Fan speed switch not working.

I'm not sure exactly what you're trying to say, but those wire colors mentioned by Choads are for using the 3rd gen style resistor that have the 4 wires arranged in a square and not in a row like the 2nd gen connector.

 

well out of my league. Perks of being a lowly 2nd genner

 

I still think you missed the point. Apparently Toyota is selling the 3rd gen type resistor and connector for use in the 2nd gen Tacos and claiming it is more robust. A few pages back, a TW member posted this pic of the different types of connectors, but no concrete, documented orientation on which wires connect to what. Choads is the 1st to absolutely, positively show how it should be connected.

If you bought the 2nd gen style connector with the terminals all in a row, you just match up the colors.

 

Aah I see what you're saying. Thats kind of a cluster.

 

TLDR Warning:

I had the symptom of the fan only working on high and decided to do the 3rd gen resistor upgrade, I purchased the following parts:

82141-04Q80 "Harness Service Wiring Repair Kit"
87138-04070 "Resistor"

The resistor has a date code 2019.0116


The plug pinout is:


Here is a graphic representation, black is the resistor and gray is the pin

I started with this configuration and while the fan functions it doesnt appear to be functioning correctly, I have no noticable speed difference between low and medium. After digging in more I am questioning the notes in your PDF for the new wiring: *10 and *11 which show what appears to be different pinouts for the plug depending on whether it was made before or after Sep 2018. Per the following info I believe the pinout in the harness I have is incorrect.

I tested my old resistor and per the FSM test it appears to be within spec, pointing to the wiring being the problem. I then tested the new resistor, I haven't seen the same FSM printout for the 3rd gen resister so I am trying to determine which pin in the resistor is which circuit, the values are:



From that data I am assuming that common is either pin C or pin A:





Based on the deltas in values for all the measurements I am going to assume that common is A.

Back to the plug pinout the plug I received doesnt correlate to either the *10 or *11 wiring diagram. I have the following:



If common is A it would get wired as follows:

This would be the case if:
Common is C
You have a resistor dated after 09/2018
You have a wiring harness with the same pinout as what I received.



It would get wired as follows


Does anybody have the FSM page for the 3rd gen tacoma that shows "Blower Resistor Inspection" and confirms which pin is common??

Sorry for the extremely long post, I was also trying to get this straight in my own head...

 

I am convinced that for the majority of fan issues, it's not the resistor that is faulty but the wiring connectors that dont have a solid connection. Whether at the resistor connector or at the fan. I have faulty connectors at both locations. I fixed the fan connector but speed #3 still does not function; it is same speed as #2. This does not bother me; so, I've learned to live with it.

 

I just tested both configurations: Common is C and Common is A and both work, I get varying speeds of what seems appropriate speeds for each setting of the dial.

I am using butt connectors until I get this sorted out, the white stuff is unshrunk heat shrink

Before - matching colors per the Toyota recomendation that @Choads provided.


Assuming common is C:


Assuming Common is A:


I mentioned in my previous post that I believe common is A, I believe this is correct and that the wiring provided from Toyota is correct assuming the note *11, BUT, I think that the plug I received is pinned out incorrectly.

A Snip of the diagram provided courtesy of @Choads:


You can see that the pinout is the following:


I believe that note *11 is correct with the assumption that common is A.

But

The plug I received is pinned as follows:
1 White/black
2 White
3 Green
4 Blue

Instead of what is shown in the diagram:
1 Blue
2 Green
3 White
4 White/black

In order to wire the new to old as Toyota provided, the plug has to be re-pinned.

 

Purchased new Blower/motor assembly via ToyotaPartsDeal. Decided on OEM at $130 shipped. Wanted the peace of mind of air flow and noise per OEM spec. Install was easy thanks to YouTube video. All works good now. Replaced the resistor and wiring harness a few months ago (different thread) to fix the "only works on HIGH" fan speed setting. For only postage, the old one is offered on the Buy/Sell if anyone wants to rebuild it.

