Fabtech, ProComp 6" lift or more. Pictures

Got the King CO's on today ! Sorry this is the only picture I took today but here are the final specs - 6" stroke just over 11" of travel. The overall height of the CO is a few inches taller than the PC and is tall enough to install a dual rate set up if I want later. It requires zero preload to sit at 8" of lift, 28.5" extended and 22.5" collapsed length.

In the photo it looks like there is preload on the coil but there is none that is the static setting they were shipped at with a 600lb 14" coil. So just to be clear - no pre load to sit at approx 8" lift height because of the custom length of the shock body. Nearly the entire body of the shock is threaded because it is just tall enough that a dual rate set up can be installed.

As Scarlett4x4 pointed out a few pages back the limiting factor with stock length arms is simply uniball bind extended and collapsed. In my case bind to bind is a hair over 11".

Just have to play with setting the bump now...and replacing my steering rack bushings :/

 

im gunna need to remember this for future reference. Because i paid so damn much for my pro comp shocks, this will be my next purchase once i ruin these current coilovers. im impressed

oh and hows the ride????

 

Did you remove the spring and cycle the suspension with just the shock? Even with my Icons I run out of room from the Uniballs binding before bottoming the shock itself. I just don't see where you are getting your numbers with stock length arms.

 

Yes, you are exactly right. The extended and collapsed measurements of 28.5 and 22.5 are the actual binding points of the uniballs on my truck that you are speaking about. Here is the exact quote from the King order :

center of lower eyelet to top of mounting surface extended is 28 5/8"
center of lower eyelet to top of mounting surface compressed is 22 1/2"


When you place an order for custom CO's they require you to remove your CO's and cycle the suspension to full droop and full compression to ascertain the extended and collapsed lengths. They will not accept the build without those exact spec's. When Dirt King installed my UCA's and LCA's they cycled and took the measurements for the order.

As I am typing this I am realizing that when I set my bumps I will set them to cushion before the ball cup binds so that will subtract from travel obviously. I am thinking of adding straps to keep the UCA cup from hitting the coil at full droop too.

I wonder what the difference is between our CA's ? Could there be a difference in the actual uniballs or even the cups maybe ? Or what about your up stroke does your shock limit your up stroke maybe ? Or are you going full bind to bind ? You're getting 10" right ?

 

The ride feels great, amazing difference between the PC CO's

 

You won't need straps, a bushing in between the factory stop and mount is plenty unless you want to spend more money. I'm getting about 7.5 inches of actual wheel travel. That has been measured every which way possible. The only way to get more out of it is to extend the uppers and lower arms and I'm not doing that to a drop bracket. With mine I could adjust bump by taking some out of it but the risk was to great for me to do it. I'm not going to test fate under the weight of the vehicle while off road and possibly break a uniball upper.
I think your numbers will be very close to mine and the only difference is that you sit at 8 inches of height and don't have to preload to get it. I made the pre built for db Icons work for me by lowering the truck. You custom built kings to get the same result but with the height you need to clear 35s with no rubs. In the end, you just have more ground clearance but I feel our travel numbers will be very close. I also think that you are putting the RR line in a bad place under the UCA. Its hard to tell in that pic but at full droop you are stretching it. I can only assume that pic is without bump.
Please, by all means post pics with a tape to show me how you got around the limits of factory length arms. I've had the front end of my truck apart so many times and without ripping that xmember out and replacing the arms, I'm not getting anything more than MT.

 

I really don't understand why there is a difference but I feel like I get 7" of droop just to get the tires off of the ground when jacking it up ? I am leaving for a road trip after work tonight but when I get back from vacation I will work on getting some photos, we did the install on my lunch break yesterday and have zero free time to take any extra photos etc.

The remote resi hose is actually designed to route that way by King, it does not have a kink in it or any pressure on it at full droop. The length of the hose, the "clock" of the fitting and the location of the remote resi mount is all Tacoma specific to give it that downward bend to route under the UCA at full droop.

