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factory steering rack - where to buy?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Sundowner, Aug 3, 2015.

  1. Nov 24, 2015 at 8:54 AM
    #21
    FirstGen Jer

    FirstGen Jer Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the insight. Ya I have been doing some research on here. And some have rebuilt them, but it sounds like somewhat of a headache, with a need for specialty tools. So now I am just on the hunt for the best option for replacment. There are mixed reviews on racks and experiences. Just cannot afford to pay for a OEM one. I have heard of some guys finding some for around $250.
     
  2. Nov 24, 2015 at 9:19 AM
    #22
    geoyota760

    geoyota760 Allergic to pavement

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    5.29 Nitros Bilstein ICON Kansei BFG
    Some decent options here:

    Partsgeek

    Several reman options with core charges, and the option I went with new for $357, no core charge, and free shipping.
     
    FirstGen Jer[QUOTED] likes this.
  3. Nov 24, 2015 at 9:33 AM
    #23
    FirstGen Jer

    FirstGen Jer Well-Known Member

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    @Laxtoy I have heard of the rack slide on the 99's. As I understand it the later model 01-04 racks where re-designed to fix that problem. I am wondering when I order a new rack if I can interchange the newer design rack (01-04) for my 99', so I don't have to deal with that faulty rack slide anymore? Wondering if anyone has some knowledge on this? I had read a thread on it a few weeks ago but cannot find it now. @Geosense thanks. I will be doing some research more on a solid replacement with warranty. How long have you had yours on your truck? Any issues?
     
    Boone Wesley likes this.
  4. Nov 24, 2015 at 9:50 AM
    #24
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    99 XCAB V6 MT TRD
    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    So I guess you saw this https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rack-pinion-service-tools-tips-dry-wordy.312600/

    It's true many folks don't have the time or resources to tear into a rack. However there are a bunch of inferences in the above write-up that are easily overlooked. One of which is that the "rack end seals" are simple and straight forward to replace. It is the control valve work that needs any kind if really special tool.
    The main issue with the end seals is why they failed. Aside from guide/bushing issues the usual culprit is water/dirt getting inside the boots. This damages the rack shaft causing the seal failure. A new seal will not cure a damaged or rust pitted shaft.
    A worn guide (new or old style) and/or passenger side rack shaft bushing can contribute to early seal failure. If that's the case and the shaft itself is OK then new end seals with a new (new style) guide and bushing could be a viable option.
    You mentioned the fluid level being "fine". Slow leaks have been known to just be "slow leaks" and remain constant for years, more of a nuisance than anything else. As long as the fluid level is kept up no other internal damage will occur as a result of the seepage.

    Just to make your choice harder.

    All
    aftermarket rebuilt racks are hit and miss including the current web favorite "Rack Doctor". They all use aftermarket Chinese parts.

    New OEM racks are only available from Toyota dealers averaging $550.

    All
    aftermarket new racks are Chinese knock offs with very questionable quality/quality control. Any more than $235 + for one of these is overpaying.

    If buying a rebuild, make sure you get a later model with the new style guide. There is no guarantee unless you specify.

    A used rack with the new style guide is a viable option and not a bad option at all. The only issue there is finding one.
     
    MindFork likes this.
  5. Nov 24, 2015 at 10:01 AM
    #25
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    59.4 Miles, 56.67° NE Of Moab
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    99 XCAB V6 MT TRD
    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    There's the rub. This goes both ways. Historically in an exchange situation they just take yours and grab one off the shelf with no regard for "year".
     
  6. Nov 24, 2015 at 10:17 AM
    #26
    FirstGen Jer

    FirstGen Jer Well-Known Member

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    Thanks you for taking the time @Dirty Pool to supply the info. Yes your thread was the one I read. It gave me in sight on maybe a option to replace maybe the "easy" stuff (bushings & seals). From what I am gathering I just need to get under the rack and have a look to see how far the issues go. If I understand you correctly, if the shafts looks to be ok. I can just replace the seals and bushings and boots...maybe ITR's and it should be my only issues with rack? But I would also want to install the newer slider as well obviously. I have been searching threads and have noticed a lot of guys went with Detroit axle racks. Supposed to have a lifetime warranty and made in Michigan? But I'm guessing they're just assembled there and parts come from China from what your describing with these aftermarket racks. Also I have not heard of rack doctor. I will do some reading on them thanks. As far a my leak go's, I have a small tear on both sides of the rack boots. It leaks a drop or two when I turn the wheel to its end each way. From what your saying though of water and dirt getting in through the tears in the boots. It is found to eventually "eat away" at the ITR's and the shaft as well correct? Again appreciate your help and knowledge
     
