Factory finish

So a good friend of mine ceramic coats vehicles and owes me a favor since I built an engine for him. So hes paint correcting my truck and ceramic coating it for the cost of materials. I can not believe after seeing before and after paint correction how bad the factory finish is. My truck is black, 2019 with 1,100 miles on it. The amount of small scratches and blemishes is crazy. It looks great until you see what it could look like. Here is a pic of the difference. Glad I decided to have this done, the difference is pretty crazy

 

I know the paint is very soft due to being water based. My finger nails scratched my indentation for the handle. Got rid of my black 16

 

Yeah a little clay bar, compound, and polish based on the paint needs goes a long way to make the vehicle look amazing.

 

You also have black which shows every little imperfection in the paint. Looks nice though!

 

Can we see this without the flash or lights in the frame. How long did you wait to have this done..

 

I didn't take a picture without lights on it. I'd say in the sun light it would be very obvious.
Not sure what you mean by your question. Like how long did it take?

 

To get your ceramic job done?

 

To do it right it probably takes 15-20 hours start to finish. The actual coating installation only takes a few hours. Prep takes a lot of time

 

That’s why I never buy black color vehicles.

I’m too OCD to be happy with how black looks after some little wear.

 

Looks good. I lightly mywet sanded my finish, polished it with a lambs wool pad and a finesse pad then hand glazed it with 3m imperial hand glaze. Then finished it off with some jet seal. That is real old school paint correction and I did it when the truck was a few months old. I didn't have any issues other than some orange peal.

 

When I bought my truck it was kinda gloomy out so I couldn’t really tell. After like a week I saw in the sunlight how many tiny scratches were in my black paint.

 

You wet sanded a brand new trucks paint? With what grit? That may be the "real old school paint correction" but factory clear coats these days are extremely thin. I guess if you got away without burn through it could be ok, but now your clear is thinner, some people don't even like to BUFF the factory clear in fear of removing too much material wet sanding seems drastic.

 

Yep, done it several times over the last 30 years. There is more paint on the trucks than people think. They read things and then think that it's true. It has some thickness to it. I don't burn paint, all edges were fine lined taped off. Also we measured the with a mill gauge. I have done this enough to know when to stop. I would love to rear clear it one day but probably never will. I will say the finish is pretty hard now, also I have wet sanded fresh paint the very next day and buffed it. I used some 13 micron, high speed buffing and finesse cream. The finish is slick. I ain't scared,it's only paint and can be made to look better. I just don't believe all the hype over this ceramic coating. I'm sure it's good but I have always had great results with a handful of off the shelf waxes and sealers.

 

The first time they wash your vehicle for your delivery is when they put swirl marks are on your vehicle...unfortunately.

 

How is that? I understand that it can happen but mostly after several washes with improper supplies, equipment and knowledge. I seriously don't think you can get swirls from one wash job.

 

Totally possible with one wash, use a dirty towel or wrong towel. Bam swirl or scratches.

 

Only people with black trucks will understand....
People with the 16 and 17's with the 202 Black will KNOW.

 

Dealer car washes are usually very dirty and 100% swirl the darker colored cars.
It’s like a drive though shell car wash, that gets muddy cars sent through it 100+ times a day.

I used to work for a Toyota stealership and I wouldn’t let em wash any of my family/ friends cars if thy came in for service.

 

Looks mighty great! Good job! If done right by an experienced detailer - wet sanding followed up with micro buffing just levels the high spots (peel).

I leave my OEM paint as is, just some hand polishing with micro fine polish followed by Power Lock/

$20 Collinite 845 Insulator Wax-Easy to Use Carnauba+Polymer Wax Sealant-High Gloss Shine+Durable Hydrophobic Beading & Long Lasting Paint Protection for Cars/Boats/Trucks/RVs & Motorcycles (16 fl oz)

Collinite 845 to protect it. I need all the paint I can get for those inevitable Wyoming pinstripes! (brush scratches)

 

Well I would not be letting the dealership wash your vehicle prior to delivery and it's probably been washed serval times before delivery if I were any of you. I didn't see any in my finish but some orange peal, that's all it needed.