fit 35's?

haven't gotten traction in the thread(s) want to ask here in hopes of hearing some answers

How do you figure out exactly what to trim inside fenders, if anything?
I've found many different choices. 1". 2". But no explanation on what is right, or how to figure out.

I think that's because setups can vary so much, based on what specific wheel offset you have, etc.
Or if you even run just fenders (without flares); most people run flares attached, which hides any inside cutting.

Current parts:
-JDfab LCA pivots, somewhat moves it forward
-JDfab UCA's; I hear most upgraded non-adjustable UCA's move a bit backward
-Method 701, 17x8.5, offset: 0, spacing: 4.75"
-Kenda Klever 35x10.50r17
-ARB front bumper

pausing post to put more info and add pics


I have no problem taking some metal off the fenders and want to do that anyway, to get some more room and a nice clean edge to put edge trim.
At rear bottom of front fenders, it goes back about an inch before the cab mount. Unless getting a CMR, I'm guessing start with 1" front and rear to keep it even.

So right now that is my plan.
Tape and mark fenders 1" back, cut with jigsaw.
Make sure front bumper installed per ARB guidelines; unfortunately they say hang it low to allow room for flexing during recovery. I believe 10-15mm gap.
After cutting fenders with jigsaw, for appearance will find where ARB top meets (overhangs) the fender, tape mark and cut with grinder.
Not inch(es) evenly off the bumper, but a triangle cut at an angle. To avoid cutting into the crash reinforcement brace that's hidden inside it at the bottom.

And to get it re-aligned. Camber is 0, toe is 0.
Caster I think around +1.
But obviously given LF rubs cab mount and RF doesn't, that tells me LF is not as positive.

Two other problems I need to address ASAP
1. springs are stock 6112. Need to swap HD's on (bumper) and possibly set to higher clips. To compensate for Taco lean. And higher ride height means better tire clearance. Hopefully setting them to higher clips doesn't result in worse ride, less downtravel (if that even matters), and positive camber. Or, if positive, hopefully a small acceptable amount.
But I can start cutting before then.

I will see if I can figure out what inches C4 advises in their new aluminum Splash Shield Kit. They mail vinyl templates with it to cut. But I think it's minimal, more focused on 3rd gens, and may not include cutting inside metal fender.

 

Here is a good start.....
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...g-now-adding-long-travel-and-934-cv’s.626274/

 

I already asked there

 

No worries, just trying to point you in the correct direction. @81Trekker is on point and does quality work on his fabrication and mods. Send him a pm.

 

The best thing to do is cycle the suspension and go from there.

 

I was thinking about this. I just didn't know if there's any good rule of thumb like "cut 2 inches"

it is easier to cut 1", than to yank out the coils to cycle it (I hear they need to be removed to do that)
because the fenders are so low, cycling might not even tell me how many inches to cut, just "holy shit this hits a lot"
Or maybe that means take a step-by-step approach in increments, cutting 1" off at a time as needed, until the rubbing stops?

I figure if it had 33's,
and 35's are 1" taller per side of the tire,
that it can only make it look better to cut back 1" off the fenders, then re-evaluate from there

I could run a ruler carefully by hand all around the fender, marking with sharpie (over tape) then cut with jigsaw
I do plan to cycle it regardless, don't get me wrong
but given the hours it would take to pull the coils out, versus just firing up a jigsaw, I feel like starting with 1" cut on all 4 corners would be a good "step one"
It sounds much faster, easier, and straight forward to run a jigsaw 1" than to take apart the front suspension right now to find out what to some extent, I already know.

Don't get me wrong. It may end up needing more later on when testing full stuff.
The typical things like CMC (they say CMR is better)
Only CMR used to be DRT who claims to be the best. Now C4 has their own that looks identical. There's probably only one way to make such a part.
And the other typical things people do, such as:
-hammer inward to bend flat the pinch welds using mini sledge possibly wrapped in a T_shirt
-doing a CMR gives you more room at the bottom to hammer that part of the pinch weld

In fact, C4 comes as a whole kit, to include their templates, shields, and CMR.

Maybe I should trim 1" fenders, angle trim bumper, get alignment with maximum positive caster even on both sides
be sure it has the HD front springs
ride height set click 1 higher on left versus right to compensate for Taco lean
and then see if I should max their clicks at 5, or dial back one at 4.
I've heard 6112 prefers a max of 4.
Then see what the camber is.
THEN cycle it and cut more if needed?

I mean doing a CMR preventatively would look fantastic. I need to figure out what they're supposed to cost.
I found a place charging $1k for CMR and buddy who has one told me that's not normal, that his fab guy price was different. Local dude who does these installs, but is booked out a month.

 

If you only want to cut only what's needed then cycling the suspension is the route. Generally 2-3" is enough depending on how much you bump up travel, wheel offset etc...again depending on how much you limit up travel will determine how much of the actual firewall/wheel well itself needs tubbing as well.

 

It’s not just the outside fender that will rub at full bump or compression but also the inside. Cutting the outside only solves half the fender problem. This is with 33’s and gets worse with larger tires like 35’s.