  7. Nov 24, 2015 at 10:21 AM
    #27
    FirstGen Jer

    FirstGen Jer Well-Known Member

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    Ok that's what I was wondering, so I need to specify to them I need a rack for a "2004" tacoma or would that not matter? Or would they know the difference in racks with or without the newer shaft slider?
     
  8. Nov 24, 2015 at 10:30 AM
    #28
    FirstGen Jer

    FirstGen Jer Well-Known Member

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    I have seen them on ebay as well they seem to sell "new" ones for $269 as well on there. Is this what you have on your truck? How has your experience been if so?
     
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  9. Nov 24, 2015 at 10:55 AM
    #29
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    59.4 Miles, 56.67° NE Of Moab
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    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    Yes on the torn boots.
    "Detroit Axle" looks to be just the latest offering for the Chinese knock off following A-1 Cardone. I have no proof of this but I would have a hard time believing that the cost of all the tooling etc required to manufacture a rack from scratch could be justified in the USA given the age and the #'s of Tacos crushed by Toyota (frame rust thru's). Now that being said, it is entirely possible that some US firms are importing the Chinese racks and giving them a "going over" for some level of quality control. This seemed to be evident with the initial importer "AAE". Folks were seeing evidence of "work" being done, specifically in the area of the ITRs. This could have been part of a final assembly operation (install ITRs in country), just speculation there. Seems not worth the trouble.

    Specifying you want an 04 may or may not initially get you the newer style. I have seen it go both ways. It would give you some recourse for an exchange but that becomes a huge pain. The best bet would be to talk to or trade some emails with your vendor of choice.
    Keep in mind that all 95-04 racks are the same other than the guide. I assume you can eyeball the difference between the two guide styles from the outside. If not I will be adding some new pics to the write-up in a few mins.
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2015
    FirstGen Jer[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Nov 24, 2015 at 11:18 AM
    #30
    FirstGen Jer

    FirstGen Jer Well-Known Member

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    Ok yeah that was my next wonder...if the racks where all the same expect for the slider on the newer ones. As far as telling the difference between the two. I will check your photos that you will be adding. It definitely made sense and put it into perspective for me in your write up showing the problem the old slider cause. Thanks
     
  11. Nov 24, 2015 at 11:19 AM
    #31
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    They are up, right at the beginning.
     
  12. Nov 24, 2015 at 11:41 AM
    #32
    FirstGen Jer

    FirstGen Jer Well-Known Member

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    Cool, just re-read it. Sorry but maybe you might know but I am trying to find a thread or write up on how to just re-place the seals and bushings and slider? I remember seeing one with a guy who did it using all-thread and washers to press in the new seals? I think that's how originally found your thread.
     
  13. Nov 24, 2015 at 1:47 PM
    #33
    geoyota760

    geoyota760 Allergic to pavement

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    Just installing it as we speak...so I will let you know any issues....

    974993366cd977058d2963a9e5a92ef7_2c2fddc87b27df38dfe8ba730b3f215da96f08b3.jpg
     
    FirstGen Jer[QUOTED] likes this.
  14. Nov 24, 2015 at 2:23 PM
    #34
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    99 XCAB V6 MT TRD
    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    For just the guide this is pretty good. It is really just a matter of unscrewing the cap or "adjuster", plucking out to old guide with a magnet and sticking the new style back in. Of course there is some cleaning involved plus the final adjustment of the preload.

    There could be some confusion with the term "bushing". There are 3 rubber rack mount bushings holding the rack to the frame that are commonly replaced, lots of talk about that. Inside the rack is a single plastic bushing that serves as the bearing for the passenger side of the rack shaft. It's inside the rack "end stopper"
    that also secures the passenger side seal. You just pluck it out and slip in the new one.

