Firearm BS thread

I had my 357 3" revolver selection narrowed down to the

$16 SP101 CRL "Sparkle" Cleaner and Stain Remover - 8 oz. Bottle

SP101 and when I went to pick it up I noticed a S&W model 60 - 3" in the cabinet. "Hmmmmm...let me take a look at that" I said. Both are great guns, but after handling each and especially dry firing using firing/snap caps....the trigger on the S&W sold me.

If I ever see a great deal on the SP101 - I'd pick one up.

 

I cringe when I hear "dry fire"

 

Snap caps save firing pins.

 

I had firing/snap caps...sorry I should have specified.

 

I just picked up a Ruger LCR 357 over the weekend and I shot it Tuesday when I was off what a great shooter.....

I have a S&W 640 Pro that was a daily carry gun sometimes but was heavy at almost 8 ounces more then the LCR loaded

 

Dry firing does no more wear than live firing unless you're talking rimfires, because the firing pin can actually impact the chamber. What's bad about dry firing a revolver with empty chambers? (Nothing)

 

I must build this:

 

holy shit i have a hexacopter and this would be too easy with a compact 9mm...
i even have a free channel on the receiver for a servo to actuate it

 

I love this thing I picked this up over the past weekend...

 

Use a .22 to reduce the recoil......

Also if you have a camera mounted on it, mount it above the barrel and figure out a way to get cross hairs in the camera to line up

 

Just wire in a green laser.

 

PEQ 15 would be perfect

 

Another 250 rounds put downrange with my M11A1. 800 rounds total through the pistol so far and no FTE's or other problems. Doing well on normal controlled shots, but still trying to get my first double action shot correct when I practice drawing and putting two rounds down immediately. I'm still getting within about 6''-8'' from the bullseye at 7 yards on the DA shot, but I'd rather get it closer. My second shot (single action) gets within about 2'' of bullseye most shots.

I like the "safety" feature of having my DA/SA, but it is definitely something to get used to when putting rounds out quickly.

Matt

 

What's the difference between brass vs steel vs aluminum cased bullets? Does it really matter? Primarily for range ammo

 

Seriously considering a ruger lcp for pocket carry. Any reasons to look elsewhere i can grab one for about 299.99 at academy

 

You can reload brass. It's soft and offers the most reliability and can be cleaner shooting since it expands readily to seal the chamber. Aluminum offers about the same properties except it's not usually considered reloadable. Aluminum cases aren't really common. Blazer is about the only line I know of. Steel is common in ammo produced in Russia and eastern bloc countries. These countries used to use a green lacquer coating that would flake off in chambers and cause jams. Not usually a problem in guns like AKs with loose tolerances, but often caused issues in tight chambered ARs and other guns. Most current production steel ammo is coated with a gray polymer that causes fewer issues. Steel case is usually considered bulk/plinking fodder, loaded with cheap (sometimes bi-metal) bullets and not known for accuracy. Hornady has recently tried to change that perception by having steel case ammo loaded with their components to their specifications, attempting to make ammo that is both cheap and match-ready. They've had mixed success. Steel is not readily reloadable.

Hope all that helps.

 

I refuse to run steel cased ammo through any of my guns except for my AK. Tests have been done and it's shown that barrels are shot out after 5-6 thousand rounds. Malfunctions, broken extractors, damaged magazines.

I've only gone through several boxes of aluminum cased 9mm. Ran fine, and aluminum is soft enough for me not to worry about extractors or a stuck case.

 

FWIW it will be ran through a glock. Sounds like I might stick to aluminum and brass. Thank you guys for the great responses @Polymerhead and @BadBrains

 

Picked up an SVT-40 today

It's awesome!

 

lucky...how much?