 

I've heard people also put spacers in their bumpstops sometimes

Or, that ideal offset is -12, but for whatever reason I don't think these Methods have that
whereas I believe "5th gen 4runner TRD PRO style" wheels do have that offset.
But they are not bead grip.
My hand fits easily between the tire and UCA BJ, which tells me it might have a bit too much negative offset than ideal, but not a ton.

It was just confusing determining how to cut,
because any post online I find about it, is people posting how much they cut their outside plastic flare clipped onto the fender (an appearance part)
without stating how much they cut the actual metal fender, if anything

Coastal Tacoma I believe did 35"
2.5" cut fender front, 1" cut rear
no flares
said this was extra and likely less cut would have worked






As we all know, a stock Tacoma has rake designed into the suspension ride height
Not only that, but from what I've seen, rake is even designed into the factory fender cut level, to the point they are cut lower, more material remaining in the fronts, giving the appearance of rake (kind of ugly) at the cost of more metal closer to hit the tire

which would explain why despite him in the pics above cutting an "uneven" amount (2.5 front 1 rear) that it simply made the truck look even and level.
I've also noticed this any time I do FTG measurements (fender to ground) with a tape measure.
Even if the front spring is the same, or higher than the rear
it will measure lower because the fender is lower, as the measuring point for the tape measure.

I will see. The Methods offset is slightly outward. And the tires are skinny.
Spidertrax spacers in whatever size can always be added. That will space farther away from the inside but unfortunately, at the cost of making it turn closer to front and rear of the well.
Spacers that if I'm not mistake, even become required if doing Archive relocate longer shocks in the rear (12"/14" 2.0/2.5)

From the video's I've seen, posters claim the bulk majority of issues come from the cab mount on stock lower pivots

I am hoping fabricated Inner Fenders do not become necessary until something like a 37 or long travel
From what I have seen, most people pull off 35's with just some cutting and hammering.

 

It takes a few weeks of driving and a crapton of trimming, a few dozen times lol.

 

Maybe when I get to the point of cycling (don't know how you'd even do that in the rear) it can let me find out what's needed
before breaking something flexing on a trail

I just noticed, the C4 kit appears to end up being cut (fender) exactly where the "Toyota triangle" (let's call it) ends.
To remove any protruding.
IDK what it's real name is. But basically any time you get a steel front, or at least an ARB, it reveals that ugly triangle, which is why the instructions included say during install, scuff it up and paint it black to hide it.

I think I'm gonna measure out to the triangle, trim excess, then copy that on the rear so both fenders look the same, start at that and go from there.



bumper I'm obviously gonna have to use a grinder due to thick metal

fenders, I have a right angle cutoff tool and grinder,
don't know if those are good enough, or if it's worth using a jigsaw for potentially more control and straight cut. Unless the reciprocating motion of a jigsaw (opposed to a circular wheel) yanks and rips on the metal...

 

Fenders and flares wise, just cut 2". Everything else you'll have to cycle to know

 

Thanks. I was scared to jump the gun and do a bunch of extra shit it may not actually need preemptively,
or accidentally cut 3" and go "oh shit, I could have just cut 1 inch"

but if I had to guess by looking at the above C4 pic before I go look at the truck again, I *think* the "toyota triangle" would result in about 2" of cut. So you're probably right.
At this point, 1" would likely be small, negligible, a waste of work
and leave a big ugly fender with no tire gap making it look more like a streetcar than a truck
2" will probably mimic a stock or close to stock clearance gap

I think a cut only starts to look goofy, if for example it would be a 3" lift truck, cut, on 31's
similar to these:

 

1st is a 35 with a lift spindle with 1” of clearance from the fender at full bump.

2nd is a 33 with outer fender cut around 2” and there are rub marks on inner fender at full bump

1st photo is for reference of what 4 inches of lift can do in a 2wd situation

 

Might just start with 1” fenders cut
Angle trim bumper to that

not much room at the bottom to cut, like max 2”
Can always cut more again later

the “Toyota triangle” sticks farther from the fender than I thought. Over 3”

 

Pinch weld and that portion needs the assistance of a BFH.

 

picked up a Jigsaw gonna see if one single BiMetal blade can do all 4 fenders

hammer got a 4lb anti vibe sledge will try that wrapped in a shirt

 

Definitely need a fine blade or finish off with a sander or edge trim.

I had to use a 40lb demo hammer to fold those pinch welds as my lighter hammers didnt do much and didnt fold them as well as they are super stubborn. Seam seal and paint after.

 

I wonder if it’s wise to clean first as prep for later paint. Like remove wheels, on jackstands, agitate with brush and degreaser soak and rinse. Repeat if needed.

so that anything later scratched and hit with a wire wheel paint can stick instead of spraying on dirt then falling off.

 

Painting anything is 95% prep work and 5% actual painting. Always ensure you have a clean surface and have a favorable surface for adhesion. Also highly depends on what paint you choose to utilize and curing times based on your geographical location and weather conditions. You can opt for a 2 part epoxy like spraymax as it has extremely good chemical and uv protection.