Failed theft attempt. I need to educate myself.

• I'll do more research on pedal locks. The one I saw yesterday had terrible reviews. Kicking the things around would free up enough play to engage and drive off.
• Motion sensors of the surrounding is impractical since it's parked along a sidewalk. Motion sensor inside the truck. Well once in Motion, it's kind of too late. But I'm still looking into that. a) Inexpensive Bluetooth one time purchase or b) GPS Tracker with monthly fees.

 

I totally agree. But insurances gets crazy real quick if the problem becomes recurrent.

Another thing I should have considered before selling my trouble free for all the 12 years I owned my dear fuel thirsty Tundra is that the Tacoma is on the top 10 stolen vehicles in my area while de Tundra isn't.
As much as I like the Tacoma, fuel consumption is only marginally better. My good old truck was not much of a target. I'm starting to miss it.

 

It’s my truck that got stolen in the other thread. Like I said, SEVERAL individuals who are either in law enforcement or insurance told me that the clubs do reduce the chance of theft. No it’s not 100% but it’s about making other vehicles more appealing than yours.

 

Hey nice to meet you and thank you for your reply Since it is an inexpensive solution. I'll go for that as well.

I bet you did your homework when selecting yours. Which one did you pick?

Can you point me to the post where you recovered your truck? (20 pages is a tough read when everyone got something to say, just repeating what previous posts already mentioned ;-))

 

That's the thing with any anti-theft device. It's a deterrent for crimes of opportunity, but nothing will stop someone who's determined enough.

 

If I lived somewhere that criminalized defense of my property, I would move.

That said, the kill switch looks like the ticket to me.

 

First times in 20 years we got something like that on my street.

Car theft as skyrocketed on the "most wanted" vehicles.
And since the new "smart" technologies are easier than ever to hack.
It's almost like it's good business for car manufacturers to make their car easy to steel.

I regret not doing my homework when I decided to go on a new Tacoma especially that it takes seconds to find local stats.
Oh and here another reason to add to the pile of whys I will not move to Ford. LoL.
The use case of a low mileage Tundra V8 is starting to make sense. I'm so much not into the new turd engine (some spell it "turbo").

 

I got one of these for my camper. Easy to deal with but it would be a bit of a hassle for every day use.

If I were gonna park it for several days ( ie: go outta town etc ) I'd do it.
Sure it can be beat but it would take quite a while and make a lot of noise.... thieves would move on to easier fish.

 

That's what I meant by a Denver Sabot in my original post.
We have a manufacture of those not far from what I live. They have contracts with many of the largest cities in the States. And since I'm a bit excessive, I treat myself with one for my trailer. It was few dollars short of a grant. Just the lock to secure it was $300 alone(included) and the way it is attached makes it a real pain to cut. It is some serious sh!t. BUT it also takes 5-10 minutes to install/remove. Probably a bit less if I use a cordless drill.

 

My work car (dodge charger) has a switch that needs to be activated to place the car in drive. The switch is hidden, and only needs to be pressed when shifting out of park. I'm sure this is available for all makes and models, because we have it for the Ford Explorer and for the Taurus Interceptors. When my car has been in the shop I have gotten phone calls from the mechanics asking how to get the car out of park.

 

Alright, you win. See post 50, you have that?

 

That I do not. My dad used to wire kill switches into his cars. Then again, at the time he lived in East Detroit and cars were a lot simpler.

 

Post 50 speaks about out of park. How would it work on a manual transmission (see post #1)

 

That's one way to do that. Most cars computers do need to see Neutral switch position in order to crank the engine. Same goes for the manual, ecu needs to see the clutch pressed. By adding a hidden switch to the neutral switch circuit could be a deterrent option.

 

I like how simple/efficient this sounds. I wonder how accessible this circuit is.

 

Super easy. The switch is right on the clutch pedal.
A kill switch of some sort will be your best protection. Probably the cheapest too.
They’ll get aggravated and just take the tailgate.
However, they could still “pop” start a clutch bypass by rolling it.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...n-last-night-fxck.743289/page-5#post-26462654

I just use the basic club but we’re lucky because the steering wheel is made so that you can put it on the BACK side. That makes it almost impossible to tamper with the lock. Then they have 2 options cut the steering wheel which because of where the club is installed on the Tacoma is not as easy as they make it sound plus it damages the goods, or cut the club. If they cut it with a blade it’s REALLY NOISY. Not appealing. Again there’s never a guarantee. You can only reduce the possibility.

And a footnote to this, my truck was parked 40 feet from my bedroom window. My dog goes apeshit if anyone even walks by the house. We never heard a damn thing. It was just gone.

 

Thank you so much for your reply. I've seen pple doing it. Mounting the club behind the wheel really seems to add an extra annoyance for the a-holes.

 

Kill the fuel pump relay control circuit, add a club and keep the wheels turned that’s about all you can do. Everything is just a deterrent and nothing is 100% so you need to be creative.

 

I’ve gotten in the habit of disabling my key fob whenever I’m at home or work so it’s not transmitting. It won’t stop someone from pulling my truck up onto a flatbed, but figure it’s a little something.

I also keep my spare disabled and in a faraday pouch.