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Firemaniac's Double Cab Flat Bed, and Teardrop Trailer Overlandish Build

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by firemaniac, Mar 11, 2018.

  1. Mar 11, 2018 at 4:18 AM
    #1
    firemaniac

    firemaniac [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2013
    Member:
    #96239
    Messages:
    85
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Chris
    Northwest corner of Montana, Troy/Yaak area
    Vehicle:
    04 DC 4x4, Flatbed, auto, teardrop tugboat.
    Flatbed, Bilstein/OME 883 lifted, ARB bumper, Warn M8000, Onboard air, Onboard water system, Lights, Lights, Lights
    I will use this space to enter what has been done, and what is to come.
     
  2. Mar 11, 2018 at 4:20 AM
    #2
    firemaniac

    firemaniac [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2013
    Member:
    #96239
    Messages:
    85
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Chris
    Northwest corner of Montana, Troy/Yaak area
    Vehicle:
    04 DC 4x4, Flatbed, auto, teardrop tugboat.
    Flatbed, Bilstein/OME 883 lifted, ARB bumper, Warn M8000, Onboard air, Onboard water system, Lights, Lights, Lights
    My build per-say, started in December 2012, January 2013, when I sold my 1993 regular cab, and decided to buy a 1st gen double cab. I purchased, and brought my 2004 Tacoma home, and started driving it.



    The build progressed slowly, starting with removal of the plastic bed liner, upgrading the tires to 265/75-16 BFG AT’s, building a bed rack, and adding a couple of LED fog lights over four and a half years, and using it to pull my home built teardrop around.

    10426660_251861441672442_2029261871348880298_n.jpg

    Fast forward to August 2017, I got rear ended by a ¾ ton Cummins, while on the way to work, I drove home, Dodge was towed, my tow ball destroyed everything from the bumper to the block.


    Like I said I drove home, surprisingly the truck drove straight, no steering correction needed, no strange noises, shifts fine, stops fine, SWEET. The bed was however crumpled a bit, and the tailgate wouldent open, and the driver’s seat collapsed, as well as some light front bumper damage from being pushed into the car in front of me.

    It took me a some time to get started, because in the process of receiving an insurance check, and getting ready, and cleaning the garage, I managed to smash the crap out of my toes, Yes I have pics, no I won’t post those.

    September 2017, let’s get started! I removed the hitch, bumper, and the bed, while leaving the wiring harnesses intact. I started measuring everything I could find to measure, and it kept coming up square, EXCELLENT!
    20170825_161347.jpg


    After lots of thought, and putting some things on paper, I decided on a basic design, I wanted square, no odd angles, the bottom of the bed to be high enough, to be at the same height as the top of the original fender opening, wide enough, to match the width of the original fender flairs for good wheel coverage, length to equal the length of the original bed, plus the bumper, or very close to, and a headache rack to protect the rear of the cab. Some other things to include, on board air, and water systems, an auxiliary battery, auxiliary lighting, tie downs, fold down bed sides, and lockable storage for Maxtrax, a Hi-lift, an axe, and D handle shovel, and additional lockable storage for other recovery gear.

    For the foundation, I used s pieces of 2x2x1/4 square tube, as cross members, at the original bed mounts, and 2x6x1/4, to run the length. This gives me the height to give me the tire clearance I was looking for, as well as a section in the middle for creating the lockable cabinet for the longer things.

    20170913_144412.jpg 20170925_191446.jpg

    For the bed itself, I used 1½ x 3½ x 1/8th for the outside rails, and 1 x 3 x1/8th for the cross members. This allowed me to put ½ plywood flush, or ¾ plywood just over flush with the rails, coincidentally, ½ inch was how thick the tie down rails (L Track) are.

    20170926_122557.jpg

    On to the headache rack. I used the same 1½ x3½ I used for the outside rails. This allowed me to hide some electrical components inside of here, out of the way, but accessible by removing one panel , as well as giving plenty of surface area to mount lights. For the lights, I have independent alley lights to either side, and a set of deck/cargo lights, that also can provide additional light backing up. Also on the Headache rack, I have a pair of 45amp power pole connectors for powering my fridge, or other accessories.

    20171009_173329.jpg 20171011_162401.jpg

    As mentioned before, I wanted to have several built in features, including on board water, and air, an auxiliary battery, and lockable storage. The 12 gallon water tank, RV water pump, Viair air compressor, and Optima R51 (I think that’s the size, its designed for a Honda civic) near the front of the bed, under the main bed, and between the foundation rails. The 5 gallon air tank sits at the rear of the bed above the hitch cross bar. The water tank is filled by gravity, from a port on the left side of the headache rack, and unused water after a trip is drained from a valve under the bed next to the frame.

    20171012_181850.jpg


    For the lockable storage for recovery, and other gear, I purchased two of the smallest Jobox boxes I could find on Amazon at the time, and mounted them under the back behind the rear wheels.

