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Fan clutch?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by austinsdad99, Jan 18, 2019.

  1. Jan 18, 2019 at 7:34 AM
    #1
    austinsdad99

    austinsdad99 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Just recently I’ve started using my truck for daily driving again. I go about 40-45 miles a day making several stops a day. I have a scan gauge installed and previous temps never got above 195 even on 95 degree humid days. It’s about 50 ish degrees now and I’ve noticed my temps creeping up close to 200 even sitting at idle. Rad is a year old no idea about t stat, I have noticed the fan is stiff to spin when it’s warmed up. I can’t remember if it’s suppose to free wheel or be hard to spin when warmed up.

    Could be the stat or maybe the clutch is bad? Just looking for ideas.
    Thanks!
     
    GQ7227 likes this.
  2. Jan 18, 2019 at 7:42 AM
    #2
    Xbeaus

    Xbeaus Well-Known Member

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    The fan clutch usually will make a noise when it is bad and doesn't commonly fail. Your temps don't seem out of line though. I think I run about 190-200 when warmed up. There was another thread about temps going on that has those same numbers.
     
  3. Jan 18, 2019 at 7:54 AM
    #3
    jammer

    jammer 2003 Toyota PreRunner 3.4L

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    Last edited: Jan 18, 2019
  4. Jan 18, 2019 at 1:33 PM
    #4
    austinsdad99

    austinsdad99 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yea it’s not too hot, I actually grabbed the lower hose and it was cool so I know it’s cooling. My t stat could be getting slow at opening or something. Could be time for a new one.
     
  5. Jan 18, 2019 at 3:42 PM
    #5
    wesb1023

    wesb1023 Well-Known Member

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    Thermostat is the cheapest component in your cooling system. They do fail, and they aren’t hard to replace. Also make sure your coolant is full. Slow leaks like at the heater control valve that actually dries before it hits the ground or isn’t enough to get noticed easily could cause the radiator to be slightly low, and the engine will run a little warmer. The oem thermostat is 180deg I think, and the general rule of thumb is that a thermostat is fully open at 20 degrees above its opening temp, so it would be wide open at 200 degrees. I also have a scan gauge and I’ve seen mine as high as 204 degrees in stop and go traffic in the summer months. If you’re seeing higher than normal temperatures cruising down the road at 55, it’s probably not going to be your fan clutch as the culprit. A clean radiator (airflow) actually doesn’t need a fan at all to stay cool as long as you’re traveling fast enough. The airflow side of your radiator could be stopped up with mud or whatever, no matter how old it is, depending on driving conditions.
     
    cruiserguy likes this.
  6. Jul 12, 2020 at 7:32 AM
    #6
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    what kind of noise... :notsure:

    perhaps faint ticking in certain RPM band through the gears?
     
  7. Jul 12, 2020 at 11:11 AM
    #7
    jammer

    jammer 2003 Toyota PreRunner 3.4L

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    Hey J A Y! I’ve been following your possible fan clutch issue. I believe the noise he is referring to is the roaring sound the fan will make. When I first start my truck (3.4l w/Green Fan Clutch) the fan is loud for about 10 seconds and then quietens down. A bad fan clutch will sometimes roar all the time.
    Good luck getting resolved. I completely understand your frustration!!! My damn ABS issue is eating at me like rust!
     
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  8. Jul 12, 2020 at 2:07 PM
    #8
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
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    mine does the roar at start up and quiets down

    but i have yet to replicate the spank spank spank grinding noise from last summer season
    maybe it was the fan clutch first giving out then idk! :ballchain:
     
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  9. Jul 13, 2020 at 7:32 AM
    #9
    Xbeaus

    Xbeaus Well-Known Member

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    Yes - mine does that too. Loud whirring noise for a bit. How's your idler pulley? sometimes those bearings can run dry and it will make a noise like you are describing. Or - AC pulley? lots of things spinning up there :)
     
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  10. Jul 14, 2020 at 6:45 AM
    #10
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
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    not quite sure about idler pulley / AC pulley, its original equipment still no clue how to test that, is it something else that just needs new parts thrown at it?
    faint tick tick tick now at narrow band of 2.1k rpm through most gears if road noise is minimal it is heard
     
  11. Jul 14, 2020 at 8:35 AM
    #11
    Timmah!

    Timmah! Well-Known Member

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    Even if your fan clutch passes all the tests I mention in my video, overheating during idle is a dead give-away it's a problem with your fan clutch. At idle, the only thing pulling air through the cooling fins of your radiator is the fan. Your fan clutch might just be partially locking up but not fully locking up when you need it to. When you're moving at a decent speed, air is being forced in through the grill, through your AC condenser cooling fins and finally through the cooling fins of your radiator so you're not relying on the fan clutch at that point. When you're driving very slow or at a standstill, it's all on your fan clutch to keep air moving through the cooling fins.

    I would replace the fan clutch. It's only around $100 and I bet it fixes your issue. If your thermostat was the problem, you would overheat in all conditions, not just at idle.

    https://www.youtube.com/embed/WzhlACxqeqQ
     
  12. Jul 14, 2020 at 9:10 AM
    #12
    Madjik_Man

    Madjik_Man The Rembrandt of Rattle Can

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  13. Jul 14, 2020 at 9:56 PM
    #13
    Akkording

    Akkording Well-Known Member

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    get the tow package fan clutch if you do, I enjoy the much cooler AC temps. yes the motor will sound like a school bus it's that much louder but you get use to it
     
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  14. Jul 15, 2020 at 6:32 AM
    #14
    Xbeaus

    Xbeaus Well-Known Member

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    Good thing to note! I can tell you that a flowmaster 40 series all but drowns out that whirly school but fan sound ;)
     
  15. Jul 15, 2020 at 7:22 AM
    #15
    Akkording

    Akkording Well-Known Member

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    plus a AEM bruteforce busted support arm CAI and an oversized KN air filter will set you straight. looks and sound are important. I like your style
     
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  16. Jul 16, 2020 at 11:58 AM
    #16
    Xbeaus

    Xbeaus Well-Known Member

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    Interesting story. I had a CAI on my pickup when I bought it. Removed in favor of the OEM airbox and all it's components. Got it from a member off here. I posted the CAI locally. In my add I said this no way provides any power gain but does sound cool. A guy picked it up and a week later wants his money back because he couldn't feel the HP increase. Judging by his reading skills and what he told me I said "tough shit". Threw my Altezza? (that what you call them) clear tail lights off and threw those POS in the trash. But - can't bash them too bad since I like the loud exhaust ;)
     
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  17. Jul 16, 2020 at 12:10 PM
    #17
    Akkording

    Akkording Well-Known Member

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    aftermarket CAI aren't for everyone
     
  18. Jul 16, 2020 at 3:46 PM
    #18
    Akkording

    Akkording Well-Known Member

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    Yeah but if it wasn't for the tad more intake flow your exhaust would sound different, it's all relative.
     
  19. Jul 16, 2020 at 3:50 PM
    #19
    Yota4Life89

    Yota4Life89 Well-Known Member

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    I thought 1st gens didn't come with tow packages? But apparently there's a tow pkg fan clutch?
     
  20. Jul 16, 2020 at 3:52 PM
    #20
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    maybe the ticking is the throwout bearing chatter idk! idk!
    i need a break bad
     
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