Factory Tonneau Question-attachment method

The latch studs are attached to the bed rails with 2 Torx screws per stud thru a flat plate welded to the stud (perpendicular to the stud). Does anyone know IF the holes are drilled into the bed rail after manufacture , thereby creating a rust/corrosion problem in the sheet metal? Or are the holes made into the bed rail with a welded nut on back side or other thread receiving feature? I am concerned that bare metal may exist which would be a long term rust/corrosion issue. Many covers do not require drilling. I just can't tell how this is made. Tks

 

Inspected 2 trucks at dealer today; 1 with Tonneau cover and 1 without. The holes were installed before painting with a threaded boss provided to receive Torx threaded fastener. There are 3 per side on all trucks, even w/o covers. You can just lift up on plastic rail cap and see them. Even the vertical hex bolt (used for cover removal) on passenger side is threaded into a boss secured using the same pair of Torx. It is a first rate design with no corrosion concerns.

 

I think the design is awful.
It does not even attempt to keep water out as there are huge gas in the front and back. You cant lift it like a trunk without opening the tailgate. Meaning to get something out you have to unlock the tailgate open the tailgate reach under and lift the handle and then lift that section of the tonneau. I love the idea but think this could have been so much better designed and implemented.

 

MSWAZ, I don't have one but am getting a TRD OR DC in March. The one coming has a cover but I was trying to switch out with one w/o a cover due to concerns about corrosion related to the attachment method. My comment about great design was commenting on the attachment method being corrosion proof. Your comments about leak tightness are appreciated. I don't expect it to be leak tight. I understand if you position the tie down cleats out of the way in back the cover will latch a 2nd click and seat tighter. I will have mine off (if I get one) much of the time due to farm work and hunting. But I was relieved to see the attachment holes and fasteners were not after-thoughts just drilling into painted body panels. Thanks

 

Does anyone have any pictures of the entire mechanism stripped down with the plastic taken off? (On the bed rail, not cover)

The reason I ask is I'm wondering how easy it would be to replace these pins when (not if) they get bent. I'm still waiting on my VIN so I'm wondering if I should just cancel the factory cover or not.

 

Kumunoy, I personally saw the setup yesterday. There is a gray plastic cover that just snaps off uncovering the flat plate which exposes the 2 Torx fasteners heads. You can quickly remove them. If a stud broke, you would just get the part from Toyota, and easily replace it. There is no need to remove the entire bed rail cap. As you can see, the rail cap has already been cut to allow access.

 

Ok, that makes sense now. Thank you for explaining it. It doesn't seem like such a deal breaker to me now.