 

Nor the motor, not the switch, not the resistor.
Its the wiring harness.
My GF has been kicking the harness with her toes. (Nervous passenger)
Right near the resistor.
Wiggle the wires and it works or hit a big bump.
Unwrap the harness and find the broken wire.
My + wire was broken in the harness.
One butt splice and some foam rubber to protect wires from kicks.

 

First time poster looking for help:

2006 Prerunner 180,000 miles

My original blower resistor started to bite the dusk last year, I replaced it recently but LOW and became medium low power (not low). I checked out the connector and it seemed burnt so I replaced that, fixed the previous problem but now M2 (medium high) is low. So now it's:
Off - off
Low - low
M1 - medium low
M2 - low
High - high

any ideas? Wiring seems fine, but who knows without inspecting it all. Could it be the blower or the control dial or even a bad new resistor? I confirmed the new connector wiring is identical to stock but maybe I need to swap some wires in the connector for the new resistor to work right?

thanks!

 

So what is the consensus for wiring Old (flat type) to New (square) color code?

 

You may want to look into replacing the blower itself if it continues to stop working. I tried the resistor on mine and got nothing. Try putting the switch on one of the slower fan speeds and try giving the metal bottom of the blower housing a soft but firm tap (I used to end of my Maglite) to see if it starts spinning. Mine would start spinning after a tap. The worn bearings may be keeping the motor from spinning on the lower speeds.

 

What ^ said. I had the same issue, tapped hard with my fingers on the motor/blower, and now works. Thing's noisy, but my truck's old, don't care. Most things work.

 

To simplify my overly confusing posts:

If the plug you buy has the following pinout




It would get wired as follows

 

If anyone repeats the cut, strip n crimp, stagger the crimp "tubes".

 

LOL but i like it when the wire bundle diameter is doubled cause the splices... i can just wrap more Scotch 70 around it and tie with waxed braid...

 

So this worked for mine- three days ago my 2013 tacoma started only blowing on high, I read through the first few pages of this thread while I was sitting at the toyota store and decided to look through my wiring before buying any parts from the dealership. Somewhere at the start of this thread I also read that not having enough flow from the cabin filter could also result with some overheating of the resistor and/or wires and cause wires to burn.

I also had a minuscule, odd sounding, high pitched squealing noise that increased with my RPM. I had no good way to describe this noise to get any results from google (also fixed during this process, described below).

What I did ( and now mine is working again)- I stopped by autozone and picked up some electrical connector grease and a cabin air filter. First I replaced the cabin filter, then visually inspected the resistor and wiring. The "C" pin on my connector had a slight burnt dark brown spot and the connector was pin inside was not as tight as the other 3. So I popped out that one pin, bent the pin back to the position where it would have a good connection, coated in the grease, and put back together. It has worked great since then without replacing any parts.

For the strange sound- I took the blower motor assembly apart by removing a phillips head screw, then another under the first. Removed the cover, which mine was pretty tight and tricky but it comes apart, and used wd40 to lubricate the shaft. I did this by removing the little "C" clip thing and several rubber washers beneath the clip, sprayed a very small amount of wd40 on the shaft and let gravity take it down the shaft toward the inside. I did this from both sides of the shaft. The inside of the motor was filthy with black dust, so I blew it out and put it back together. I'm no electrician, so if this was graphite and was suppose to be in there someone please let me know lol. But after putting it all back together the noise is gone and my AC works in all positions.

 

Well I have had the exact same fan switch problem on and off for 2 years thinking it was some kind of CAN bus problem with one of the computers. Dumb me, no hi tech involved. Just a roasted connector terminal in a poorly designed wiring harness!

I ordered one of the Amazon kits, but don’t want to really wait for a virus delayed delivery. I just used a poker to bend the fried connector a bit and sprayed it with DeOxit. Working fine now and there is nothing wrong with the resistor module.
If it happens again, I’ll replace the connector but not the resistor. What a PITA getting that resistor out. Nearly lost one screw down under the carpet.

I bought a resistor and connector for $15. Probably manufacturing cost is <$3. If Toyota was really “with us through these difficult times” As their ad says, they would just send every gen 1 & 2 owners a new connector.

 

Got new inline connector with crimp splices and new resistor module today. Guess I have some work now to do.

 

12-15 bucks at vato-zone