. It took a few days to get it in for an alignment after the above occurred

After the alignment, I never had the rubbing issue occur as it never happened prior to the small accident.

I did not have a diff drop installed and would've never installed a diff drop as I see them as pointless. I also ran stock upper arms.

I'd say if you're running into this issue to ensure you have your misalignment spacers oriented correctly (if applicable, I installed the Kings myself) and to get a proper alignment done. The "type of lift part" isn't so much the issue though as they can't account for the size shock body/spring one will be running. The whole lift thing has more to do about the CV axle's ability to travel without binding allowing the end user to fully utilize their suspension during articulation.

Hope that helps.

 

Wow thanks for the fast reply! Thats very interesting Ill have some things to check out in the morning. Maybe the stock uca may pull the spindle back far enough to remedy the situation but id really prefer to not uninstall the shiny red jba UCA's. I know for a fact that the misalignment spacers on the coilover are mounted correctly to maximize clearance from the cv. Thanks for expanding on the type of lift vs the actual abilities of the cv to articulate. At this point im looking for a remedy that doesn't involve removing any of the parts that were there before the upgraded cv's. Ill report back what I find but feel free to throw out any other suggested remedies. Due to my lack of ideas at the moment im thinking maybe if i installed the diff drop kit that is still sitting in the box, maybe it could lower the cv enough to clear the coil. i am aware of the negatives to clearances and drive shaft angles. im just at a loss and dont really want to spend more money on oem size axles when this cheap diff drop i already payed for could possibly be my fix to run these cvs.
thanks!