    20170912_173139.jpg 20171013_180221.jpg

    Here is where I really started having fun, on the back. I mentioned previously that I wanted lockable storage for Maxtrax, and other longer things, this is where that happens. I made a door to fit between the rails with latches similar to the Jobox’s, to secure these things. The shovel, axe, and Hi-lift are held from sliding around by PVC pipe inside of that cabinet, with space for I am guessing by the measurements up to 4 pair, 8 total Maxtrax! Or possibly 2 pair of Maxtrax, and a Rotopax, or 2 depending on thickness.

    Lighting, I decided to keep the format of the original Tacoma lighting, turn signal separated from brake lights, and mount the lights in replaceable panels in case one got messed up, they would be easier to fix. I also kept a “regular” backup light (just a bit more than an indicator) to be nice to others in parking lots, and so I didn’t blind myself, hopefully, when backing up my mostly white trailer. I did also add flush mount Auxiliary backup lights to see what I am backing into in low light situations.

    The lower panel, built the same way as the light panels, holds the License plate, and lights for it, as well as my trailer connector, air, and water outlets, and a power pole connector connected to the main switch, with 2 gauge wire capable of running an 8000lb winch, in a cradle, or connecting cables to jump start another vehicle, or quickly charging the trailer battery if the 8Gauge I put in the trailer connector is not enough. The back panel also hides the 5 gallon air tank above the hitch bar, and holds the connectors for filling the air bags in the rear suspension.
    20171014_181554.jpg 20171016_202751.jpg 20171027_142458.jpg
    Is my rescue background starting to show? I might need to add a pro bar to the axe, and make it a married set of irons.

    On to the front, I purchased, and installed an ARB bumper, and Warn M8000 winch, and installed them along with a set of light cubes for fog lights, and a 20 inch bar at the top of the grill guard, and another pair of cubes, as ditch lights, on CBI Off-road brackets.

    20171108_145148.jpg

    In the cab I installed a Kenwood single din stereo, that I was able to color match to the dash in the settings of the stereo, along with a Paranoid Fabrications switch bracket, a Paranoid clock replacement switch mount, along with a whole slew of OTRATTW switches, in amber of course. I also put switches in the lower plastic, next to the power outlets, and one in the spot where the airbag switch would go in regular, and extended cabs, as well as in a switch box between the drivers seat and door.

    20171030_234425.jpg

    You probably want to know what on earth all of the switches are for. Well, currently in the airbag spot, is the 20” light bar. In the clock spot, is Winch power, and controller. Under the stereo, from left to right, are fog lights, ditch lights, left alley light, right alley light, deck/cargo lights, and backup lights, in the lower plastic, are switches for ground/rock lights, and compartment lights. Finally between the drivers seat, and door, is air compressor, and water pump switches.

    While I was in there, and since the drivers seat collapsed anyways, I replaced both of the front seats with Crobeau Sport seats, in tan, which is darker than the originals, but match the center console fairly well.


    20180111_085551.jpg

    More pics to come
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2018
    highriserkaiser likes this.
  3. Mar 11, 2018 at 5:55 AM
    #3
    firemaniac

    firemaniac [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2013
    Member:
    #96239
    Messages:
    85
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Chris
    Northwest corner of Montana, Troy/Yaak area
    Vehicle:
    04 DC 4x4, Flatbed, auto, teardrop tugboat.
    Flatbed, Bilstein/OME 883 lifted, ARB bumper, Warn M8000, Onboard air, Onboard water system, Lights, Lights, Lights
    A place to add my teardrop info
     
  4. Oct 16, 2018 at 9:05 PM
    #4
    Vnldwth

    Vnldwth Member

    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2018
    Member:
    #269655
    Messages:
    8
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Evan
    Vehicle:
    2008 Tacoma Access Cab 4x4
    +3" Toyo Coilovers, Total Chaos Upper arms, +2" Addaleaf in the rear, Fox Shocks in the rear, Currently Building a flatbed for it.
    @firemaniac This is Aweome. I recently took my bed off to treat rust, and decided I'd finally start on a flat bed. Im a 2nd gen long bed, and I want a bed that can handle 1-2 Snowmobiles or a camper build. I like the way you did your crossmembers, with the storage undernieth. How did you mount it to your frame, did you weld it directly on or did you bolt it? I'm going to try to make mine bolt on, so if I ever want to plate my frame or do some reinforcement I can without cutting. Here is a bad picture of the bare frame, you can't really tell but the rust is pretty bad.

    20181016_123157.jpg
     
  5. Oct 21, 2018 at 8:33 PM
    #5
    firemaniac

    firemaniac [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2013
    Member:
    #96239
    Messages:
    85
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Chris
    Northwest corner of Montana, Troy/Yaak area
    Vehicle:
    04 DC 4x4, Flatbed, auto, teardrop tugboat.
    Flatbed, Bilstein/OME 883 lifted, ARB bumper, Warn M8000, Onboard air, Onboard water system, Lights, Lights, Lights
    I bolted it on using the stock mounting locations, I could unbolt it, disconnect some wire harnesses, and lift it off, well myself and several people, or with an overhead lift.
     

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