Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

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Lol! Look at that mini bump! Curious to see how you’re going to beef up the LCA where it mounts to the truck. The weak part between the bushing barrels and the arms

 

This is such a dope design. What are you gonna do for the rear end?

 

Im going to cut out some plate and wrap the bushings.

In all reality I’ll probably end up building a stock replacement lower if I get bored enough

 

Deaver spring under, custom hangers/shackles, frame notch, hydro bumps and a 12” free bleed king on custom towers under the bed

 

Frame notch?

Are you gonna run a traction bar or do you think the springs under the axle will alleviate axle wrap enough on their own

 

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spring under will be enough for axle wrap... these trucks don’t have that much power to where it really matters. Also mounting the shocks on the front of the axle helps with the wrap

 

Are they flat on top so they go snug to the bottom of the bed so you can run a bolted shock tower brace in the bed?

 

like this-

 

Oh that’s right you said 12 not 14”. So what’s that frame notch you’re talking about

 

You notch part of the where the bump stops go so the axle can travel further upwards. If you want to make leaf springs work right you need a lot of arc in the springs and as much up travel as possible. I would never waste my time with a spring over pack... the springs are almost flat at ride height and you miss out on a bunch of up travel

 

Yeah you already gain a couple inches just from slinging the leaves under. Really curious how it will turn out with the notch. Wouldn’t a 14” shock work better if pulling that much travel?

And, glass? Or how will you keep the 35s from eating the fenders at full bump?

 

Can you elaborate "free bleed?"

 

I think he means bypass shocks?

 

The body of a 14” is too long to fit under the bed and get all the up travel. I understand I will loose some drop out but what makes leaf springs work correctly is up travel.

I also want the truck to sit low... no lift over stock and the rear will actually be lower than stock. People get so caught up in lift but don’t realize when you lift the truck you loose track width in the front and drastically limit the amount of droop. With a truck you want a lot of droop in the front and up travel in the rear. All the current Tacoma stuff available does the opposite hence why I’ve decided to build all my own stuff.

No plans for glass, just going to trim the fenders like everyone else does

 

They are not bypass shocks. It’s a modification JD Fabrications does to a smooth body by adding a singe tube to the exterior. Without giving away their secret what the tube does is allows a full range of compression adjustment- from so stiff the shock won’t move to almost no valving at all. It basically gives the shock a huge range of adjustment with out the noise of a bypass check valve.

Bypass shocks are ridiculously noisy and I don’t want to hear any of that!

 

Will you relocate the battery off the fender? Since it seems like the truck will be a bit of a Baja beast