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First gen lower ball joints

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by 98_3RZ_NIC, Jan 18, 2021.

  1. Jan 20, 2021 at 2:30 PM
    #41
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    You'll need two tools.

    The balljoint press (basically a big C clamp) and a pitman arm puller.

    The pitman arm puller is to pull the tie rod and balljoint spindles out (works on both). The BJ press is just for the upper BJ/spindle.

    As for the upper control arm and the BJ spindle, you might get lucky with just hitting it with a hammer. That didn't work for me, and I had to resort to using a 3-arm puller and wrap bailing wire around it so it doesn't pop off the UCA.

    Alternatively, you can just cut the BJ spindle right below the UCA, then stick it in a vice and hammer out the rest of the spindle with a punch or something.
     
  2. Jan 20, 2021 at 2:37 PM
    #42
    treyus30

    treyus30 cntl-y

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  3. Jan 20, 2021 at 2:38 PM
    #43
    treyus30

    treyus30 cntl-y

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    upload_2021-1-20_15-38-22.jpg
    idk why it didnt post


    Pick up some threadlocker while you're there.
     
    98_3RZ_NIC[OP] likes this.
  4. Jan 20, 2021 at 2:39 PM
    #44
    treyus30

    treyus30 cntl-y

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    I think this guy is just doing lowers
     
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  5. Jan 20, 2021 at 2:43 PM
    #45
    98_3RZ_NIC

    98_3RZ_NIC [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Bilstein 5100’s with ome 881 coils on lowest setting, JBA upper control arms, LCE header, 31x10.5x15 falken wildpeaks.
    I have after market UCA’s. I don’t need to press out that one. In the video I watched the guy didn’t do anything with the upper ball joint.
     
    jbrandt[QUOTED] likes this.
  6. Jan 20, 2021 at 2:44 PM
    #46
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    Kings, J59's Total Chaos UCAs Custom skids Sticker mod
    Yeah, I knew that lol....

    For just the lowers, all you need is the pitman arm tool. It's like a 20 minute/side job. Easy peasey.

    I since replaced my uppers with TC uniballs. no more 3 arm puller or BJ press for me!
     
    98_3RZ_NIC[OP] likes this.
  7. Jan 20, 2021 at 2:46 PM
    #47
    98_3RZ_NIC

    98_3RZ_NIC [OP] Well-Known Member

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    yeah I’m gonna replace those then go get an alignment since I just put bilsteins on and jba uca’s
     
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  8. Jan 20, 2021 at 2:48 PM
    #48
    treyus30

    treyus30 cntl-y

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    Lots of ball joint/CA threads today lol
     
    98_3RZ_NIC[OP] likes this.
  9. Jan 20, 2021 at 4:46 PM
    #49
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    How many do we need?

    N + 1
     
  10. Jan 20, 2021 at 10:52 PM
    #50
    treyus30

    treyus30 cntl-y

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    Well its a damn good thing I was involved in this thread today - it reminded me I needed to retorque the LBJ bolts and apply locktite...
    2 bolts on the driver side and 1 on the passenger side were able to be removed by hand, and both side's cotter pins were gone from the castle nut (?!?). Removed all 4 on both sides, applied blue locktite and torqued to 59ft-lbs.

    Before anyone goes blaming non-OEM, its entirely possible I don't know how to install a castle nut. Or read instructions.

    Anyway, OP, I think you'll be fine but it doesn't hurt to double check everything after a couple weeks :)
     
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  11. Jan 21, 2021 at 4:42 AM
    #51
    goldentaco03

    goldentaco03 Well-Known Member

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    Red loctite
     
  12. Jan 21, 2021 at 12:23 PM
    #52
    treyus30

    treyus30 cntl-y

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    They're 14mm bolts.

    upload_2021-1-21_13-29-51.jpg

    Pretty sure you shouldn't need a torch to replace your LBJs
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2021
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  13. Jan 21, 2021 at 12:58 PM
    #53
    goldentaco03

    goldentaco03 Well-Known Member

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    Look at product code 277 “prevents loosening due to shock, heat, or vibration” it’s a suspension component so it experiences 2 out of 3 of those criteria
     
  14. Jan 21, 2021 at 1:37 PM
    #54
    Running Board Man

    Running Board Man Well-Known Member

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    Blue don't make it harder than necessary to do routine maintnance

    Plenty, myself, and toyota included are fine not using anything other than torque to hold them in

    Keep in mind lubricated threads torque down differently
     
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  15. Jan 21, 2021 at 1:53 PM
    #55
    treyus30

    treyus30 cntl-y

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    I was debating if I should mention that also, but I couldn't remember if there was something the old bolts' threads.
     
  16. Jan 21, 2021 at 1:54 PM
    #56
    eon_blue

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    Do not use red loctite on LBJ bolts. Use blue loctite on them
     
  17. Jan 21, 2021 at 3:50 PM
    #57
    goldentaco03

    goldentaco03 Well-Known Member

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    Wait it’s a red tube...it might actually be blue threadlocker though. I’d have to check it’s been 2 years. But I don’t intend on taking those bolts out until I replace the ball joints again so if it’s red then oh well who cares. I’m not a fan of using those bolts for multiple fastening cycles since they’re what fails.
     
  18. Jan 21, 2021 at 3:52 PM
    #58
    treyus30

    treyus30 cntl-y

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    That actually sounds like it could be right
    I have red, but I used it only for my rear 5100 shock thread that worked itself completely loose somehow
     
  19. Jan 21, 2021 at 4:24 PM
    #59
    goldentaco03

    goldentaco03 Well-Known Member

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    I just looked and I have a red tube of 242 and a red bottle of 271...I think I did use the red 271 on those bolts cause I don’t intend to take them off. I also marked the heads with a paint pen so I can visually inspect them for loosening. Better safe than sorry was my logic I guess. Who knows, too many years and too many beers ago. Point is, definitely should use some kind of thread locker. The stock bolts had thread locker on them when I took them off.
     
    98_3RZ_NIC[OP] likes this.
  20. Jan 23, 2021 at 3:50 PM
    #60
    98_3RZ_NIC

    98_3RZ_NIC [OP] Well-Known Member

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    1998 white extended cab
    Bilstein 5100’s with ome 881 coils on lowest setting, JBA upper control arms, LCE header, 31x10.5x15 falken wildpeaks.
    so I just got the ball joints in the mail. I paid $260 for the pair shipped and it came with bolts, castle nut and cotter pin!
     
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