Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

definitely beats my thanks giving

 

Dafuq

 

I’ll add some whipped cream and trail ready bead locks for ya

 

Dessert first! Now we're talking. MMM TR's, can I get a set to go home as leftovers?

 

This one is turning out real rad!

 

be thankful for that last lug nut...

 

on page 27 reading and counting but asking now out of impatience so forgive me if it's already been covered (maybe I will find out in the coming pages)
if anyone knows,

-can a cheap Harbor Freight MIG welder perform work like this, including LCA Pivots install? Maybe with some practice welding on spare parts, and reading the $20 Hayne's Welding Book they also sell at Harbor Freight. Welding seems like a good life skill to have that can only improve with time; might as well start now and become self-sufficient to buy a welder rather than borrow them.
The one I'm talking about is on sale now. $200. Green colored. But I'm not sure about it. Because someone recommended the heat setting be set down to 18 to weld on the Pivots. The Harbor Freight welder settings show 1-10. Nothing about 18.

-is JD Fab saying "have a pro welder install it" just the typical liability cover-their-own-ass thing every shop says but you don't really have to listen to and use your best judgement?
Maybe it's a way of saying "We are not responsible if you choose to be dumb and use only superglue to install this structural piece"
Because I don't see why it can't be DIY mig-welded
The part is $900. Labor is probably at least 3 hours worth of work to install it, if not more. Labor charge can be up to $160/hr depending on the shop.
Fuck dropping an extra $400+ just for some other guy to lift the truck up and fire up a MIG-welder if you can do that yourself

-Their disclaimer states any truck that has been wheeled may have some frame twist. Is this something to pay $300 at a body shop to measure?
Because what if you line up the LCA pivot with the locating holes, weld it on, only to throw the truck up on the alignment rack and find out it still can't reach the factory spec alignment numbers? Now you're kinda screwed because the Pivot is welded on. Unless you cut it back off again

-What's the best configuration? I see in the group buy (would be awesome if they ran another one or Black Friday sale!) a mixture of people ordering with steel skid, aluminum skid, or no skid.
I don't know if steel would add enough weight to reduce MPG, or if other mods can make up for that such as modified Cam Gear, different gearing, etc.
I'm leaning towards aluminum just because that's what OP went with (and the diff sump skid is still steel) and it's plenty thick
but the things I've heard of aluminum ripping on rocks makes me wonder if steel is better
They say aluminum is harder to weld and requires better welding tools.
But the point is to choose smart off-roading lines and cross obstacles without beaching yourself on the rock.
Worst case if you accidentally do, it still may be possible to cut out the square section of torn aluminum skid, and weld in new material.
All while having some of that light weight aspect for a daily street driven truck

-What is the best way to paint these things (bare metal) to prevent rust?
Painting outside is easy. It's getting into holes that is hard. Like if there are cavities. For example, painting inside of a frame (if accessible), versus the outside. It's difficult to just stick an aerosol spray can up inside and then turn it, praying that you hit every bare metal section with paint. Unless you confirm with borescope.
My guess is:
1. Find which areas must be welded
2. Paint everything else first before install
3. Perform install/welding, and then paint those surfaces
One way to paint is abrasive prep. Sandblast, scotchbrite, sandpaper, whatever works. Clean. Acid etch primer. Paint coat. Clear coat.
However with nooks and crannies, it might work to give a quick spray with Brakleen, spray dry with air hose, then paint. A brush might not reach, vs. aerosol can.
The way that seems like it would suck, is doing inside a shop while truck is up on a lift.
I went through this painting a steel bumper, but it was easier because it was on my balcony. I took a week. I'd walk there, spray into the nooks and crannies on the inner side of the bumper so it doesn't rust, and as soon as it became a smoke show, I walked away and closed the door. I even put a fan on aimed outwards to blow the smoke away.
That was after masking the balcony off with clear plastic and tape.
Kinda hard to do that in an automotive shop and not force the guy next to you to huff paint.

-For welding (if you decide to make more use of buying a Harbor Freight mig welder), how do you choose metal material and where do you buy it? Metal supply places/stores?
I'm guessing answers to that and all the finer points of welding/fabrication are gonna be found more in classes, books, videos, etc...
Would be awesome if that welder can be kept and used later on for more projects as skills develop, such as fabricating bumpers, bumper hoops, swingouts, welding on sliders, etc.
Still not a bad idea to buy pre-made high quality fabricated parts from people/business and support them
but having a welder can still even be used to remove stuck hardware (welding nut onto stripped bolt, etc.)

