Fiberglass shell vs. RLD Design vs. Rack with RTT?

Hi! I'm hoping to get your all thoughts on RTT vs shell and two brands of shells? Currently, I have a RTT with a rack.

I'm considering buying a shell for my Tacoma, probably a Leer 100R or XR? I value that I can lock up things in the back when I go on trips and like that the back contour follows the cab (unlike the RLD design which has a large gap).

I like that the RLD Design cap is metal as I don't have to worry about cracks and it feels more reliable. However, Leer has a lifetime structure and paint warranty as long as you satisfy a few of their reasonable requirements? A final option is I keep what I already have as-is or close off the back. I feel I haven't been car camping enough recently, but imagine I will find it wonderful again next winter when I start going out again for winter sports?

Leer cap photo pulled from this review

 

RLD for sure! I have the RSI canopy which is very similar and love it. If i had a short bed I would for sure go RLD.

 

Love my RLD and RTT. Will never go back to a fiberglass shell.

 

I was kind of in the same boat as you regarding the rsi cap or fiberglass shell a couple months back. I didn't care for a roof top tent though. I was very close to getting a rsi cap because they were letting me buy it 10% off. I had already placed the order and paid too, but that changed because I was able to get a good deal on a used fiberglass shell. So I cancelled my order and bought the ARE shell from a guy off Facebook market place because he was willing to drop the price. Cost me half the price of a new rsi cap. Looking back now, I'm glad I didn't get the rsi cap and have $1500 more in my pocket. Also because I live in the midwest, the fiberglass was a better option for me. I didn't want to have the thought in the back of my mind that the steel shell may rust with time. If I was loaded, I would've for sure gotten the rsi instead because it looks cool.

 

12 years with the old girl

 

Leer 100XR here. I've had no major issues, and I've been running a RTT daily since last April, minus the winter. I got mine with nearly all the options, and I did have some quality controls issues with the paint. The dealer offered a partial refund versus having to send it back, so I took them up on that, figuriring is was going to get beat up and scratched anyways. The fit and finish could have been a bit better, especially when it comes to the windoor and latch installations, but I really have no major leaks eithers. No structural issues so far, and I even added a 65lb awning on the driver's side this year.

 

love my rld and rtt combo. Saw that leer gave a lifetime warranty but didn’t want to even deal with the cracking. I’m lazy and I know I won’t do it. Lol. Also I’m a big dude so the extra weight capacity on the metal canopy was reassuring.

 

Looks pretty good! Does anyone have photos of DCSB without a RTT?

 

I considered the same options as you did. The RSI is nice but I hate the box look that doesn't follow the flow of the truck.
My main concern with a fiberglass shell is the weight I would be adding to the top of it. I have a 4 person hardshell tent that weights about 160 and with a family of 4 plus a baby I worried about the longevity of the fiberglass.
At the end of the day I chose an ARE CX HD shell as its has a metal reinforced cage inside of it that the outside crossbars connect to instead of mounting directly on the fiberglass. I also chose side windows that open up so I can easily have access to the items inside.
Should be getting my shell on the 21st of this month but here's a pic of pretty much the exact setup I chose.

 

Here's a pic of the metal cage

 

This seems like as good a thread as any to ask this question: Could I save weight by replacing my SnugTop fiberglass shell with a truss rack and RTT setup? Power loss at elevation (Denver) is a real thing. Even with 4.88's and the KDMax tune. Drove to Michigan for the 4th of July and the power difference at sea level was very noticeable. Could I get rid of my fiberglass shell, my custom built (heavy) drawer system in the bed, and replace it with a truss rack and RTT and a bed cover and save a bunch of weight?

 

Why would you go with the RLD if you had a short bed? I'm looking into these and have a short bed myself

 

most shells are around 200lbs so not too heavy. The drawer system you can switch to 80/20 instead of wood (assuming that's what you are using) depending on the weight of the rack it likely will save you space but will increase gear or containers which do start to add up. If you are running bumpers rear swing outs that will be the biggest weight area more so than the shell or rack. I have run through most recent was a shell with drawer setup and now I now have a wedge setup and it's been about the same (no heavy drawer setup but now have more containers of crap ha)

 

I was going to state this or you can also look at the commercial shells they are reinforced with aluminum along with the fiberglass and generally have high weight yield.

 

I am down the rabbit hole switching from the SnugTop shell with my custom drawer/mattress/side bin to the ReTrax tonneau and UpTOP Truss w/ CVT Mt Hood (small) wedge tent. I think I will save some weight but it will be negated when I add my rear bumper and whatever gear/bins I keep in the bed for camping. At least I can take the gear/bins out of the bed more readily than my drawer and all its contents? I'll hit the CAT scale when I'm fully loaded with the new setup and post back.

 

Def get on the cat scale you will be surprised at how much you weigh. I wish I had done it without my swing-out HC bumper that added up fast. Recently I removed all the gear/tools and spare tire and it dropped almost 500lbs. I have been seeing where I can save weight. Not being in-vehicle, half tank of gas, no spare, no gear, no skids I dropped the truck weight almost 800lbs but normally it's heavy 6500-7k total weight. if you don't have too much stuff your prob 5300-6k give or take. the rear adds a bunch.

 

I was at 6300lbs on my last trip to Moab. Water, dog, weeks worth of food, etc.
The fiberglass SnugTop with reinforced roof is 280 lbs. I had a bunch of crap up top in the back too (two awnings, privacy fold out curtain, maxtrax etc).
The custom wood drawer I built, with mattress and side bin was around 100lbs.

Now, the new RTT is 160lbs and the ReTrax Pro tonneau is 90lbs. Not sure on the UpTop Retrax Truss, but should still come in a little lower in overall weight. Before I put all my gear in the bed. But at least I can take that stuff out more readily when I am not camping? Apogee rear bumper, no swing arms, should be here in a couple more weeks, so I guess I won't really save weight, but should come out no heavier?

 

Did you say RSI ?, actually RSI has angles all around. I'm thinking you meant RLD. RLD is basically square all around. Now I'm not saying that is not good looking because RSI, RLD and Alucab cater to Overland community while the fiberglass cap manufacturers try hard to mimic the SUV lines...

 

Digging those armory wheels

 

This Demo Cap will be available at the end of the month. Black on black with sliding side windows.