Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Sounds like you need a bumper to bumper cage

 

You ordered a +4 kit?

 

I fuckin' hope not.

But I guess I'll add checking that to the to-do list.

 

Just to be a topper. Helped a friend repair his left rear body mount completely separating from the cab just last weekend.

this is the bottom of the cab mount completely separated from the cab.


The top of the cab mount completely separated from the cab.

 

Honestly curious, what type of cab mount bushings were used in that truck? I'd guess POLY... and hoping that didn't happen with stock bushings in good condition

We all know the frames are flexy, and if the flex is absorbed in a soft bushing, then the movement won't be forced into the sheet metal, where it will flex/bend, work-harden, and eventually crack.

 

not surprising with all these failures since the Tacomas are designed for light off-roading and a lot of these breaks are from harder use and carrying more weight. The body mounts are more concerning, and I wonder how often we should be checking everything over to make sure we catch things before breaking outright.

I'm anticipating doing an internal cage and engine bay reinforcements to get ahead of these issues rather than go down the break/fix rabbit hole.

Most of the metal used in our trucks is way too thin for real off-roading and made not from virgin ore and instead recycled microwaves, rebar and who knows what.

Radiator core support failure and door opening cracks aren't a new thing...but high time to make them a thing of the past.

A box frame and/or a cab mount reinforcement kits would be awesome.

#NoMoreChinesium #JDFabToTheRescue

 

Your buddy's passenger side is fucked too. Mine and @MonkeyProof 's rear body mounts are failing the same way. Driver side wants to punch through the chassis and the passenger side starts cracking the adjacent sheet metal structure

I boogered some wire on the driver side cracks and ground them flat, hopefully it'll last a long time before it starts cracking again. Passenger side is a shit show, gonna wait till it gets worse to make a decision on it.

 

I did not need to see this

 

Seeing all of this recent frame flex talk, would boxing the frame help? Tying rear bumper into sliders?

 

He does have the poly energy mounts in there. But its only been in there for a year or so. Think the truck is a 2007.

 

My cab mount bushings are all original OEM, and still appear to be in good condition. It's a fatigue and flex issue of the frame pulling and pushing against the cab regardless of type of bushing material.

 

I know exactly what you are talking about, we ran Kanes Creek Moab and on both sides, bed kissed the cab. I laughed and kept wheeling. Trip was worth every dent.

 

I have the original Allpro HD sliders that have a full length frame "L" wrap from the front leg to the rear leg that adds a rigidity to the frame, and that's why why endorse the sliders not to mention the function of the kickout. I'm sure the "L" wrap makes a difference at subduing flex. But the flex is obviously there, just not as much. The revised AP HD sliders does not have a full length bottom of the frame wrap that my original version has. My guess for the revision is for fitment on the now 3rd Gen's.

 

I have the AP L wrap sliders with all of the bolts in them. Bed still hit the cab. Not much, but just enough to leave quarter size dents.

 

Mine are going to be custom and I'm deciding between plasma cutting out a plate for bolt on or just welding to the frame. My runners are going to be 1/4" wall square tube 4 on each side (DCLB).

EDIT: Also I was talking about frame boxing as in like the Dirt King Rear Frame plate kit that turns the C channel rear end into a fully boxed frame.

 

this is on Claw Hammer at The Hammers back in 2009, the start of the decline. Haven't slowed down since..


And here is a good reason why the JD Fab Rack and Pinion Slider is something to highly consider which I am. There's a ton of flex going on with the shaft, especially when locked in the front ..
This is from my first R&P..

 

No kidding. Does it seem to matter what the cab/bed configuration is, in terms of the body mounts tearing off of the sheet metal?

 

with enough metal flex, work hardening and cracking is inevitable. Best to try to isolate the flex to components that can handle it, and reinforce knowing full well that reinforcement can sometimes simply lead to failure in another spot.

I would bet a dollar that more damage happened in that year, than in the previous many years. but impossible to confirm.

I thought my bushings were in good condition too, only reason to try poly was for a minor amount of body lift. When I got new OEM bushings, I was amazed at: 1) how much taller then were, and 2) how much softer they were than the hard rubber of the originals.

 

At what point do we just admit we've bought the wrong truck?

Of course I'm not sure what the "right" one would be.

 

Every truck will break if you push it to it's limits and beyond.