Fabtech, ProComp 6" lift or more. Pictures

I meant further down. All DB kits have to drop the diff. I was reading somewhere about the differences between some of the kits. The RC kit looks like the dropped crossmemebers do not drop as much as some of the others, and they drop the diff more. Like it actually hangs below the crossmember a bit.

 

Ironically I am not too worried about welding the crossmember back in. I thought the frame issues did not apply to 2011s?

 

Ah, we're on the same page now.

 

These frames are all the same design...they installed plastic plugs to mitigate water/salt infiltration on the boxed areas but its still a concern. Especially if you live in PA/NJ because of heavy road salt.

Sounds like you have your mind made up, just trying to keep others from making the same mistake I made. I wasn't worried about fixing the cross member either when I bought my DB...installed on the truck with only 300 miles on the odometer...then I realized how much of a mistake it was after seeing others with mid travel etc and realizing how much better performing and the ride was without the drop bracket. It was taken off after 30k + miles.

 

My mind is far from made up. I just know that I am NOT going LT. But then I look at your build and think maybe 2" TC LT kit is not too bad. But, I need new rims. 20 x 9 stick out too far as it is now.

 

I'd just go mid travel, +2 opens up a whole bunch of other hidden expenses.

 

I probably will end up doing a MT set up. I have been reading and researching for a long time. Had the truck 2 years and still have the spacer lift that was on it when I bought it.

 

This thing is a money pit so far, and I have barely done anything. I usually tend to over do things, and my plans change over time.

 

I've had a DB lift for two years. No regrets. (RCD 5") Previous truck I had an OME 3" lift. I like my DB lift much better.

 

What manufacturer is your DB? And what coilovers are you running now?

 

RCD. No coilovers. The RCD lift includes bilstein front shocks that are 5" longer than stock.

 

I know I am the black sheep amongst the many DB owners.

I have the Fabtech 6" DB lift with dirt logic shocks. I was like you @stairgod doing as much research as possible, trying to make the most informed decision. I HAVE NOT cut anything on my truck with the exception of the inner plastic fender well back towards to cab. I took off a out 3.5-4 inches of it and removed my mud flaps. Other then that I have had no reason to do the CMC. I did though follow Fabtech's advice on wheel and tire size. I'm running 17's with -4.5 backspace and 315/70/17 DuraTracs. One of the reasons that I do not rub is the fact that Fabtech puts a turn stop on the spindle to prevent this. Which is the only thing I do not like about the lift kit as doing this also limits your turning radius. (Think two point turns). With that said the DB lift is great for me as it maintains my factory suspension geometry and helps to prevent some premature wear on other parts that you may see in a mid travel setup. Ultimately it is going to be a matter of personal preference as to what you need the truck to do and and how you want it to do it. I will say I've never found anything I wasn't able to do in my truck yet.

Some pics below

 

Was just checking out your new build Jon. What specifically made your decide to not do a DB lift again?

 

Why did you go hybrid MT/DB? No build thread? Was wondering what the hell you had to do to fit 37s.

 

Because LCG and travel.... Other than breakover clearance there is no benefit to going up that high. All it does is make the off camber shit really hard on your asshole. It will be puckered everytime that back end pops up and you start teetering up that high.

I unlocked the true potential of my suspension this time around. I hit exactly what I want for my truck and what i want to do with it. I can honestly say that I never felt this happy with my DB lift even after I dumped 7k to make it the best it could be. I really have done it right as far as MT setups go.

Disclaimer:
Although there are a few guys left on here that have made the DB work for them but it costs a lot. The BDS has the better options out the gate for the money.

If you have a 4x4 and really want to unlock its true potential the MT setup cannot be beat.
If you are not going to use the truck and go for the look complete with tire shine and 20" wheels. The DB will live up to that expectation.

 

I had a CJ back in the day with 12" of lift and 35/15.5 Swampers. I had it off camber all the time. I may still have some residual pucker from those days..lol. I do not plan on doing with this truck what I did with the CJ. The 20s are probably coming off very soon. My Nittos are worn out now, so I have to make up my mind very soon about what I am doing. It will all happen at once.

 

Back in the day with SOA rigs the big thing was go high. You can keep the CG low and focus on that droop. Keeping those locked rear (or even open diff) tires on the ground where they belong

 

Pretty sure articulation was an unknown word back then. I miss that CJ money pit.

 

In the early 00s Teraflex introduced LCG lifts to the TJ world I believe. Thats when the mentality started to change.

IFS front, solid axle rear and long wheelbase is a whole new animal over your Heep days