Factory Denso 180 Amp Alternator upgrade

Pulley info will be deleted shortly! Bad cross reference showed 6 rib on some of the larger alternators. These alternators come with a 7 rib belt.

Here are the brief early musings of upgrading the 2GR-FKS to a Toyota factory original 180 amp alternator. Several late models of Toyota and Lexus that also utilize the FKS version of the 2GR are equipped with this unit. What makes it appealing is that not only is this available as a brand new OEM built piece, but that the unit is contained in the next larger size alternator series. Everything is larger in order to deal with the increased output, it's not just a hot rodded small body.

The Highlander and Sienna will likely be the main sources, though there is another I need to look into. The part number for this unit is 27060-0P420. Used units run from $100 - $200, and new can be sourced for a bit above $600. The piece I sourced came with an six rib overrun damper type pulley. It will, obviously, need to be swapped for a 7 rib pulley. I will supply part numbers for OEM and aftermarket pulleys as they are verified. Two other differences exist between this 0P420 and the smaller stock 100/130 units that will prevent a straight bolt in. Fortunately, they both extremely minor. The first is the mounting bosses for the factory wire harness, a small bracket should suffice here... and second is the angle at which the wires connect to the alternator. Stock wires mount straight into the rear, the 0P420 take the wires at 90 degrees. It appears as though the wires have can the insulating tape removed in order to reposition for proper connections.

More info and pics to come. For now, here is the 0P420.

 

Great work. Which trucks have the lower rated alternator? Subd

 

Great work! Sounds like an upgrade myself and a lot of other guys would do. Thanks

 

Happy to share and glad others can benefit. As far as I'm aware, the NON tow package equipped trucks have the smaller 100 amp unit.

 

My 2019 TRD Sport came with a 130 amp alternator and Class IV towing package.

 

Not sure why I would need this?? I'm thinking the 130 is just fine.

G.

 

My 2TR shows the 27060-0C170 (100 amp???) as stock with the 27060-0P350 as the 130 amp alternative.

Just curious if these are the same as the 2GR?

 

If you were running a dual battery setup and/or lots of electrical accessories such as hazard lights (like cop cars and tow trucks), stereo amplifiers, winch etc etc then a high amp alternator would be helpful.

The 130 amp alt should be enough for most folks.

 

Thanks. Got it.

G.

 

I run two batteries when I pull my camping trailer around. I think the bigger alternator would be nice to have. My Jeep came with a 180 amp alt.

 

If you run into output vs rpm curves for stock or upgraded alternators please post them up. Been trying to see what output we get at cruising rpm...

 

Food for thought. The 180a sienna alt uses 27415-0P030 for the pulley and has a clutch built in it. Looks like it screws on to the rotor shaft.

Our pulley 27411-31210 sits on the rotor shaft with a nut on the front holding it in. No clutch built in the pulley.

 

I would go with the OD style pulley. It was designed originally with the 180a alt. I think it even has a torsion spring on the inside that is supposed to absorb engine vibrations that help prolong alt. and accessory drive life.

Subscribed. Interested to see end result.

 

Here’s a 270amp 14.8V

https://sdhqoffroad.com/products/16-current-toyota-tacoma-3-5l-270-amp-xp-high-output-alternator

 

I've never been a fan of the hotrodded aftermarket items... over the years I saw and read about too many Mean Green alternators that simply did not last. That unit does look purpose built, though... Still wary of using them for vehicles that need to start every day. Factory Denso is just so damn good!

 

Yeah I just read some bad reviews on them. They do put out 14.8V which is needed to fully charge AGM batteries, at least from what I’ve read.

 

I’m curious. I thought the ecu regulated voltage output. So I’m assuming they adjusted it at the alternator side.

I had a couple of mean greens fail. The rubber seals on the bearings failed and led to bearing failure after only 3000 miles and 2 years of use.

 

That’s what I’ve been trying to find out. If it’s ECU controlled then a large Voltage alternator doesn’t matter

 

I'd be more interested in a sealed alternator
Since water getting in them etc fucks them

 

Pretty sure you're right.
There was a guy I remember making some sort of harness to fool it.
And I know there's a diode replacement fuse you can buy for the 2nd gens that bump up the voltage.