I'm looking to repair bent pockets that have ruined alignment, and the Pivot kit install seems like a good way to do that,
all while providing numerous upgrades at the same time
-no more need for cam tab reinforcements
-can clear bigger tires
-stronger alignment tabs
-higher ground clearance and skid
-stronger hardware
-no longer knocks out alignment each wheeling trip
etc.




I'm in the process of making my own sandblaster. That might help prep as well. Sand media sprayed gets into areas where scuffing with scotchbrite cannot. Because being my own parts/truck I'd actually give a shit about doing it right, unlike the last guy I paid to powder coat a metal piece; he claimed to do perfect work. I received the piece and looked it over. It seemed like his final quality check was done at 10pm with a blindfold and flashlight with dead battery. Sections were still bare metal.
Some say powder coat is just a base layer. And for many car wheels it is. I can always go back later, scuff it up, and spray more layers on top with primer, paint, and clear.

 

This is easy.
If it even crosses your mind that a 200 dollar welder may work...you shouldn’t be doing this.

If you think the LCA install is about 3 hours... you shouldn’t be doing this.

Those are just some highlights...several other comments/statements/observations you made lead me to believe you shouldn’t be taking on this project. But if you do. Please drive alone.

 

Thank you for the technical insight, fellow TW'er

 

I can install these probably faster than anyone can as I’ve quite a few and have a full shop. It’s a 16hr job start to finish with painting and proper assembly.

I wouldn’t go near a harbor freight welder and this is definitely not a project to learn how to weld on.

There is also no need to sandblast anything... weld it on and paint it in place, don’t over think that one.

And your stock arm mounts are totaled, this kit will fix all your issues however you need to understand this is an involved install that requires fabrication skills and the proper tools.

 

saw a post somewhere saying that a used Lincoln welder is better than a new Harbor Freight welder, using the analogy of buying a shiny new Taurus vs. a reliable proven used Glock for $100 less

I think the initial learning and practice would take place on old used trash spare parts (such as worn brake rotors), to practice welding things onto them
until eventually becoming good enough to weld on the truck

 

If you are going to invest in a tool and want to learn, practice and practice and practice to do the job right you might as well invest in a quality tool. If you want to save money just pay someone that has already invested in doing right and then put in more hrs. at your own job if you can.

 

Trail Ready Wheels? Diameter, Width, Backspacing/Offset and Real Bead Locks I assume? If I like your set up I might as well learn as much as I can.

 

17x8.5 with 4.5mm BS and ALWAYS real bead locks

 

https://secure.trbeadlocks.com/17x8-125-45hd17beadlockwheel-1.aspx

 

You went with the forged? HappyThanksgiving.

 

no, I wish...one day. my body can't cash that check. I think the other truck are the cast verison. Harry has the real mcoys.

 

I did this project maybe 2 months ago now? Took me about 26-28 hours start to finish, also installing the long travel kit, though I was dealing with a lot of rust and other issues (nothing to do with JD). If I did it again on a better condition truck I could probably do the whole thing in 20 hours. This is also with a full on shop.

I would not ever do this kind of work without a decent amount of welding experience. I'm not anywhere near as good as @81Trekker but I have the right tools and have been welding for years on different projects and fortunately have spent a lot of time around properly good fabricators. Like their work is literally in space with NASA good.

I would encourage anybody to learn to weld. However, you don't want to be practicing welding on parts of your truck that are as important as this, and see as much abuse as this. I personally wouldn't do any suspension welding onto the frame without a 220v welder.

My 2¢

 

I have a m135 welder and bought the kit during the group buy. It’s siting on the shelve unopened due to not having the right welder. Just my luck the m135 trigger just gave out tonight and I was looking into a plasma for Black Friday but can’t seem to find any deals. Looks like I will be saving up alittle more for the m255 since it will be more useful then a plasma at this point but no deal either.

I also thought about renting a 220 welder instead of buying since I am not a fabricator. Just have it tack in place and rent the welder and go to town for a couple of hours.

 

I heard this one is good (240v) but I'm not sure if it's the right kind