 

Cool man, I'm just saying that the pic you provided doesn't give much detail. These are just observations I have made that I would hate to hear that you broke something, especially with the cash you have in it. We have two different builds with the same objective and we both spent a ton to get it. As long as you are happy, that's all that matters. I'm sure the ride quality is a night and day difference. Just wait until everything settles and you get off road. I would also suggest keeping a can of Tri Flow in the truck. My upper and lowers start to make a ton of noise when they get dry.

 

For those of you looking to make the most out of your DB when it comes to wheeling and ride quality you really have two options and it comes down to what you want to spend to get there. You can go with a pre made Icon or king but to really take full advantage of the shock you will have to reduce the preload which will lower the front of the truck up to one inch to really feel the difference. You can compensate by running a taller tire like a 33.8 without trimming or a 35 with some trimming and a cmc. A custom leaf pack will be best with this choice at 5 inches. Now you could also do this in stages. You could go to a smaller block in the rear until you could get new leafs. I also would recommend going with a heimed UCA but the tubular should be able to be aligned. The prices could vary, but this is what I feel is an inexpensive way to do these mods.

Icon 6" coils no RR: 1200
TC tubular or Heimed UCA: 700-900
Icon 2.0 to 2.5, 6" ext travel rear shocks no RR: 350-600 (note, I did lose about 2.5" of droop because I went with a 6" ext travel on a 5" pack)
5" leaf pack (choose your flavor) I did Deaver at around 800

You do not need to change the LCA, that was something I chose to do because of the way I wheel my truck. If you did go that route they run around 1800.

This is my set up for the most part and I did all of the labor with the help of some good friends. I'm sure Evenflow could provide his numbers upon request. I'm more than happy to offer up any advice regarding what I've learned to anyone that is already in a DB lift. I still feel that a 3-3.5" MT to LT lift is the way to go if you love to wheel in my personal opinion. Regardless of my personal opinion all that matters is your happiness with your truck whether you go hard on the curbs or in the dirt.

Edit: there are other options for all of these parts. I chose Icon, Deaver & TC because of the great customer service I received not only from SDHQ, but when I called these manufacturers during my prep and planning.

 

Awesome info! I know this has been brought up numerous times, but the heim joints vs standard tubular UCA's for the DB lift. Has anyone been able to get alignment in spec without heims? My problem with the heim joints is finding an alignment shop that would actually be willing to remove UCA's to properly align the truck utilizing the heim joints.

 

You know that when I was faced with this decision to dump the extra $$ on heims I was told that the tubular should be easy to align at the right shop. With the DB lifts you have to trim the inner and outer tie rods to properly align it and there was no adjustment to my heims at all by the alignment shop or myself when I installed them. TC states that the larger lift need them due to issues that are created when lifting that high, but I'm yet to see it. I've been meaning to go get an alignment and planned to this month. I was thinking of going to Firestone for the lifetime alignment deal but I just don't know if I trust them to do it. Ive used a lwcal shop called network because they specialize in 4x4s. I will follow up with you after I align again and see if they get it within spec without touching the heims again. In fact, I still have my last sheet before I took the pre load off the front end when I got it aligned if you want to see it. This was when I was waiting for my leafs from Deaver.

 

About to pull the trigger on a deal with billys & ebiachs; not going to go 6" so i'll have the ebiachs up for grabs in about a week or two.
Shoot me a PM with offers. They have about 25k on them from what he told me.
He won't separate them so I had to buy both.

 

Finally got it all installed and ready to rock

 

^^Nice!!

 

I just ordered the 6" bds performance kit. I havent ordered wheels and tires yet but im sure they will be 18" wheels with 33" toyo mt. Like everyone else says this sight is addicting and I love it. And thanks everyone for all the info!!

 

18s and 33 inch toyos are where its at

 

I want 1st but I don't wanna do spacers

 

17s^^

 

I can't seem to find the extended travel shocks for the rear. Any ideas where I could find them?