Fitting 285 wrapped SCS Ray10s on Gen 3 TRD Pro

Hey y'all! I just ordered a set of Ray 10s (17x8.5) for my 2018 Pro that's currently stock. From the specs it looks like the final size and location of 285/70r17 Ray10s should be very close to 285/75r16 on Trd Pro Wheels. Has anyone put this set up on their rig (ideally Pros, but open to input from other trims) and can you share what you needed to do, if anything, to fit them?

Here are the specs of both wheels:
17x8.5 Ray 10s - 4.3in BS / +10mm Offset
16 x 7 TRD Pro - 4.51in BS / +13mm Offset

I know there are several threads debating if you can fit 285s on a stock Pro...that's not my question, as much as "Do I need to do more to my truck to accommodate the 285/70r17 Ray10s vs the 285/75r16 on Trd Pro?

And of course real world experience would be great too!

 

A body mount chop (BMC/CMC) and minor fender lining moulding with a heat gun if you off roading and you should be fine. Every truck a little different so it's hard to say exactly what you will need but definitely nothing major. Your wheels have a good backspace for 285s

 

https://www.tire-size-calculator.in...off=13&2tw=285&2ar=70&2dia=17&2ww=8.5&2off=10

You'll need to make sure you have a little more clearance inside the tires... If a 285 fits a Pro wheel stock, that is one thing...the extra Rays rim width will put more tire rubber closer to the UCAs

 

The Ray's with a backspacing of 4.3 actually move the tire away from the UCAs but it's a wider wheel. Either way he'll be fine for UCA clearance. I run JBA UCA's which require more clearance than stock UCA's. Had a 4.75 backspace and 285's and cleared the UCA's no prob.

 

You are definitely going to need a CMC at the very least.

 

I'm curious as to why tho? Maybe I should've clarified that I'm planning to lift the truck 2 inches, keeping the fox shocks. CMC is the very last thing I want to do, out of possible options.

Besides, I am running with the basic assumption that the TRD Pro wheels with 285s would fit and work for road travel. The Ray 10s seem very close, so not sure how it jumps to "CMC at the very least"?

 

The lift has nothing to do with it. The tire size and location of the body mount is the prob. A 15" lift will not change anything in that sense.

 

Put them on and you'll see why. Its not really a matter of lift. It will make sense once you mount everything and see where the interference is.

Also, it may be fine for road travel but there is really only one way to know, and that's to throw them on and see.

 

one thing that "could" help avoid a chop is some adjustable aftermarket UCA's. Get your caster up to 4* but you still may require the chop.

 

Ok thanks. Are you of the opinion that if I keep my pro wheels and wrap in 285/75 i would still need a CMC?

 

It really just depends, man. Its hard to say 100%. If you plan on going off-road I think it will be necessary, on road maybe not. With stock Pro wheels you will definitely have to trim and re-shape the liner still.

Either way it is going to be tight.

 

CORRECTION - RAY 10s are -10mm offset, not +10mm - sorry!!

Hey y'all! I just ordered a set of Ray 10s (17x8.5) for my 2018 Pro that's currently stock. From the specs it looks like the final size and location of 285/70r17 Ray10s should be very close to 285/75r16 on Trd Pro Wheels. Has anyone put this set up on their rig (ideally Pros, but open to input from other trims) and can you share what you needed to do, if anything, to fit them?

Here are the specs of both wheels:
17x8.5 Ray 10s - 4.3in BS / -10mm Offset
16 x 7 TRD Pro - 4.51in BS / +13mm Offset

I know there are several threads debating if you can fit 285s on a stock Pro...that's not my question, as much as "Do I need to do more to my truck to accommodate the 285/70r17 Ray10s vs the 285/75r16 on Trd Pro?

And of course real world experience would be great too!

 

If they are -10mm and not +10mm offset then you will 100% need a CMC. Its going to rub when you turn.

 

I have -10 SCS and 100% needed the CMC. That is with new UCA at 4* caster too. It rubbed like crazy. I know all trucks are different, but with that offset I don’t see how you wouldn’t need one.

It’s not a big deal tho. Just do it.

 

Dont do a cmc until you have exhausted all of the available ways to clear the mounts. I'm on r10s, 285, spc uca, 2.25 lift and I have no rubs.

 

As others have said lift is the small part of equation... you need to clear things inside the wheel well so you can turn etc. the more negative offset the more problems you’ll have with rubbing. If you want the wheel and tire combo you have to be willing to cut plastic and metal (CMC) if it becomes a problem.

285/75r16 tires, 16x8 0offset, 1.25” wheel spacers, and UCAs just so that I wouldnt rub on a 2” lift.

 

I put Nitto Trail Grapplers on my stock 19’ TRD Pro. There’s some pretty serious rubbing in reverse especially with passengers. From what I can tell it isn’t doing any damage. I haven’t done any “serious” off-roading with the tires but I have done some and haven’t had any issues. I’m curious as to what pieces I can move in the fender well since I am new to off roading and haven’t modified a vehicle like this before. Do you guys just remove pieces? What would cause the rear wheels to rub anything? To me it seems like it would require tremendous travel to cause problems.

Overall: I’ve had essentially 0 issues with road driving in 1,500 miles. Minus the absurd drop in MPG....

 

Probably rubbing the rear shock mounts.

 

I have 285/75/16, stock TRD OR wheels, 1.25" spacers, 6112's at 5/4 notches and only have minor rubbing on the front outside plastic corners. Going to need to trim and take a heat gun to it. Doesn't seem like I will need a CMC.

 

I have a Sport with same wheels and Falken 285/70/17 on it. It rubs at the front on the bottom corner of the fender lip. I have OME 887 coils with 5100’s for a lift. Previous to this I had a spacer lift and it rubbed at the back against the mud flap, not at all at the front, can’t figure that one out. I have removed a bit of meat on the bottom corner, and it is better but still rubs a bit. I’m going to push the fender liner towards the front a bit and re screw it. I think that will solve the problem.