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First Oil Change

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Taco969, Mar 17, 2009.

  1. Mar 17, 2009 at 2:52 PM
    #1
    Taco969

    Taco969 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So my truck has 11,500 miles on it as of today(had it for a year and a half). So it's time for my 3rd oil change. The first 2 times I took it to the dealer and had them do it. Normally in all of my other trucks I just did it at home, but being my first new one I just brought it in. Well I was so surprised when I did it today HOW EASY EVERYTHING WAS TO GET TO!!!! By far the easiest vehicle I have changed oil on. My Cadillac CTS is easy, but being a car I can't just crawl underneath it to change. I also changed to synthetic oil now(Valvoline SYNTech), I am assuming that should be a lot better performer than the non synthetic oil the dealer uses. The only thing I noticed was the Fram filter I used was a little shorter than the factory Toyota one, is that going to affect anything?
     
  2. Mar 17, 2009 at 3:04 PM
    #2
    NAAC3TACO

    NAAC3TACO Just east of crazy

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    Color matched door handles, Weathertech floor liners, bed mat, Durafit seat covers, tailgate clamp, 2016 TRD Sport 17" wheels with Toyo A30 tires, Toyota exhaust tip, Toyota/Yakima bike rail mount, Toyota wheel locks, Toyota hitch cover.
    I would not worry about the size of the filter, but a lot of people on this forum do not like Fram oil filters. I use K & N because they filter down to 10 microns. I have no idea what the filtration rate of Fram's are. JMO.
     
  3. Mar 17, 2009 at 3:09 PM
    #3
    Taco969

    Taco969 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the input, I will keep that in mind for my next change. Where I got the filter(walmart) thats all they had. I will go somewhere else next time then, or order one. The Fram should be okay for one time of use for my 6 months though, shouldn't it? I don't drive much, or hard..
     
  4. Mar 17, 2009 at 3:10 PM
    #4
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    FlimFlubberJAM
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    Frams are not a good oil filter...they are marginal at best. Use a Toyota OEM filter. They filter great, and are less than the K&N's and Mobil 1 filters. my $0.02
     
  5. Mar 17, 2009 at 3:16 PM
    #5
    NAAC3TACO

    NAAC3TACO Just east of crazy

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    Good idea. The only reason I use the K&N is because I have the 2.7 and the nut on the end makes it easier to get off. When I did my first oil change that factory filter was a bitch. They really put that sucker on tight.
     
  6. Mar 17, 2009 at 3:59 PM
    #6
    Tacoma-Yota

    Tacoma-Yota New Member

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    Hi Team! I have been a Toyota truck person since 1992. I had a xtra-cab long bed 88, tacoma xtra-cab 94, and now 09 preRunner sport. Have used a OME toyota oil filter and have no regrets. I looked for a oil wrench to fit new truck but ended up with a adjustable wrench for removal only. It has springs for adjustment that grab and hold during removal. Oh yeah, orginal filter was super tight. Placed by cylons at factory I'm sure. Double obe-goto mr. roboto......
     
  7. Mar 17, 2009 at 4:01 PM
    #7
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    [​IMG]
     
  8. Mar 17, 2009 at 4:05 PM
    #8
    Tacoma-Yota

    Tacoma-Yota New Member

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    Chris, any problems with using OEM and synthetics? I was thinking of AMSOIL and their filter down the road, not really a pun. Forgot to add to last post.
     
  9. Mar 17, 2009 at 4:05 PM
    #9
    El Duderino 480

    El Duderino 480 "The Dude"

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    chris how about Bosch?? ive been using that since first oil change..
     
  10. Mar 17, 2009 at 4:14 PM
    #10
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    My sampls have always come back very good useing Mobil 1 and an OEM filter.

    I belive the Bosch filters are made by champion. They are a good filter, but the OEM Toyota filter has more filtering media.
     
  11. Mar 17, 2009 at 4:20 PM
    #11
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Some good general filter info:

    http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html

    Engine Oil Filter Study

    by Russ W. Knize SPECIAL FEATURES: Mopar Filters, German Filters


    [ Warning | Disassembly and Measurements | SAE Tests | Mopar Conversion Table | Conclusions ]
    [ AC Delco | AMSOIL | Car And Driver | Champ | Deutsch | Fram | Hard Driver | Mobil 1 | Motorcraft | NAPA | Pennzoil | PowerFlo | ProLine | Purolator | Quaker State | STP | Wix ]
    [ Update History | Frequently Asked Questions ]



    UPDATE: To help reduce some of my email traffic from this page, I have created an FAQ. Before emailing me with a question, please read the Oil Filter Study Frequently Asked Questions first. I typically don't respond to questions that are already answered here.
    Upcoming Filters

    Here are the filters that will be added to this page. They have already been aquired and disassembled.

    - AC Delco Ultraguard Gold PF2
    - Amsoil SDF15
    - Bosch
    - Fram HP1
    - Hard Driver HD01
    - K&N Gold
    - Penske
    - Purolator HP1/L390001
    Warning!

    These pages are NOT to be taken as gospel. The primary motivation behind this study was to provide information about what oil filter brands are made by which manufacturers. The secondary motivation was to uncover some of the obvious internal construction issues of these manufacturers. This "study" is not a "test". The SAE J806 and J1858 tests were designed to test the filtration capability of these filters, but unfortunately they have several short comings. These include issues such as anti-drainback valve functionality (valve train noise, etc.), filter element containment capability (how long before it blocks and bypasses--related to surface area), and many testimonials that appear to point in the direction of certain manufacturers. It has been my hope to shed some light in the direction of these issues. While my infamous "two eyes and common sense" approach may not be the most scientific, it is the best I could do considering there was no personal return on the investment of time and money I put into it.

    The primary shortcoming of this study is the small sampling size. I only tested the Ford 5.0L filter. It has come to my attention that some brand names use different manufacturers for different applications. Another shortcoming is the lack of testing of the filter element media itself. Unfortunately I have neither the time nor resources to do this.
    I invite anyone with the means to take a larger sampling size and conduct a more complete study, which may include private SAE tests. I also invite anyone to repeat a study similar to this one on other model filters.
    With all of that said, please make your own judgements. Use this study only as a source of some information that may give you a better idea about which filter brands to steer clear from. It should be obvious that some manufacturers are not being honest about their product. The next time you buy a filter for your car, buy two and hack one open to see what you have. My intent was to give you some information and alert you to some little-known issues, not to tell you what to think. Description

    One weekend I set out to every auto parts store in my area and bought every brand of oil filter I could find. I chose to get the filter for the early Ford 5.0L V8 engine. The reason is that this is a popular filter, it is large so that I can unveil any fake miniature internal components, and it fits on most 2.2L and 2.5L engines. Design-wise it is fully compatible with our oil systems and is an excellent replacement for the pathetic filter that was designed for our engines. I was able to find 20 different filters spanning several brand names. They are (in alphabetical order):

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    AC Delco Duraguard PF2
    AC Delco Ultraguard Gold PF2
    AMSOIL SDF15
    Baldwin B2
    Bosch ???
    Car And Driver SF-1A
    Champ
    Deutsch D539
    Deutsch D545
    Fram Extra Guard PH8A
    Fram Tough Guard TG8A
    Fram Double Guard DG8A
    Hard Driver HD01
    Mobil 1 M1-301
    Motorcraft FL-1A
    NAPA Gold 1515
    Pennzoil PZ-1
    PowerFlo SL30001
    ProLine PPL-30001
    Purolator Premium Plus L30001
    Purolator Premium Plus L390001
    Purolator Pure One PL30001
    Quaker State Q58A
    STP S-01
    Wix 51515
    I hope to add more brands to this study as I can acquire them. The analysis is sorted by brand name in alphabetical order. In each brand section, I have broken the information down into the brand name models, sorted by price. Pictures coming soon! Disassembly and Measurements

    Basically, I cut open each filter on a lathe and took measurements of many of their attributes. Simply cutting them open revealed some very interesting (and disturbing) information.

    [​IMG]
    The sections below detail each of the filters I tested. A summary of the measurements I took can be found in a table for each. I noticed that other filter part numbers for the same brand were designed a bit differently. This is probably because of the shape of the can and the requirements for that engine. Here is a description of each table entry:

    Average Retail PriceThe average of all the retail prices I found for this filter (to the nearest $0.50)Cartridge LengthThe length of the filter cartridge, including end capsCartridge Outside DiameterThe outside diameter of the filter cartridge element pleatsCartridge Inside DiameterThe inside diameter of the filter cartridge inside support tubeCartridge PleatsThe number of pleats (or folds) in the element while in the cartridgeCartridge End Cap TypeThe type of material used to construct the end capsAnti-Drainback Valve TypeThe valve design and construction materialBypass Valve TypeThe valve design and construction materialElement TypeThe type of material used to construct the filter element and the seam sealElement LengthThe overall length of the element when removed from the cartridge and stretched outElement WidthThe width of the stretched-out elementElement Surface AreaThe calculated surface area of the cartridge using the above two valuesShell ThicknessThe thickness of the metal used to construct the filter's shellBackplate ThicknessThe thickness of the metal used to construct the filter's backplateGasket TypeThe type of material used to construct the backplate sealing gasket (O-ring)Hydrostatic Burst PressureSince I cannot test this myself, I have removed this data.SAE J806 Filtration EfficiencySince I cannot test this myself, I have removed this data.SAE J1858 Filtration EfficiencySince I cannot test this myself, I have removed this data.
    The construction of the anti-drainback and bypass valves is an important feature. Many are made of nitrile rubber. As long as they have good sealing surfaces, they generally work fine. However, nitrile rubber diaphrams gets stiff in extreme cold and may fail to seal in those conditions. Silicone rubber seals or steel valves are not prone to this. Many bypass valves are spring-loaded steel and work well. Some are spring-loaded plastic and are often not molded well enough to make a decent seal, allowing oil to leak passed them.
    Probably the most important value here is the element surface area. This helps determine the amount of filter media that is available to trap particles. Cellulose media (basically paper) can trap fewer particles and can flow less oil per square inch because there are fewer passages through it. Synthetic media has more passages and can trap more particles and flow more oil than cellulose per square inch. For the same type of media, the smaller the area, the sooner the filter will become plugged and will end up bypassing much of the oil instead of filtering it. Some filters use a cellulose/synthetic blend, so a direct comparison is not possible. More pleats in the element does not necessarily mean more surface area (as you will soon see). In fact, too many pleats can end up restricting the flow too much because there is not enough space between them to allow oil to flow. Most of the cheaper filters use a mix that is mostly cellulose. Some of the better filters use synthetics or synthetic blends. I'll try to come up with some way of identifyiong these.
    [​IMG]
    The shell and backplate thickness are only relevant if your engine's oil system operates at unusually high pressures. Occasionally a seemingly strong filter can still leak due to a failure at the crimp between the can and backplate. If this happens to you, I would send it back to the manufacturer so that they can solve the problem. Even the cheapest filters have to be strong enough for stock oiling systems, or they will fail SAE tests.
    I have removed SAE filtration efficiency and all other data that came from the manufacturers, since these are often inaccurate numbers.
    Other measurements and values are debatable and I will allow you to draw your own conclusions from them. SAE Tests

    All filters have to undergo SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) tests to verify that they meet the vehicle manufacturer's specifications. There are two tests available for automobile engine oil filters. All filters must be tested with the J806 test, but the new J1858 is much more meaningful. Currently the J1858 test is optional. Really, it's a way for high-end filter manufacturers to show off their great filters.

    The SAE J806 test uses a single-pass test, checking for contaminant holding capacity, size of contaminant particles trapped, and ability to maintain clean oil. As an amendment of the J806 test, the multi-pass test also looks for filter life in hours, contaminant capacity in grams, and efficiency based on weight. The efficiency of the filter is determined only by weight through gravimetric measurement of the filtered test liquid. Typical numbers for paper filter elements are 85% (single pass) and 80% (multi-pass).
    The SAE J1858 test provides both particle counting and gravimetric measurement to measure filter capacity and efficiency. Actual counts of contaminant particles by size are obtained every 10 minutes, both upstream (before the filter) and downstream (after the filter), for evaluation. From this data filtration ratio and efficiency for each contaminant particle size can be determined as well as dust capacity and pressure loss as a function of time. Typical numbers for paper element filters are 40% at 10 microns, 60% at 20 microns, 93% at 30 microns, and 97% at 40 microns.
    NOTICE: Since all of the SAE data I have is from the manufacturers, it cannot be trusted to be truthful. Therefore all SAE data has been removed from the filter sections below. AC Delco

    Duraguard PF2

    [​IMG]The filter cartridge has a large outside diameter with deep pleats. At first glance, it appears to have little filter element media, but the surface area measure was surprising: 315 sqin. The unit had a solid top end cap because the bypass valve is at the bottom, which is a well constructed spring-loaded steel with a nitrile seal design. The nitrile rubber diaphram-type anti-drainback valve doubles as the seal between the bypass valve and the cartridge. The only drawback to this design is that the bypass valve seats metal-to-metal against the backplate. This could allow oil from the clean side of the filter to seep back into the oil pan, but it wouldn't allow the dirty oil in the filter to seep back. Oil that is in the main gallery usually leaks out through the main bearings anyway while the engine sits. One disadvantage to the AC Delco is that the anti-drainback valve seals against a rough backplate. I noticed that if I blow air through the oil outlet, air slowly leaks past the valve. Even so, I have been getting testimonials that the AC Delco stops the valve train noise problems associated with the Fram filter, so it may seal fine once it has been exposed to oil. The Wix and Purolator filters seal perfectly.

    The telltale signs for an AC Delco filter are: Five large holes for the oil inlet and 6 spot welds on the rim surrounding them. There are no crimps holding the gasket in place. When you look through the inlet holes, you can see the metal bypass valve with its 12 small holes and the black anti-drainback valve diaphragm around it. Through the center outlet hole, you can see the spring for the bypass valve.
    Exploded view: [​IMG]
    Average Retail Price$3Cartridge Length4.625 inchesCartridge Outside Diameter3.375 inchesCartridge Inside Diameter1.375 inchesCartridge Pleats36Cartridge End Cap TypeStamped steelAnti-Drainback Valve TypeNitrile rubber diaphragmBypass Valve TypeSpring-loaded steelElement TypePaper media, glued seamElement Length70.0 inchesElement Width4.500 inchesElement Surface Area315 square inchesShell Thickness0.015 inchesBackplate Thickness0.100 inchesGasket TypeNitrile rubberAMSOIL

    SDF15

    This filter has been acquired, disassembled, and is awaiting measurements.

    Baldwin

    B2

    This filter has not been acquired.

    Bosch

    ?

    This filter has been acquired, disassembled, and is awaiting measurements.

    Car And Driver

    SF-1A

    This filter is a Champion filter.


    Average Retail Price$3Cartridge Length4.000 inchesCartridge Outside Diameter3.250 inchesCartridge Inside Diameter1.625 inchesCartridge Pleats54Cartridge End Cap TypeStamped-steel, with bypass valveAnti-Drainback Valve TypeNitrile rubber diaphragmBypass Valve TypeSpring-loaded steel, nitrile sealElement TypePaper media, glued seamElement Length87 inchesElement Width3.875 inchesElement Surface Area337 square inchesShell Thickness0.012 inchesBackplate Thickness0.102 inchesGasket TypeNitrile rubberChamp

    ?

    This filter is manufactured by Champion Laboratories, Inc. (NOT the same guys who make the spark plugs), and is sold under several other brand names. Champion admits some of these outright, and they are: Lee, Lee Maxi, and STP.

    The Champion design has metal end caps on the filter cartridge, with the bypass valve stamped right into the bottom end cap like the Purolator. I refer to this as a one-piece filter cartridge. Though definitely not the same design as the Purolator, it does use the same type of leaf-spring-type spacer at the top of the cartridge and the nitrile anti-drainback valve, which doubles as the cartridge-to-backplate seal, at the bottom. One issue is that I sometimes noticed was some rust on the backplate of these filters. Since the rust is usually around by the inlet holes, any loose rust would be caught by the filter.
    The telltale signs for a Champion filter are: 6 large holes for the oil inlet, one of which is larger than the others. Only the black anti-drainback valve can be seen through the inlet holes. There are 6 large crimps holding the gasket in place. Through the center outlet hole, you can see the bypass valve spring. Usually, the backplate metal is dull, or even rusty.
    Deutsch

    D539

    This filter is a Champion filter.


    Average Retail Price$3Cartridge Length4.000 inchesCartridge Outside Diameter3.250 inchesCartridge Inside Diameter1.625 inchesCartridge Pleats55Cartridge End Cap TypeStamped-steel, with bypass valveAnti-Drainback Valve TypeNitrile rubber diaphragmBypass Valve TypeSpring-loaded steel, nitrile sealElement TypePaper media, glued seamElement Length88.5 inchesElement Width3.875 inchesElement Surface Area343 square inchesShell Thickness0.012 inchesBackplate Thickness0.102 inchesGasket TypeNitrile rubberD545

    This filter has not yet been acquired, but is apparently a heavy-duty version of the D539 (Champion).

    Fram

    These filters are manufactured by Allied Signal, Inc. See this email from an Allied Signal production engineer.
    Fram Extra Guard PH8A

    [​IMG]This filter cartridge has a small outside diameter with a rather low filter element surface area (193 sqin), and features cardboard end caps that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals the rough metal backplate to the cardboard end cap and easily leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. If you have a noisy valve train at startup, this filter is likely the cause. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak. The backplate has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow.

    The telltale signs for a Fram Extra Guard are: It has 8 small holes for the oil inlet and a thin, cheap looking backplate, and is currently stamped with a "2Y". There are 5 very small crimps holding the gasket in place. If you look into the center hole all the way to the top of the filter, you will see a kind of "button" in the end cap of the cartridge (which looks like it's made of metal from there). This is the plastic bypass valve.
    Exploded view: [​IMG]
    Average Retail Price$3Cartridge Length4.125 inchesCartridge Outside Diameter3.000 inchesCartridge Inside Diameter1.375 inchesCartridge Pleats34Cartridge End Cap TypeCardboardAnti-Drainback Valve TypeNitrile rubber diaphragmBypass Valve TypeSpring-loaded plasticElement TypePaper media, stamped metal seamElement Length47.5 inchesElement Width4.063 inchesElement Surface Area193 square inchesShell Thickness0.015 inchesBackplate Thickness0.089 inchesGasket TypeNitrile rubberFram Tough Guard TG8A

    This filter has an improved filter element with more surface area (248 sqin), a heavy silicone anti-drainback valve with a good sealing surface, the same plastic pressure relief valve but with an integral screen to keep out large particles, and enough inlet holes for good flow. In my opinion, the only real drawback to this filter is that it is capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal.

    The telltale signs for a Fram Tough Guard filter are: It has a better backplate that is usually shiny, with six larger holes for the inlet and 6 spot welds around the them. There are 6 large crimps holding the gasket in place. When you look through the inlet holes, you can see the orange anti-drainback valve. If you look into the center hole all the way to the top of the filter, you will see a kind of "button" in the end cap of the cartridge (which looks like it's made of metal from there). This is the plastic bypass valve.

    Average Retail Price$5Cartridge Length4.125 inchesCartridge Outside Diameter3.000 inchesCartridge Inside Diameter1.625 inchesCartridge Pleats50Cartridge End Cap TypeCardboardAnti-Drainback Valve TypeSilicone rubber diaphragmBypass Valve TypeSpring-loaded plastic with integral screenElement TypePaper media, stamped metal seamElement Length61.0 inchesElement Width4.063 inchesElement Surface Area248 square inchesShell Thickness0.015 inchesBackplate Thickness0.187 inchesGasket TypeNitrile rubber, PTFE-treated
    [​IMG]Far Left: extra guard cartridge. Left: Double Guard. Right: Tough Guard
    Fram Double Guard DG8A

    This is one of the most expensive filters you can buy. Inside is a basic Fram Extra Guard (PH8A) filter element that has larger diameter holes at the end and has been pre-oiled. You can see this in the picture above (far left). I assume this is to hold the Teflon particles in the filter element before the unit is installed. Don't put Teflon in your engine. It does not belong there! DuPont does not recommend using their Teflon product in internal combustion engines.

    Although it has the lowest filter element surface area (193 sqin), it does have a clever spring-loaded nitrile rubber anti-drainback valve and bypass valve combination.
    The telltale signs for a Fram Tough Guard filter are: It has a better backplate that is usually shiny, with six larger holes for the inlet and 6 spot welds around the them. The backplate should be stamped with a "1K". There are 6 large crimps holding the gasket in place. The anti-drainback valve diaphragm behind the inlet holes is black. If you look into the center hole all the way to the top of the filter, you will not see the "button" in the end cap of the cartridge (which looks like it's made of metal from there).

    Average Retail Price$10Cartridge Length4.125 inchesCartridge Outside Diameter3.000 inchesCartridge Inside Diameter1.625 inchesCartridge Pleats38Cartridge End Cap TypeCardboardAnti-Drainback Valve TypeNitrile rubber diaphragmBypass Valve TypeNitrile rubber, integralElement TypePaper media, stamped metal seamElement Length47.5 inchesElement Width4.063 inchesElement Surface Area193 square inchesShell Thickness0.015 inchesBackplate Thickness0.187 inchesGasket TypeNitrile rubberHard Driver

    HD01

    This filter has been acquired, disassembled, and is awaiting measurements.


    Average Retail Price$8.50 + $4 shippingCartridge Length? inchesCartridge Outside Diameter? inchesCartridge Inside Diameter? inchesCartridge Pleats?Cartridge End Cap Type?Anti-Drainback Valve Type?Bypass Valve Type?Element TypeSynthetic mediaElement Length? inchesElement Width? inchesElement Surface Area? square inchesShell Thickness? inchesBackplate Thickness? inchesGasket Type?Hydrostatic Burst Pressure200 psiSAE J806 Filtration EfficiencyUnknownSAE J1858 Filtration Efficiency95% at 10 microns
    98% at 20 microns
    98% at 30 microns
    98% at 40 micronsMobil 1

    M1-301

    Like the Champ filter, this filter is made by Champion Labs. However, it uses a unique end plate and a thicker can that make it the strongest filter available for wide distribution retail sale. It also uses a synthetic media, which inproves filtration and flow. I'm happy to say that this filter is NOT a fake. It is definitely a unique design.

    It uses a synthetic fiber element that can filter out very small particles and is very strong. It is rated just under the Purolator Pure One as far as filtering capability, but is still very much above conventional paper filters. It also has a very strong construction to withstand high pressure spikes during start-up. However, as with all Mobil 1 products, expect to pay 2 - 3 times as much for this filter.
    I have received many reports of these filters failing at high pressures. It seems that the seam where the backplate crimps to the case can split.
    Exploded view: [​IMG]
    Average Retail Price$10Cartridge Length4.250 inchesCartridge Outside Diameter3.250 inchesCartridge Inside Diameter1.625 inchesCartridge Pleats52Cartridge End Cap TypeStamped-steel, with bypass valveAnti-Drainback Valve TypeNitrile rubber diaphragmBypass Valve TypeSpring-loaded steel, nitrile sealElement TypeSynthetic media, glued seamElement Length85 inchesElement Width4.125 inchesElement Surface Area351 square inchesShell Thickness0.022 inchesBackplate Thickness0.138 inchesGasket TypeNitrile rubberMopar

    This section has moved to it own page:

    Oil filter Study Special Model Feature: Mopar Motorcraft

    Long Lasting FL-1A

    This is an interesting filter. Basically, it is a Purolator Pure One filter cartridge in a Purolator Premium Plus case. Don't be fooled by the differently shaped holes cut into the oil inlet. This is the only difference. This is a good filter design and if you want to get a Purolator Pure One filter, get this one instead: it is cheaper.

    Like the Purolator Pure One, this filter cartridge features a very large element surface area (400 sqin), but with many pleats (64). This packs the filter together rather tightly and may restrict flow somewhat. I could identify the Pure One element media by a purple dye they use at the seam. It also has the mysterious assembly string wrapped around the outside of the element. Like the Purolators, it features a spring-loaded metal bypass valve and a nitrile rubber diaphram-type anti-drainback valve. The bypass valve is stamped right into the bottom end cap of the cartridge, so it is all one piece.

    Average Retail Price$3Cartridge Length4.125 inchesCartridge Outside Diameter3.250 inchesCartridge Inside Diameter1.625 inchesCartridge Pleats64Cartridge End Cap TypeStamped-steel, with bypass valveAnti-Drainback Valve TypeNitrile rubber diaphragmBypass Valve TypeSpring-loaded steelElement TypePaper media, stamped metal seamElement Length100.0 inchesElement Width4.000 inchesElement Surface Area400 square inchesShell Thickness0.011 inchesBackplate Thickness0.120 inchesGasket TypeNitrile rubberNAPA

    1515 Gold

    This filter is a Wix filter with the two-piece filter cartridge. As with the Wix filter, the metal bypass valve seats on the metal cartridge end cap with no gasket of any kind. Some small amount of oil probably leaks through there. It also has the tougher paper filter media of the Wix.


    Average Retail Price$5Cartridge Length4.000 inchesCartridge Outside Diameter3.250 inchesCartridge Inside Diameter1.625 inchesCartridge Pleats59Cartridge End Cap TypeStamped-steelAnti-Drainback Valve TypeNitrile rubber diaphragmBypass Valve TypeSpring-loaded steel, nitrile sealElement TypePaper media, glued seamElement Length87 inchesElement Width3.875 inchesElement Surface Area337 square inchesShell Thickness0.014 inchesBackplate Thickness0.104 inchesGasket TypeNitrile rubber51515 Silver

    This filter now appears to be a Wix filter. I'm not sure if there is any real difference between this filter and the NAPA Gold filter.

    Pennzoil

    PZ-1

    This filter is a Fram Extra Guard (PH8A) in every way, shape, and form. The only difference is the yellow paint and Pennzoil logo.

    All the measurements were exactly the same as the Fram Extra Guard PH8A.

    Average Retail Price$2Cartridge Length4.125 inchesCartridge Outside Diameter3.000 inchesCartridge Inside Diameter1.375 inchesCartridge Pleats34Cartridge End Cap TypeCardboardAnti-Drainback Valve TypeNitrile rubber diaphragmBypass Valve TypeSpring-loaded plasticElement TypePaper media, stamped metal seamElement Length47.5 inchesElement Width4.063 inchesElement Surface Area193 square inchesShell Thickness0.015 inchesBackplate Thickness0.089 inchesGasket TypeNitrile rubberPowerFlo

    SL30001

    As you may suspect by the part number, this filter is a Purolator Premium Plus. There were no manufacturing differences, but the cost was an average of $2 instead of $3.

    ProLine

    PPL-30001

    Yet another Purolator Premium Plus. All measurements were the same. The cost was $2. One thing I noticed with this particular example was that the mysterious assembly string was tied too tight and had damaged the filter element. Although only this one had the problem, I am suspicious of this filter design as a whole (including all of the Purolators).


    [​IMG]
    <- With String - String Removed -> [​IMG]



    As you may be able to tell, the string did not rip into the filter element, it only crushed it. There was no evidence that the element had been compromised. Out of the 8 Purolators (and clones) tested, this was the only one with a problem.
    Purolator

    Premium Plus L30001

    [​IMG]Left to Right: Motorcraft, Purolator Pure One, Purolator Premium Plus

    Here is a fairly well designed filter, especially for the price. One odd thing about Purolator's filters is a string that is always wrapped around the filter element. I assume that this is there to hold the element in place while the glue in the end caps cures. Of all the Purolator-based filter I tested, there was one (the ProLine) that had filter element damage from this string. Although it was one of five tested, I am weary of this design. Even though the element was crushed a bit, it was not ripped. I will take apart a used one at my next oil change.
    The filter cartridge has an impressive surface area of 316 sqin, which is very close to the AC Delco Duraguard. The difference is that Purolator's filter element is compressed into more pleats (51) than the AC Delco. This may restrict flow somewhat, but not as much in this model than the Pure One. It features a spring-loaded metal bypass valve and a nitrile rubber diaphram-type anti-drainback valve, which doubles as the seal between the backplate and the cartridge. Like the Champion, this bypass valve is stamped right into the bottom end cap of the cartridge, so it is all one piece.
    The telltale sign for a Purolator filter are: 8 medium-sized holes for the oil inlet and nothing but a black (or orange for the Pure One) diaphragm to be seen through them. There are 6 large crimps holding the gasket in place. Through the center outlet hole, you can see the spring for the bypass valve.
    Exploded view: [​IMG]
    Average Retail Price$3Cartridge Length4.125 inchesCartridge Outside Diameter3.250 inchesCartridge Inside Diameter1.625 inchesCartridge Pleats51Cartridge End Cap TypeStamped-steelAnti-Drainback Valve TypeNitrile rubber diaphragmBypass Valve TypeSpring-loaded steelElement TypePaper media, stamped metal seamElement Length79.0 inchesElement Width4.000 inchesElement Surface Area316 square inchesShell Thickness0.011 inchesBackplate Thickness0.115 inchesGasket TypeNitrile rubberPure One PL30001

    This filter has a few improvements over the Premium Plus. It has a denser synthetic filter media to filter out smaller particles and more surface area to make up for the flow restriction. Aside from those the cartridge is the same construction as the Premium Plus.

    The filter cartridge has an even more impressive surface area of 400 sqin. The potential issue is that this filter element is compressed into even more pleats (64) than the Premium Plus. This may restrict flow more than it helps relieve it. It also features a spring-loaded metal bypass valve and a silicone rubber diaphram-type anti-drainback valve, which doubles as the seal between the backplate and the cartridge. The bypass valve is located at the base of the cartridge, not at the top.

    Average Retail Price$5Cartridge Length4.125 inchesCartridge Outside Diameter3.250 inchesCartridge Inside Diameter1.625 inchesCartridge Pleats64Cartridge End Cap TypeStamped-steelAnti-Drainback Valve TypeSilicone rubber diaphragmBypass Valve TypeSpring-loaded steelElement TypeSynthetic media, stamped metal seamElement Length100.0 inchesElement Width4.000 inchesElement Surface Area400 square inchesShell Thickness0.011 inchesBackplate Thickness0.115 inchesGasket TypeNitrile rubber, PTFE-treatedQuaker State

    QS8A

    This filter has changed from being a Purolator to a Fram Extra Gaurd. This may have been a result of Pennzoil aquiring Quaker State brand name.

    STP

    S-01

    This filter is the Champion Industries filter.


    Average Retail Price$3Cartridge Length4.000 inchesCartridge Outside Diameter3.250 inchesCartridge Inside Diameter1.625 inchesCartridge Pleats58Cartridge End Cap TypeStamped-steel, with bypass valveAnti-Drainback Valve TypeNitrile rubber diaphragmBypass Valve TypeSpring-loaded steel, nitrile sealElement TypePaper media, glued seamElement Length93 inchesElement Width3.875 inchesElement Surface Area360 square inchesShell Thickness0.012 inchesBackplate Thickness0.102 inchesGasket TypeNitrile rubberHydrostatic Burst PressureUnknownSAE J806 Filtration EfficiencyUnknownSAE J1858 Filtration EfficiencyUnknownWix

    These filters are manufactured by the Dana corporation, who also manufactures all of the Wix clones. These include NAPA and many OEM filters.

    [​IMG]
    This filter has metal cartridge end caps, but has a separate bypass valve that rests against the bottom end cap, like the AC Delco. I refer to this as a two-piece filter cartridge. Like the Champion, it uses an anti-drainback valve that doubles as the bypass valve-to-backplate seal. Instead of the leaf-spring-type spacer that most filters use, these use a stiff coil spring at the top of the cartridge. Like the Purolator, the filter element paper media is stronger than the Champion media. The only drawback to this design is that the bypass valve seats metal-to-metal against the bottom cartridge end plate. This could allow dirty oil to seep from the dirty side to the clean side of the filter, bypassing the element. The design will not allow oil to seep back into the pan, though.
    The telltale signs for a Wix are: 6 large holes for the oil inlet with only the black anti-drainback valve to be seen through them. There are 6 "notches" that hold the gasket in place. Through the center outlet hole, you can see the bypass valve spring. Usually the backplate metal is shiny. 51515

    This filter features a good surface area, but a lot of shallower pleats. This makes it similar to the Purolator's pleats.

    [​IMG]
    Average Retail Price$5Cartridge Length4.000 inchesCartridge Outside Diameter3.250 inchesCartridge Inside Diameter1.625 inchesCartridge Pleats61Cartridge End Cap TypeStamped-steelAnti-Drainback Valve TypeNitrile rubber diaphragmBypass Valve TypeSpring-loaded steel, nitrile sealElement TypePaper media, glued seamElement Length90 inchesElement Width3.875 inchesElement Surface Area349 square inchesShell Thickness0.014 inchesBackplate Thickness0.104 inchesGasket TypeNitrile rubberHydrostatic Burst PressureUnknownSAE J806 Filtration EfficiencyUnknownSAE J1858 Filtration EfficiencyUnknownConclusions
     
  12. Mar 17, 2009 at 4:51 PM
    #12
    WilsonTheDog

    WilsonTheDog Kylie's dad

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    Eric
    Myrtle Beach SC
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    07 Prerunner SR5 DC/SB V6
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    I would use OEM or Purolator Pure One. I'm currently back to using the Purolator because I've had very good results in past oil studies, though they were on my Altima. I haven't done any on the Tacoma but I am using the same ingredients as on the Altima: Pennzoil Platinum and the Pure One filter.
     
  13. Apr 7, 2009 at 7:21 AM
    #13
    SgtImaPepper

    SgtImaPepper Active Member

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    TMI
    Little Rock
    Vehicle:
    Base model, silver streak mica
    Pioneer 3200DVD.
    Hey what all did you need to change the oil in your truck?
     
  14. Apr 7, 2009 at 8:17 AM
    #14
    Climb14er

    Climb14er Member

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    FWIW, I've never had an oil related problem in all of my vehicles stretching back to a 1971 VW Bug.

    Have used the best oils I could find, Castrol GTX, Mobil One, Delo and Delvac in my diesels and now Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic.

    Have also used OEM filters and Purolator Pure One, and sometimes a Fram years ago.

    Oil change and products associated with doing 'em have always been a bone of contention on many of the forums.

    I've been changing the oil in my pickups and 4Runners at 7500 mile intervals when using full synthetic and OEM filters.

    Again, never had an oil related problem.

    Your water pump, alternator, tranny, electrical system, moonroof, window's electrical components will go bad before your engine if you just change the oil with good stuff and use an OEM filter.

    Have fun and enjoy your vehicle! ;)
     
  15. Apr 7, 2009 at 5:52 PM
    #15
    SgtImaPepper

    SgtImaPepper Active Member

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    Base model, silver streak mica
    Pioneer 3200DVD.
    Thanks, I will.
     
  16. Apr 7, 2009 at 6:20 PM
    #16
    BornMexican

    BornMexican Well-Known Member

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    Lake Jackson
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    Do you get the OEM oil filter from the dealer?? I would imagine that you would pay a premium if you get it from them. Any other place to get it for a more reasonable price??
     
  17. Apr 7, 2009 at 6:37 PM
    #17
    FoxRacR17

    FoxRacR17 Well-Known Member

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    Fox 2.5 C/O's, Fox 2.0 rear shocks, toytec 1.5" AAL, TC UCA's, blue/white dashboard lights, seatbelt chime removed, Synthetic leather armrests, WO seat covers front and back, Goodyear Wranger Duratrac 285/70/17, KMC XD Addict 17x9 rims
    Hey guys I'm a new guy here, finally joined in on the Tacoma crowd and bought my first tacoma a week ago today. Brand new '09 4x4 DC manual tranny. I love it, already got 400 miles on it. Anways I registered because I wanted to ask something and I thought this thread would be the best. Is there any sort of "break in" period where I need to change out the oil that originally came with truck? I know that most new cars have a special oil that you have to change after a certain amount of miles, and I couldnt find anything in the manual about it.
     
  18. Apr 7, 2009 at 6:38 PM
    #18
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    FlimFlubberJAM
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    4.10 gears, sliders, and lots of buttons.
    Engine break in is done at the factory. No special oil change required. :)
     
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