Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

AG towers won’t yield the same travel numbers. They place the shocks too vertical.

 

Well in my situation the sua kit I have locates into the oem hanger locations. The long travel kits, put the leaf packs farther outboard of the frame with a longer leaf pack.

While the archive towers will function, they aren’t very well suited for the application. Could it work? Yes, but I’ve never tried it, might have issues with the shock not cycling correctly for a long travel pack. At bump you’ll still have an awfully low lower mount. Why go the trouble of setting up a long travel sua if you’ll handicap it by bad shock placement?

 

Pretty much what the others said about shock placement and travel. There’s also structural differences. Most built prerunner Tacomas are running bedcages which tie-in the top shock mounts with both sides of the frame. Now, we’ve already discussed the weaknesses of our frames, so for an actual “long travel” built rear, I’d say it’s gotta have some sort of cage whether through and above the bed or just riding on top of the bed, still a cage. Im partial to the low profile cages that @81Trekker and @glorifiedwelder have built.

 

My slide rack, Howe pump and rear long travel kit arrived yesterday. Stoked to get that all installed. Snapped a CV this evening though. The inner 934 is fine, but the axle or the outer went. Not sure which yet.

Broke just above this spot

 

I thought that was supposed to be almost impossible?

 

I’ll be curious to see how you get the outer joint off while keeping the shaft in tact, assuming it’s the outer joint. That’s been something I’ve wondered about if I were to ever snap an axle.

 

That’s disappointing. Front locked? What’d you plug the diff up with to get back? I kept two spare reg travel cvs in the truck but two spare 934s ain’t in the budget. Might cut the stubs off of some trashed ones unless there’s a better way

 

That’s what I do. I have two disassembled cv’s as a get home kit, meaning two inners and two outers. That way if I manage to grenade the front diff, I can still drive home.

If anyone else wants to do this, this is the cheapest CV I could find after a quick search. Doesn't really matter on the quality since it's just to get you home and you're cutting them up anyways. $140 for peace of mind is worth it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324295793126?fits=Model:Tacoma&epid=75377351

 

My plan is to carry a disassembled spare outer, assuming that it'll be the outer which fails, not the shaft. On the trail I'll just cut the outer CV appart to get it off the axle shaft and put the new outer on.

And yes, I carry a battery powered angle grinder with cutoff wheels on the trail.

 

It's a handy tool to have. I had to shave down a rear bumper bolt to replace a caliper bolt on a friends truck mid Pott's.

 

I didn't know those were the same thread pitch, but that's good to know.

 

Toyota likes to use the same thread pitch on the same diameter bolts. So most, if not all M10 are the same pitch, M12 are the same, etc. Makes it easy to swap things around.

 

Oddly enough, Ive gone through 2 CV's now and 2/2 have been outers. Somewhat making me think about staying with stock to see how it goes. It is a decent chunk of cash that can be allocated elsewhere. Likely though, I probably dont drive hard enough to have more frequent failures.

 

One thing to note is that the 934 allows more droop so if you don't get them, you'll need to strap it shorter, robbing yourself of travel. How much, I'm not sure.

 

I guess in that case, knowing the loss is key.

 

One crude way to know is I could figure out the difference in travel when the axle shaft is at 21 degrees vs 28 degrees, which is the difference in droop between the two axles. It would be easy enough with a digital angle finder on the axle shaft. If I remember, I'll check when I break the front down again and cycle everything. Maybe today if I stop being lazy.

 

Does the kit use every bit of that 28* or is it limited at the joint?

 

Ugh, fine. I'll get off of youtube and go check on it. Gimme an hour.

 

Probably not. I know when I switched to RCV axles the limiting factor went from the cv to the uniballs

 

It's at 23 degrees at droop. That's with the front end in the air and leveled. Measuring by my hardly accurate test, you would lose about 1" of droop if you had to limit it to 21 degrees.