FEELER: High output alternators

I'm interested but only if we keep the cost in the Mean Green range or lower. I don't need a $600 alternator. Also, I'm 1st gen, if that matters for the buy...

 

Used to have one of these in my civic hatch back. 180amp, pushing 2 Orion HCCA 15's with a good 4000watts of power. Head lights didn't even dim when I was pushing the subs hard at idle.

These alternators are no joke.

Wish I had a need for my Tacoma. No room for big giant subs in the 4 door. However I have been thinking about removing the rear seats and putting a 15 or 2 in there.....

Sub'd.

 

I remember Orion...

 

been there done that hell i even walled mine with 4 15s
IM not back to 4 12s with rear seats- its will be a little bit crammed but will work just fine for what i need it for.
PS 2 15s, port up with 2 gpp3kw almost did a 150 in SS nw 1-2 without SPL tuning. it was in my regular daily tuned box, im sure if i tuned the box at 48-50 and burped the normal 55 hz truck resont freq it would have done better

 

ill compare the brand i pick to something thats in the same class as the top Notch alternator companies like DC MECHMAN SINGER ETC ,
I know many are happy with the MEan GReen but i will not run it, nor would i attempt to put together a group buy on them. With alternators you simply get what you pay for.
IF i spend my money on a alt, which i will be, i want an alternator that i know gets X amount of amps at idle, when its hot, and peak output thats built with all brand new overbuilt and only the best parts.

Many alternator companies boast COLD Figures, or UP TO 300% over stock--- im sorry but i dont fly like that.
Im going out there to bring forth the very best money can buy per value of the product.
as for pricing, im putting together a proposal to 2 different companies as we speak.

 

Subbed. Is this over yet? Might be interested.

 

Hasn't even started yet.

 

I'll be in for this after christmas if you can make it happen.

 

Once im finished with the deadener GB on monday, ill start actively working on this one.
Do you guys prefer an upfront DIscounted price or a IF target is met, xx % off, additional target XX% off base ?

 

Link?

 

You might just go for a fixed discount. I don't think you are going to get very many people in on this...

 

X2
You won't get many.
Also, confirm with them that the 2012-2013-2014 motors are exactly the same and the 2011 alternator will fit later models.
And I'd be interested in the 170- if I'm gonna drop this kinda money why bother getting anything less than the top?

 

yeah,
i figured that.
i prefer having fixed discount from the start as well.
im learning a few things with the deadener gb

 

its not a dead end ur. I would call it bad timed. So close to the holidays most of us with families have a very tight budget

 

Polyperformance has had HO alternators for several years for our trucks, although they are "only" 240A.
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Truck-Tough-Alternators-Toyota-Alternators-p-29937.html

 

I'm interested

 

Their only 140a at idle. I need more than that

 

Just a couple things to think about.

Bigger batteries or 'dual battery' systems greatly increase current capacity for things such as winches and stereos.

Efficiency is electricity is just as beneficial as going the Tim Taylor ARRRRR route by installing the Binford 6100 Super Alternator. Check all your grounds and terminal leads. Ensure your wiring can handle the capacity and is not heating up under load.

Bigger alternators means more parasitic drain on your vehicle, where instead you could just have multiple batteries, have them charged, save gas and not even have to run your vehicle with a winch.

 

Only when their under a load
I'd hope to gosh that who ever installs a ho alt upgrades the wires w a big 3 install. More battery = more weight= less fuel economy.
Anyhow is a feeler post not a discussion about people's views and opinions.
Only opinion I care about is if there are people that have use for an ho alt, what what they would like in terms of specs

 

I don't know much about the "right" way to install big stereo's or anything, and I'm curious if Brian is right. I run a couple of amps, about 1000W RMS. That is 83 Amp draw (less on average of course) and I run the stock alternator with an optima yellow top. I don't have a capacitor, although I know I should have one. If I run for an hour or so at max volume the headlights start to dim on the hard hits and it starts to sound like shit. If I turn it off for a while it sounds normal after a few miles of driving. I ran a red top for a while, and it would sound like shit and the headlight would dim ALL the time (at high volume levels). This leads me to believe the battery capacity is more important than the alternator output. With the redtop, I was charging at 14+ volts but it couldn't keep up at all. What do you think man?