Feeler: Power Vent Windows

Great job. I'm sure more people would open the rear vents if it was just a simple button. I know that I would.

 

What happened to this?

 

I'm totally down to buy one right now if you're selling them. I'm doing a retrofit for power windows in my Xtracab and I have two unused switches since I used parts from a Doublecab.

I'm building the harness soon so if this is something you'd sell it'll be easier for me to install while I have all the wiring out. If not could you share how to build them? I need this in my life!

 

Is this still a thing? I'd be interested. The only reason why I do not use the vents is because it is inconvenient to do so. If there was a button then I'd be opening them all day!

 

Are you wiring them to the rear power window switches for the double cab, to your xtra cab? If so, that's awesome keeping the factory look.

 

Might help you better if you read into my build thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...t-build-thread-write-up.455447/#post-13422087

I'm using a Double Cab master window controller since that's what the donor truck I got parts from had. The front two switches control their respective windows, but the rear window switches don't have anything connected. I never planned to utilize the rear window switches until I came across @nzbrock's build thread where he did this.

I was originally going to use cheap Chinese aftermarket power window kits (which was just a weak 12v motor with switches that hooks up to the manual window regulator gear where the handle would go) and cheap 3rd party lock actuators. It would have looked so ugly if I just stuck a bunch of window switches and lock switches into the '95-'00 style door panels so I decided I wanted to do it properly.

Luckily enough, a member on here was parting out his Limited '04 Double Cab, plus he was local. Took the 5 hour drive to Chico to pull the parts and here I am.

Do check out my thread though it has a lot of details.

 

I'm still planning on making the parts, just haven't had the time. So this is currently on the back burner.

 

Do you have the plans for this anywhere? While I have all the wiring out I want to run some wires to this so I can just plug it in when I eventually get this.

 

No posted plans. The motors just require two wires each. I ran the wires on the driver side and then across behind the rear wall panel to the passenger side.

 

Sounds good. Any ETA on this?

 

No ETA yet. I have to pull my window vent pieces off my truck so I can take measurements. Then test print parts, test fit, etc.

 

Cool!
So how does this mount to the cab, I heard you welded it or something?

 

I welded the motor mount bracket to the stock linkage bracket that bolts to the cab. They just both happened to be aluminum.

I plan to 3d model and print a bracket that would replace everything.

 

Alright! Please do put me down on a list when you end up selling these. Hell, I'll be the first one to buy one.

Would adding a passenger switch on each side be something that's feasible?

 

Oh I'm so waiting for this. Put me down for one!

 

Any follow up on this? Really interested in either buying or building this set up, what size motor was used?

 

I haven't made any progress on a kit. Since posting this I moved from FL to PA, and now I'm in TX.

I still want to look into this more, once I have my shop up and running in the spring I can probably start on this again.

Here's the motor I used originally:

Kohree 12V DC Gear Motor 30RPM Small High Torque Electric Motor 37mm GearBox

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O7IHVIA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got this motor to use on version 2 since it's :

30RPM/15RPM 12V 0.11A/6V 0.08A High Torque Electric Speed Reduce DC Geared Motor

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D838WX8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The custom part is how the linkage works, and how the motor mounts.
I also learned that 01-04 uses different interior pieces from 95-00.
95-00 has an opening in the plastic to mount the bracket (easier).
01-04 does not have an opening, so the bracket is hidden behind. This is much harder to figure out and mount since it would involve removing the interior plastic to get to it.

 

and its most likely the actual # of 95.5-2000 models still active on the roads is quite a bit less than the 01-04 models, due to the crushings

 

Hell yes, thanks for the reply! quick question, how'd you make it only rotate enough to get the window open, without it rotating complete rotations and possibly break the linkage system or burn the motor?

 

The linkage I used from a minivan works to stall the motor when it's at the end of rotation (about 180 degrees). This is how almost all of them work, same with regular window motors. They hit the end of mechanical travel and stall, then there is usually a sensor of some sort that cuts power to the motor in case you keep holding the button.

In this case the stall amperage was low enough to not cause any issues, and the motor isn't strong enough to break anything. I bench tested the stall amperage but I can't remember what it was off the top of my head.