    Rack "end stopper" and bushing.
    ITRandBUSHrs2_zps679ca33d_372d39fba91340d745b1b5ae555c1abd71b35929.jpg

    The 2 rack shaft seals are not very tight and can easily be removed/installed with the motive force of a hammer instead of a press, even just a rubber hammer. Just be careful and tape up what ever you use as a driver to prevent scratching the inside of the rack body. It's all in the write up.
    Also nice to see is the factory service manual "exploded view". Handy for the order of the seals spacers and o-rings inside. I'll put that up a bit later, it's happy hour now. ;)

    Here she be.
    EXPLORAK1_zpsnzxzfgcf_941da4a45e5118675d361bafcf6e5f23f4e23015.jpg
    EXPLORAK2_zpstuu9aalx_a624788d7ddb44426a06b18941cdce6868fc327e.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2015
  15. Nov 24, 2015 at 2:51 PM
    #35
    2000tacobro

    2000tacobro Well-Known Member

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    I got this one mine went out two weeks ago so far so good

    image.jpg
    Cardone select
     
  16. Nov 24, 2015 at 3:53 PM
    #36
    Laxtoy

    Laxtoy Dog is my backseat driver

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    A lot of good info being shared, but most specifically the thread Dirty Pool listed is the info I followed for swapping the rack guide and I think is the most valuable info in this thread. http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=160576&highlight=steering+rack+guide It's very cheap and very easy compared to pulling a rack, can't stress that enough. Pulling the rack is a complete bitch, breaking loose 100+ ft/lb hardware on your back is not something i like doing often. Then you gotta bleed it and should get an alignment after. More money, more work.

    Maybe your rack is shot, if it's leaking a lot, it's done, but you did say fluid levels seem to be consistent, and that's what I notice with mine.

    Let's say you want to replace it, well the cheapest and most solid option in my opinion is finding a low mileage used OEM steering rack and swapping in a new rack guide. If it hasn't started leaking, it's still got good life, and the new rack guide will keep it alive much longer.

    I got a rack from a 4Runner with less than 100,000 miles, and considering my original its still clinging to life with 270,000 miles of wheeling and heavy loads in a city full of hills and shitty roads, I'm not too convinced pulling it to replace it with a rebuilt unit is a great idea.

    It's been said in this thread many times, the aftermarket is a crapshoot. May be a far simpler solution to spend $40 on a new OEM rack guide before spending a minimum of $300 on a parts store piece of shit.

    It's kinda like OEM starters in these trucks, when they start clicking, don't replace the starter, crack it open and replace the contacts for $15. I know many who can tell you the frustration of making that mistake, because no rebuild or aftermarket alternative is better than the original Toyota put in it.
     
    FirstGen Jer likes this.
  17. Nov 24, 2015 at 4:59 PM
    #37
    goldentaco03

    goldentaco03 Well-Known Member

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    I got an aftermarket one that was made out of aluminum of something so that it wouldn't corrode and crack. What happened to your rack? One day my rack started puking power steering fluid. Turns out it internally failed.
     
  18. May 7, 2018 at 11:06 AM
    #38
    CajunCubsFan

    CajunCubsFan Well-Known Member

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    3" lift OME Nitrocharger 16" SCS Ray 10's Utility cap AL Offroad Roof rack Prototype SSO Tacoma Rock Sliders
    How do you know if its the Rack or the Power steering pump?
    For about a year now my steering has been whining like it is out of fluid. I check it from time to time and have put very little in it so it is not leaking much. But yesterday it finally started acting like the power steering was going out.
     
  19. May 27, 2018 at 10:36 AM
    #39
    goldentaco03

    goldentaco03 Well-Known Member

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    Check for any leaks in the power steering rack, that's usually a dead giveaway for a bad rack. Mine was gushing fluid when it finally went, they usually fail internally. If you can't find any leaks on the rack or obvious signs of damage then it's probably the pump.
     
  20. May 27, 2018 at 9:34 PM
    #40
    CajunCubsFan

    CajunCubsFan Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, that is what we are thinking. Going to replace the pump next week and see. Thanks for the reply, I will let you know.
     

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