Faulted Start followed by a single click. Intermittent symptom.

I unlocked my truck and sat in the drivers seat. I stepped on the brake and pressed the push start button. I heard a single click. The engine did not turn over. (Battery @12.58v) The following is a list of different attempts to start the truck resulting n the same no start one click:

1. I put the truck in neutral and press the brake and start button and it fired up! Next start failed.
2. Tried multiple brake/start which failed, then on the 4th attempt it started! The next three start within an hour all started error free
3. After two or three attempts, then a second after the last fail the truck started. Then failed on next start attempt
4. Following multiple failed starts I decided to exit the truck. As I was sliding out of the drivers seat (half on) I heard a single loud click coming from under the truck. I got back in and the truck started.

You may be thinking what did he install, or do recently?

No installations within 2 months of initial issue

The issue initially appeared following
1. Crossing the Verde River 2’ deep
2. Arced my Auxbeam Switch and blew the 60a inline fuse
3. Removed the trim panel surrounding the auto shift lever

What have I done in addition to above?
I took it to Bell RD Toyota. They said it was:
- a very low Fob battery. I replaced it. They said good to go, nope.
- They also said the Neutral Safety Switch could be the issue- it is “discontinued”? Whhhhaaaat? Manufacturers are supposed to supply parts for 8 years after vehicle manufacture! Unless there is a TSB with a workaround or alternate part number.
- It could be faulty brake sensors.

I think we need Toyota help. There are alot of us with this issue. If anyone knows of any fixes you did to overcome this on you truck please reply. This thread will be valuable to our TWForm members.

Sleepless in AZ!

 

@toddcmenard
No idea what may be wrong -
In regards to maintenance... from experience and/or word of mouth, can you rate
the local dealers here in Phoenix?... Good/ Bad/ Ugly / ... or do they all suck...

Gotta think there are a few around here where service is reliable.

 

Stupid question but are the battery terminals tight? Seen stuff like this happen a lot and be a loose connection

 

Sounds exactly like what happened recently with my 2000 Ford Ranger. Bad starter. The single click is the giveaway. A series of clicks would be a bad battery.

 

Also, a key fob battery should come with a warning on the dash. I've gotten a few of those recently and haven't gotten around to replacing mine. Either way, you should still be able to start the truck by putting the fob up to the start button and pushing it.

 

2021SR5V64WD Master technicians are of great value versus auto repair tech. You can find all calibers at dealerships so I try not to comment, sorry

Shellshock Yes, basics are also important. Went through the typical no start diagnosis to no avail

NoVa TRD Sport I agree, however the new electronics connect to everything... doesn’t negate tour suggestion though, thanks

 

is not fully charged. have it load tested.

 

When it starts, it starts strongly, so not cracking slowly. The starter clicks every time right, so solenoid is trying to pull in. Aside from a loose connection, my first thoughts are either low voltage or high resistance in the solenoid circuit such that the solenoid is not pulling in strong enough to engage the ring gear and the motor contacts, or the motor contacts in the solenoid assembly are corroded.

If you care to try, you can jump the solenoid terminal from the motor power lead terminal with the key off. If it consistently cranks you can confirm or eliminate the starter itself as the issue.

 

I had a similar issue in a previous vehicle when the immobilizer chip inside the key broke loose and rattled itself to the back end of the key fob. That 3/4 in difference in it's location was just out of reach of the reader inside the damn steering column. Super annoying that even though the chip was still in the fob, depending on how I shook the key fob and where the immobilizer chip ended up in there the car would start or not. But you said push button start so you aren't inserting a key. Is there not a backup physical key to start a push button vehicle? Just bought a 2020 corolla with push button and it's my first so not sure on that. If htere is a physical key, could try that and see if the same scenario plays out.

 

water in starter=bad solenoid contacts. The solenoid functions as designed but the contacts that supply power to the starter motor are corroded and now allowing enough current to turn the starter. New starter or change the contacts,,,,, just my 02

 

UPDATE 4/16: *Resolved* Thanks guys. You are awesome. I took much of your troubleshooting advice. Dealer wanted $150 diagn fee. The only thing that is after the click is the starter. So I started there after having already determined my battery was good, connections ok, cable to selenoid tight @nd not corroded, hmmm starter click but doesn’t throw. Hmmm so the starter was the first thing to replace working backward. Not including the previous replacement of the fob battery. And the truck works fine. Thanks

 

For some reason, tacoma starter hates being submerged underwater . Snorkle or not lol . Theres been some threads on this.

 

There are lots of dealerships in this valley, I'm sure you can find reviews of ones you might be looking at. I just take my truck to a local mechanic that i trust. Dealership seems to be over priced imo.

 

First hand experience of replacing the starter after crossing the Verde. After a dozen or so crossings in a year it eventually failed.

Typical scenerio after the crossings were slow/ starts for a couple weeks and then it cleared up. It eventually failed a couple months ago and had to replace.