Fabtech, ProComp 6" lift or more. Pictures

The race series LCA from TC has zerk fittings for the bushings, I'm referring to the uni ball that needs to be lubed (especially on the lowers)
I will also recommend that you be very careful with those zerk when installing. Make sure the threads are clear of powder coat and position them facing out so you can easily lube them with the wheels on.

 

That's interesting! Never knew they were extended.. So how much lift are you getting out of them? Beats having the big coffee can spacer till CO's. Would running extended springs be to risky also? Then I could really ditch spacers all together. I'm looking for about 7" of lift on the front. I just want the control arms to have a slight angle just to gain more clearance

 

Running the longer shocks isn't going to hurt anything as they were designed for the db lift. They are just longer so you don't have to run the std coilovers and the 4" top hat spacer. If you are wanting that much lift just run 2ea 1/2 top plate spacers on each side. You will also need to get the longer bolts to replace the std ones in your top hat on the coilover so you can run the spacers. Im right at 5 3/4 front lift with my set up running just one 1/2 top plate spacer on each side and a 1/4 on driv side for the taco lean. You need to remember the 4" and 6" basic kits for bds and zone in the front are the same except on the 6" kit they give you a small preload spacer that goes on top of your coilspring between the top hat. The top hat spacer on both kits is identical.

Here is where I got mine at.
http://www.cumminsperformanceparts.com/rcdf4be5e122t0.html

 

Delrin is still a good idea for the LCA's, it is an upgrade over poly, stronger and no need to lube.

 

Perfect, thanks for the clarity! Definitely better option than the standard 5100's then. I guess I'll just order a cheap spacer for the top and run the pre load also. Only conflict is how much does that pre load spacer add as far as lift?

 

Just run the longer 5100's and the top plate spacer. I would take out that small preload spacer to help give you a better ride and just run the top plate spacers.

 

Well looks like I'll be adding that to the list...lol I'll probably get a few different sizes so I can get it exactly where I want. Thanks for the help! Stoked I can ditch the big spacer from the start

 

Just laughed so hard I swallowed my chew.

 

78,000 miles.....front, driver wheel bearing is shot.....$106 for the part.....going in tomorrow....

 

Why don't you do it yourself yo. You are old you should have all the mechinx background and tools.

And old man power to get the bolts off.

 

I am doing it myself young Sky Walker. The wheel bearing module is $106.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=Search_C0055_1447055_1655&pt=C0055&ppt=C0337

 

Lol

 

I'm sure the 1.25" wheel spacers helped kill the bearing early. The price we pay to be badass mall krawlerzs!!

 

You on 35 or 33's?

Wheel spacers, tars, and bumper are probably the factors.

 

33's now.....and yes the added weight on the front didn't help.

 

Wheel bearing in.....forgot the rotor dust shield and had to take all the bolts loose again. Dammit all!

 

I took those shields off because I was tired of rocks and mud getting stuck in there and making a ton of noise. I also bashed one on a rock and it started to bind on my caliper when it got hot.

 

I thought about it Jon.....the shield had a few small rocks wedged in it. And the shield was bent.......rubbing the edge of the rotor. I had to put some hammer love to it.

 

Holy Shite ! Just saw this on the LT thread, TC for the win ! Just kidding