F'd up while working on drum brakes. Help?

That's exactly what I was doing tonight. I just made a rookie mistake by pressing down on the brake pedal without the drum cover on.

 

Bleeder us the little tip on back of wheel cylinder on picture red arrow. Only use a boxed end wrench if you don't have line wrench.

 

Toyotacare?

 

You should be fine, I haven't worked on drum brakes since the early 2000's but this looks the same as the 95 Accord I had.
And Scotty got you covered for this https://youtu.be/wZAMpsgdEO0

 

Toyota around here disowned me a long time ago. They'll have me kick rocks. I don't blame them, but they won't be any help to me on this one...

 

I'd crack the bleeder ,push the pistons back in, make sure shoes are ali9right and put the drum on , then. Bleed brakes, put tire back on bring to close shop. Future reference put the drum on and adjust the star wheel from the back side of the dust shield

 

You'll get it with all the help on here. Just take your time. Drum brake are a pia compared to disc.

 

Sure, are. Disc brakes are the way to go. These drums have always been an issue since I got this truck one way or another. Going to start working now and I'll update you guys with results. Thanks for all the help everyone.

 

How many miles?

 

27k

 

I was able to bleed some fluid just now, however even with the bleed valve completely removed, no amount of force on the ratchet strap will get the left cylinder to compress. Any more force and something is sure to break. Also took the fluid reservoir cap off during this.

 

Also unless things have changed, you don't adjust the e brake with the star adjusters. The e brake is a cable and should have an adjustment under the truck where one cable split into 2. Just a nut and stud.

 

Did you try slightly lifting on the outside of the left shoe as I mentioned? Not much, only about 1/4 inch.

 

I did. Do you mean out towards me? Or towards the front of the truck?

 

I'd just replace the wheel cylinder if you can find one at a parts store locally, then bleed and go. I just checked RockAuto and they're only $10 bucks.

 

On these trucks the parking brake cables are coaxial right into the center console. There is no parking brake adjustment under the truck. The equalizer for the two cables is inside the console.

 

Pull towards you about 1/4 in.

 

Thanks for the info on that. Just know it's not done with the star adjuster.

 

The only force holding the cylinder out should be fluid pressure, therefore the “stuck” force is probably from a misalignment of the components. Check how everything is aligned and assembled (brake contact points with the cylinder especially). Take your time going over all components... you can always Uber to work tomorrow morning if necessary.