Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Question about the kit on the website. Can you run this kit and still fit standard steel skids? That aluminum skid won't do me much good. I really like this concept though. Makes fitting 35s a little easier in my opinion. So if there's an option to buy that won't make me ditch my current skids, I'd be down to give the kit a shot in the future.

 

The skid plate is designed specifically for the lower arm kit to maximize ground clearance. I’m sure you could make your steel skid work with some modifications. If I were you I would sell the skid you have and have JD make you a steel version instead of aluminum. It will be the same price and I know they could do it no problem. I wanted aluminum for my application to keep it lighter

 

Gotcha. I built the skids I'm currently using so modifying or even starting over is completely and option. If I could get the kit with no skid, that'd probably work out best for me and I'd fab one up that works for my application. Looks like with the skid the kit uses, even a steel one, it would only be 100% effective with the bumper you also have since the front portion of the skid would tie in to the bumper. Correct me if I'm wrong on that, just trying to get my facts straight. Just wouldn't quite work with the front bumper I'm using and I need all the coverage I can get.

 

What you would do is buy the lower section which comes with front cross bar and then you would fab/weld your own tubes down to it coming off your existing bumper

 

I am with you, I would love to relocate arms forward 1" with just a simple LCA tab kit. I already have steel skids I want to keep. I'm happy with OEM adjusters personally, but would like to have the cam tabs be reinforced or just assume that the TC cam tab gussets would need to be installed. I would be all over it if a simple kit with a jig or fool proof way to align prior to welding existed.

Maybe the kit on the website could be modified and sold for folks that just want to have the tabs relocated but not the skid and the sub frame tube assembly? That would also require the 1" aluminum spacer and the new adjuster solution though I suppose. Could foresee the alignment of the tabs prior to welding be an issue though, which is what the sub frame assembly accomplishes I think.

What about a hybrid kit - where you only cut-off and fab the forward portion of each LCA mounting tab, leaving the rear one in place? Then alignment of the new tabs is easy with a solid aluminum bushing to bolt to the existing rear tab for welding, and you would use the aluminum 1" spacer (or incremental discs for that matter) to make up the difference of the wider spacing, and obviously the new adjuster hardware and methods would be utilized.

In my situation, I would be compensating for the new added amount of caster by changing my SPC upper control arms. But getting the wheel forward 1/2" to 1" more than it is now (I have the cam adjusters in max forward position) would be killer for fitting 35's. And, when using non OEM bushings (like Whiteline or regular Poly that come with aftermarket arms), the adjusters would be more in the middle of the range and the bushings wouldn't be in such tension.

Seems doable, but question is if there is something missing from my assumptions and if the OP and shop would be willing to do something like this due to enough interest. Anyone else have thoughts?

 

This is more what I'd be happy with. I wouldn't even mind having the tube sub frame for aligning the LCA tabs; just make it easily removable. Maybe a bolt together jig of sorts. My goal is fitting 35s easier not necessarily maximizing ground clearance although I do see its importance.

 

The whole point of the tube assembly it to give the tabs perfect alignment and to make the install painless. If you just had the cut out tabs getting the correct positions will be tricky.

cutting the tabs in half makes no sense because the stock tabs are one piece.

 

You could just buy the kit without the skid plate and save a few bucks

 

I want the kit... Need to save for that and the modified tundra rack

 

Nice product @81Trekker. Looks pretty easy to install and you did hard work already. Price isn’t bad either.


@Arcticelf did you see this I’m sure you’re going to fab your on, but some good ideas.

 

Thank you and yes the kit is really easy to install, the locating tabs on the lower crossmember take all the guess work out of it. