First Tacoma Retrofit

i know that lol i wanted others on this site to check them out because apparently searching on the interwebs is to much for them .

but, seriously when comparing the H1 to the d2s the difference is crazy but, for some reason guy's on here always seem to go with the d2s it makes no sense to me.

the H1 is far superior projector from a performance stand point imo. so i thought some pics of those awesome lights you had put together would help guy's who don't have a lot of experience choose the better projector.

either way those look great man nice work

 

Our bulb sizes are the same so if you can retro a 2nd gen you can do a 1st.

 

i have d2s because on my DD (Infiniti) because they are smaller and have imo the best highbeam. but as for low beam the h1 blows it away

 

Directly quoted from Matt at TRS here: http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/sho...H1-vs-Mini-D2S&p=351643&viewfull=1#post351643

 

agreed.

the high beam has a little more structure on the d2's than the H1 has. i have ran both in my truck and thought the H1's still killed in every aspect though.

the low beam was a good bit wider thats one thing i did notice straight off.

i wonder why trs has the d2's designed in such a way that they don't produce a beam like the H1

i'm sure there must be some reason but, the d2's can run the better quality bulbs oem philips and such so you would think they would have made them perform a little better thats always kind of confused me.

on an unrelated note those look great man and if you began to offer this service for other members i think you could make a good bit of cash doing so.

 

i go by what i can see not by what someone tells me.

jvx driver has that projector shoot out and he has a head to head of the H1 mini and the TL projector which is one of the best bi-xenons available.

now minus the foreground limiter to me the mini is right there with it. my d2's at least the ones i had in my rig and i had 2 sets of the d2s btw. neither of them where even close to being as wide or as colorful as the H1s i had later on.

i do like the d2s bulb however so that i fully agree with but, thats where matt loses me

i have had almost every projector worth having in my truck at one time or another over the last year and a half. mini H1's d2s LS460's fx-rs and i can say from my point of view the H1 was up there man imo considerably wider and more colorful than the d2.

i should also say that i have spent a good deal of time on the phone matt nate and andrew over at trs and they are all awesome guy's. they sell great products and we wouldn't even be having the conversation with out them so i'm not meaning to sound like a dick and or say they don't know something when in fact they are the ones producing and selling them on a daily basis.

but, they sell parts they do not professionally retrofit them. i have become friends with a professional guy who has done probably a thousand retros and a lot of this info i got from him and from my first hand experience. i have also done at least 10 by this point myself on my truck alone.

it depends on what you want i guess. don't get me wrong both minis are great their price and performance for either is impossible to beat but, imo one is considerably better than the other at least to my eyes.

 

Mini H1:


Mini D2s:


E55 (what I have):


From this thread: http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/sho...Output-Comparison-TL-E55-Murano-FX-IS-e46-LR3

 

thought you had fx-rs


http://jvxdriver.com/Mini H1 vs. Oem TL with Clear Lens.htm

^ this is what i was referring to. i don't think he had modded the H1 in any way to get it to perform this way either.

i can say i had the last gen d2's in my truck so i can't speak to the new ones but mine where no where near this wide and colorful.

maybe the new ones are different

 

nah I got my e55s from a wrecked E class Mercedes for $57

 

dam dude! 50 bucks is pretty good deal

did you swap for clear lenses and stuff?

i'm almost positive my bmw had those projectors. they where pretty nice right from the factory. a guy i know had made a hybrid out of a bosch e46 and they are beautiful.

i'll have to ask him what parts he used next time i see him. i know he swapped the reflector and the lens and played around with the shield and bulb spacing. freaking took him like 2 weeks lol but, man those things woke up big time i was truly shocked.

the fx-r supposedly has the most color of any bi-xenon and mine where even modded for more. his are crazy even when compared to mine and the width of his now are on par with mine. i should have got some pics of this lol he drives a honda civic si sedan its nice little car.

its tricky to mod for color you almost always end up losing sharpness along the cut off but, his looks every bit as sharp as mine maybe more so.

