Fan control and blower resistor harness burnt

If I replace the female plug terminal, then do I still need to replace the control switch component? That entire HVAC control panel appears to be about $600...

 

Mine worked while it was burned, but I wanted to restore it to original condition. So, when I replaced the connector, I also replaced the control panel, but you can get those off of eBay for closer to $110.

 

When you get a used heater control panel, make sure you get the correct year range. Somewhere midway through the 2nd gens, they changed. If you cross the line and swap the wrong one in, your temperature control will be backwards.

 

Getting ready to tackle the harness and resistor replacement this weekend. Just out of curiosity, how many of you soldered the cut leads to the new harness? Does it make a difference?

 

I just went thru this whole issue. First there was only high fan. That went on for a few months. Then no fan at all. Found the fan switch and connector burned pretty bad. Blower resistor connector also burned. Blower connector not burned.

Removed the blower motor and measured DC resistance at around .5 ohm compared to 1 ohm on new motor. Repaired fan switch and changed blower resistor and connector.

It’s my opinion that the blower motor windings are deteriorating and causing high current draw which is frying connections elsewhere in the system.

Check your blower. It’s super easy to pull out and a new one cost me $29 on eBay. Not factory unit but fit and works perfect at 1/5 the price.

I hope the fix holds up long enough to get thru the summer. Way too hot here in Sacramento to go without AC.