Feeling uneasy about alignment, I could use some help

.09 is just inside of specs it counts down from .10 to zero then goes + up to .25+

 

Truck feels like it is floating and seems to follow every little rut and ripple in the road in my experience.

 

Yea, the engineers set it to specs for a reason, but its good to play around.

0.09 is definitely correct, 0.9 would be mega tire wear haha. Like you said, I flirt with top of spec. Tundras I go right up to 0.15-0.19 (lifted). Again, experience with the models.

 

Just gonna play it safe in the middle and ask the tech to give me 0.3 camber, keep 0.05 toe, and 2.2-2.5 caster to correct road crown drift

If it's bad then i'll get it realigned again, the shop is 0.8 mile from my place

 

Just repeating what they heard...

Again, an alignment is a static measurement.

Your toe goes from /-\(+0.05), to |-|(0) as dynamic forces(mostly scrub) act upon it when driven.

Your camber goes from \-/(+0.5) to|-|(0) as the tire rotates about the SAI and caster axis when toe moves from /-\ to |-|.

 

Positive camber does look goofy, but its how it is.

With all the 2-3" lifts it gets uncontrollable without adjustable arms, I end up usually with 0.9-1.0 camber and 1.5 caster.

 

What tire pressures are running? That can really effect how a truck rides down a road.

 

Has not been mentioned here but you might ask how often they calibrate their machine. I had an alignment down a few weeks ago and my front really looked like camber was off on both wheels, particularly the passenger side. The spec sheet said it was fine from firestone. Said heck with it and went to a shop that does only alignments, and my visual observation turned out to be correct. Way to much camber. This new shop mentioned a lot of places don't callibrate as often as the should, and that conditions they do the alignment under can cause false readings

 

I was just describing the symptoms I have encountered with zero toe and camber. Also,my Hoffman alignment machine calibrates itself at the beginning of each alignment as it uses optical targets that have no electronics in the wheel heads.

 

Got it. Sometimes, before running down the the rabbit hole of alignment and my truck feels funny, it makes sense to double check tire pressure (which should be checked at the alignment). Some folks run some pretty oddball inflation numbers. Does not sound like this is the issue here but figured someone should ask.

 

According to the printout in your OP, the truck should be pulling to the right. Alignment will cause pull to the side with the most camber and/or least caster. To test for pull, drive on the right side of the road, let go of the steering wheel and see how fast it drifts right. Then drive on the left side of the road and do the same thing. If it goes straight or left on the right side of the road, and fast left on the left side of the road, you definitely have a pull that is caused by something other than alignment. (Assuming your alignment is really what the sheet says it is) It could easily be the tires. If you suspect the tires, swap sides and see if it pulls the other direction.