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Factory Denso 180 Amp Alternator upgrade

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by Jowett, Mar 14, 2019.

  1. Jan 31, 2022 at 1:55 PM
    #61
    awesomeandy013

    awesomeandy013 Well-Known Member

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    @Jowett This mod still working out? Anything odd since install?
     
  2. Jan 31, 2022 at 2:11 PM
    #62
    Jowett

    Jowett [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have yet to run this in the truck... it's been in the barn for 2 years. It does bolt up, the side connector needs to be modified so it won't contact the frame during hard hits. I hope to get some things completed this spring.
     
    JManning1423 and awesomeandy013 like this.
  3. Mar 10, 2022 at 10:48 PM
    #63
    Roberto Paulson

    Roberto Paulson 2017 Tacoma SR5 number 1 bazillion

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    To go to the 130 amp, first check your Alt fuse in the fuse box. On a Tacoma with tow package, the Alt fuse is 140 amps. If you blow that fuse, your Taco is dead in the street.
    To replace that fuse, you have to disassemble the fuse box, because that fuse is bolted to the conductors coming from the alternator, and going to the battery. If you go beyond 140 amps, you need to run a separately fused or on-line circuit breaker 0 cable from the alternator to the battery. In fact, you'll need to do a big 3 wire upgrade.
     
  4. Mar 11, 2022 at 7:39 AM
    #64
    Jowett

    Jowett [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Roberto, a big thanks for pointing out these very basic but required mods! I get so wrapped up in the basic physical bolting in part of the swap, that mentioning these very necessary requirements were neglected.
     
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  5. Mar 11, 2022 at 9:28 AM
    #65
    danojeno

    danojeno Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the heads up on that fuse. I got the "big 7" wire upgrade that I have yet to install.
     
  6. Aug 10, 2023 at 11:39 AM
    #66
    Strekcorp

    Strekcorp Member

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    I understand this is an old thread, but did anyone get around to trying this out and running it? I spoke to Tony at mechman and asked why they were not producing an option for the third gen. He seemed concerned that any alternator that makes greater power than the factory option (for third gen) would essentially not be recognized by the LINBUS/CANBUS system. You would have the power on hand but no way to access it without bypassing the fusebox with a single wire turn on alternator, but that there is a high probability that you will start getting erratic behavior from the ECU and start throwing charging codes, or maybe even lose function of other systems despite power being available.

    I am just a hobbyist, and am learning as I am going, so does this make sense? Or would (as Roberto mentioned above) you just need to run an additional power wire from the alternator to the battery and the additional charge would self distribute (maybe wire in some kind of resistor)?

    Alternatively, is this second wiring path (alternator direct to fusebox) just in case your draw is greater than the 140 amp fuse, you blow the fuse and have the ability to continue to charge the battery?
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2023
    NoOne likes this.

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