Extremely loose steering can’t find problem

I’ve changed upper ball joints , CV axles, sway bar links, and lower ball joints. Got an alignment and was good to about 2 weeks then my steering was feeling really loose but I remembered I hadn’t changed my tie rods so I switched those out and my steering in my wheels feels worse than before when I hit bumps going over 30 it’s feels like my steering comes completely loose. Thought I’d ask the forums before I bought a steering rack . I’d appreciate any helps as I’m feeling pretty lost right now.

 

How are your control arm bushings (Upper and Lower)?

 

How are the alignment cams? Did you mark them after the alignment?

Steering rack bushings?

 

I will check all of what you guys tell me cause if I’m being honest I’m learning as I go. But the bushing on the uppers are good haven’t really checked the bottoms. I’m not sure what the alignment cams are but when I put the new tie rods I got them as close to the old ones as close I could and I’m not quite sure how to check the steering rack bushing. (I know I’m a noobie)

 

The alignment cams are the lower control arm bolts- they are eccentric and allow the lower arm to be adjusted into alignment (camber and caster). The tie rods, as you mentioned, are adjusted to set the toe.

Sometimes when you get an alignment, the tech sucks and doesn't torque down the alignment cams, and they end up moving around.

Plenty of threads on here on steering rack bushings. But have someone turn the steering wheel while you look under the truck at the steering rack. If it slides back and forth before the wheels move, you need to change the bushings.

 

I will check that here in a bit and will update.

 

Just checked and the rack had like 3-4 of an inch of wiggle room when turning back and forth I wouldn’t say it’s before the tire but I’m assuming there shouldn’t be any wiggle at all

 

The rack shouldn’t move at all.
Probably bad bushings.

 

I’ll get those fixed next week when I can and update. I really do appreciate the help I love my truck and hate seeing it stuck to the driveway

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YywcR0E9bM4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4Hhl225E8A

 

When I got mine, I used the Polyurethane bushings. No problems since.

 

After alignment it was good for 2 weeks? Check for bent cam tabs

 

Unless you know how to do a string alignment, setting the TRE's by thread count is only a ball park and you'll need to get another alignment. Toe in is a huge factor in tire wear and handling. I would definately go to another shop though because . . . .

3 or 4 inches? That is huge, see below. If your rack is moving that much they should have spotted it right away, and I'm surprised they would even be able to get a decent alignment out of it. Even worn shock bushings can make an alignment only approximate (don't ask how I know LOL)

With the original OEM rubber bushings you might get 1/4" or so of movement, which by design makes the steering a little "softer." When I did mineI went with the Energy Suspension red's (blacks are more stiff) and it feels a little snappier in tight corners. Here is the test on my truck before I did any work, starting at around 25 seconds is the rack test and you can see it's about 1/8" to 1/4" movement, but that is while it's off. When rolling it shouldn't move a lot.

https://youtu.be/Dzbf4vUGR8k?t=27


The larger question is why your rack is moving that much. If the rack bushings are gone, there will be a reason. A common one is an oil leak or sloppy oil changes can cause oil to blow back on the bushings. Petroleum products accelerate rubber deterioration.

In any case to replace rack bushings, you will have to remove the sway bar to move the rack rearward enough to get the bushings installed so pick up some sway bar bushings as well, maybe sway bar links if they are too far gone. Try to do it without removing the lines, that can open a whole new can of worms (also don't ask how I know.)

A lot of people run without the sway bar but you should probably sort out the other issues before making that decision. One thing you will need to remove the links without damaging the boots is a set of these, there's not a lot of space to get behind the link to lock them in when removing the nut.