Extra bolt, timing belt/water pump reassembly help

Hey guys so I'm not much of a mechanic and I am now putting back my truck together and have a bolt that I'm not sure where it goes. I tried to follow instructions carefully and labeled every part but obviously this one didn't get labeled and I'm having a hard time finding it anyone have any ideas? Pictured below number 8 12 mm bolt


Thanks in advance.

 

Also, trying to figure out my timing, I have the cam shafts TDC. Crankshaft is close but notch on pulley is slightly to the right of the zero. Do I need to adjust?

 

When I did mine a coupla years ago, the timing notches were lined up pretty much as yours are. Not exactly against the marks. That was after 4 rotations of the crankshaft. I went ahead, finished the job, and started the engine. It ran perfectly.

Not sure about the long bolt. It probably goes somewhere into the AC or the PS brackets that secure the AC and PS pumps to the block, or maybe one of the adjustment bolts??? Sorry I can't help you there. If you have a parts explosion diagram showing that area, check it out. I don't think the bolt came from the front of the engine.

If you haven't already done so, turn the crankshaft 2 full turns and recheck the marks. If they are aligned as they are in your photos, you are good to go.

 

So don't worry about the notch being slightly off the 0 mark eh? I was about to pull the pin on the hydraulic tensioner but wanted to check and see if yall thought this needed adjustment first!

 

Wait for another person to post his opinion, just to be sure .

 

Haha don't worry I'm searching for this damn bolts home!

Just spoke to a friend who echoed the above as well though

 

I'm a perfectionist so I took everything off to reinstall

I really appreciate the resource here! Thanks for all the help. Chime in if you've seen a bolt like that before

 

Is it for your AC compressor? That's where my money is.

 

Water pump fan bracket bolt?

 

Still scratc hing my head on the bolt.

Also upon rotating the crank shaft 2 revolutions I noticed the cam shafts are still in alignment but only TDC after the crank shaft is to the right of the zero mark. I'm goping nuts yall. I'm hoping this is a game like horseshoes and hand grenades?

 

I only aligned my camshafts and crank markers when I did mine, then I rotated the engine several times to ensure they were right. If you get the cams in sync with the crank, you will be fine. You will know for sure after rotating the engine a few times with a break-over bar.

The 3.4 V6 is a non-interference engine, so get it to a point where you can crank it and see if it starts smoothly.

That bolt may be a belt tensioner bolt, or an AC mount bracket bolt as others have mentioned. But, I am not sure what all you removed.

 

Negative that's a 14mm, my random is a 12mm. Got belt on, now just trying to find a home for this!

 

Some of y'all are some winners and I am a loser. It was the air compressor after all. I had a hard time seeing but it was one of the bolts that connects from the side.

 

Alright well I'm done, she starts and backs out of the garage just fine haha. So here's what I hope is my final set of questions:

1) How do I know I did everything right? Drive it, wait for something to go wrong?

2) I added a different type of coolant and didn't flush the old. O'Reilly's said the kind I got was universal Peak and would mix with anything, is this true or do I need to flush and refill?

3) I drained a little transmission fluid doing the job, checked my dipstick and it looks ok, should I still add some? I would be topping off with some stuff that says it will work with Toyota on the back....

Thanks guys yall are awesome.

LC

 

The Toyota purists will say you should've flushed it and only used Toyota coolant. And not to mix. Since it will cause you're radiator not to last as long. I've heard it's just as cheap and easy to change your radiator out than it is to do a complete coolant flush. You'll hear from some people soon!

 

If it started and runs smoothly and you have your thermostat in the right position (jiggler valve) and you have torqued everything to spec and used Loctite on the idlers (if you removed them), then you shouldn't have to worry about anything really. Make sure your harmonic balancer bolt is torqued correctly. I saw a guy on here who did not do this right and he ended up ruining the threads and taking a chunk out of his crank... rebuild time.

 

I did remove the idlers and did not loctite them. Blue loctite? I tightened them all to specified torque?

Harmonic balancer is torqued correctly but it sure was a pain!

 

None of the write ups I used to guide me through this mentioned the loctite at all...

 

The one I followed mentioned that the bolt when removed had thread locker on it, so he replaced the bolt with blue thread locker. I didn't do that I mine, but I only have 2,500 miles since I did it.