first catch can oil separator installed on 3rd Gen

very true, but you have to route it somewhere or you will have an open system. The only way to keep a closed system is to put the oil separator in. This way you keep the continuous loop.

 

Wondering if someone can take a pic of their muffler pipe. This is mine at 3000kms. I want to see how much the oil separator is working

 

Mine is black inside at 1900 miles.

 

So this one is working pretty efficiently.

Thanks bud

 

I had a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland with a 5.7L Hemi. I installed an oil catch can. It worked like a champ! Every 5,000 miles I would change the oil and empty the catch can. Consistently, there would be 5 to 8 oz. of oil in it. Without the oil catch can, those "oily" vapors would have be re-introduced into the system. My Throttle Body was a lot cleaner that's for sure.

 

When I had the SRT8 Challenger I had a Diablosport catch can that I had installed. It was a great feel good investment but after having dumped some of what collected in there out, I felt even better. Do vehicles require them? No. Does it help and is it a waste of money? Yes and Probably but they arn't super expensive and are piss easy to install.

 

Did it have MDS(multi-displacement-system)?

 

Has anyone ever considered that the nasty stuff running back into the intake side of the motor actually may help lubricate the upper cylinders and extend the life of the motor? Just a thought...

 

Well I'll have a bunch of moisture in my 4 cylinder then. I take several short, under a mile trips a week. Probably ought to drive it at least till the engine is up to normal operating temperature.

 

Thank you. You just made me feel better about short tripping in town.

 

No the 2009 was the first year of the six speed and did not have MDS, only the autos did. Years later the manuals got the MDS as well.


Edit: I'm stupid and didn't read who you quoted. Still relevant though as the 6.1 had MDS based on manual/auto.

 

Yes.

 

The D4S system has sideport injectors along with the direct injection, and I have taken apart FRS engines to inspect valves with no issues with gumming up. Toyota is using new oil seperators in the valve covers for this generation and there really is no need to worry about using a catch can. I consider a catch can more of a weekend-car-with-heavy-blowby-mod. The engine has very little blowby and its engineered to handle it. There's no reason for a catch can on these trucks.

 

I hope you are being funny, there should be no oil burnt in the engine. The oil for the upper cylinder is outside the combustion chamber and valve stem seals prevents the oil from going into the combustion chamber.

 

1st I have heard of oil separators in the valve covers, its a good idea if it works. Motorcycles use them. I know I have to empty my catch can quite regularly so its catching stuff. Best part is it catches the humidity on quick drives before the engine warms up.

I guess the thing to look at is how clean your tail pipe is. If your tailpipe is black, you can be assured its quite worse in your engine. My tailpipe at 3000kms is still silver when looking inside. People can debate if you really need it, but for about 100 bucks I'm happy to have one. Its a cheap mod.

 

It's an exhaust pipe, I don't expect it to be clean. It also depends on the operating temp of the cat, short drives will make black exhaust due to unburnt fuel skipping past the cat.

I understand why some people will want it, I just want to make sure people are informed and don't think its necessary to buy a catch can. It's no different than a seat cover, lift or a winch, it makes the owner happy.

 

Tail pipe isn't that much of a smoking gun, so to speak

I run a catch can on my g8, and all 4 tips get black quite quickly. But I don't run cats, and WOT AFR is around 12.3-12.6. A lot of the soot depends on driving style. In the case of my Tacoma, the cats don't get warm enough on my short 1.5 mile trips to work

 

So, this is kind of the oil separator in the valve cover setup, but being used on a Ford F-150 Lightning (I used to own one, and this is what I used): http://www.lnsauto.com/articles/for...ford_truck_performance_20051001_article.shtml

The Ford PCV system was routed back into the intake (like all stock engines?), and this is done mainly for emission reasons from what I understand. The problem was the blower aparently caused more oil than normal to get sucked out by the PCV system (crappy valve, and maybe a bit of blow-by on stock engine, not really sure). The reason why this was important for the F-150 Lightning was the supercharger on top of the engine, with an intercooler underneath it. The intercooler would get caked up with oil, and eventually just not perform as well at heat exchanging and also limit air flow.

My take away from the experience of owning many cars at this point is that the oil/PCV problem is really an issue if you have a boosted engine, and has become an even larger problem with direct injection engines. The older EFI setup had injectors that squirt oil above the valve, so in a manner the air/fuel mixture as it goes across the valve is washing it clean. This limits the oil/carbon buildup on valves. Newer direct injection system has fuel injector squirting directly into the cylinder, so there is no air/fuel mixture washing the valve. What that means for N/A engines I am unsure, but there are many modern boosted engines with direct injection having problems with carbon buildup on valves (F150 ecoboost is good example). I am sure this can still be a bit of a problem with N/A engines, but the boosted ones seem to have had the most issues. Some manufacturers are even doing combo injection systems that have direct injectors in the cylinder and injectors in the manifold.

Honestly I wouldn't be too concerned if not running boost, but if you want to setup an oil separator and empty it out have at it. If you really want to run the best setup look at doing something like the L&S separator I linked to above, because from everything I've seen this has had the best results in engines that demand an oil separator.

JM2CW

edit: read a few more comments, seems the 2016+ have built in separators in the valve covers ... so disregard my entire post

 

I run a separator on my race car for several reasons

1. Cleaner intake improves air flow
2. Ingesting oil vapors can cause knock
3. My can has a breather that opens at WOT. Allows crankcase to keep from over pressurizing