 

I installed my retros a few weeks ago and bearly washed it yesterday and now I got a foggy headlight... what am I suppose to do..??
should I open it again or what do you guys recommend..??

 

well fog usually comes from the housing being too much sealed. you need to let the breather hole be open from behind. if you have water than it's the seals.. mostlikely from the bulb wires

 

I've allways completely sealed mine and I've never had an issue with moisture... I've done abot 17 sets of headlights. If anything I do believe that if they are not sealed correctly you are in for a bit of moisture.

 

I would take the two little round plastic pieces and round rubber piece off. Take your headlight inside your house and try blow drying inside the light for like 10 min. After that just let it air dry over night. In the morning move it around making sure you got all watter out of the headlight. If so run a bead of silicone around the light where the light meets the housing. Make sure it dries then put it back together and hope for the best. Good luck.

 

you dont recomend me open it up again to seal it good.... and do you recommend for it to be fully sealed..?? exept for the thos two little round plastics..

 

If you're up for it, I would deff open it back up and reseal. When I do mine I run a good silicon bead around the housing. I try to run the silicon in the inside of the chanal so when I do put them back together I don't get a lot of extra silicfloor oping out of the light. I hope I didn't confuse you.

 

depending on how bad the condensation is i would remove the lights from the truck being careful not to rest the headlight face down that way water will not hit the inside lens. then open up all the vents pop the bulb out let them air out naturally.

also you should heat the lights up a tad and with your hands squeeze the front lens on to the rear of the housing firmly making sure the lens makes a good seal all the way around the light when your confident you have done this to an obscene amount.

take some silicon your color choice and neatly and precisely go around the entire outside of the light. this will be your first barrier against moisture and the butyl rubber your second.

also in the rear of the housing pop off the rubber boot check its fit around the d2s or amp style plug/s and take a tiny amount of silicon and apply it to the edge of the boot before pushing it back on the rear of the housing firmly. then fit your plugs and butyl rubber as needed to ensure there is no gaps or areas where moisture could make its way in. this includes around the parking and turn signal plugs as most aftermarket housings have some wiggling going on a little butyl rubber stretched and smeared around with your finger will seal it up good and its easily removable if need be.

do not seal up the vent holes use the supplied caps and gently push them on this leaves a space for the light to equilibriate to outside humidity levels on hot or cold days.

when this is all done leave the vents open and the turn signal bulbs out for another couple hours around 8 to be safe to ensure that when you seal it up your not going to be trapping any moisture inside the light at all that may be left over from before or some from the silicon as it does contain a little moisture that can fog a housing all in itself.

also keep in mind that in the cold weather the humidity is actually higher and when you run the lights the heat will bring even ambient moisture to the lens that does not mean theres a leak it simply means that the environment inside the light could have a higher humidity than out. this is if your getting a tiny little bit in the corners and suchnot the collecting droplets forming on the inside of the lenses.

either way if you do this i'm sure it will fix any issue and nothing is permanent silicon can be removed later if you need to get at the rear or to get your lens off again.

from a guy who has done a bunch of retrofits and has seen some moisture problems from others this is the first step the last is jb weld lol. that is extreme but, in 99.999% of cases i have seen it works.

 

Hey Stuntman,

So I actually just did the MH1 retro a couple of weeks ago, along with the new "micro-controller" H4 Bi-Xenon harness....And every time that I switch from bi-xenon mode back to regular xenon, the lights cut off for a split second! WTF?

I've already contacted TRS and have received a replacement micro controller but it is still acting this way...what do YOU think is going on here?

P.S. I have condensation in my headlights also. lol. Actually, it's no shit water now (car wash). I guess I'll heat them up and reseal them and put some silicone around the H4 rubber boot too.

 

Nice job. I might have to have you do my lights. Have you passed through DEQ with a set of these yet?

 

pm me if you have questions i don't want to clog the ops thread more than i already have lol.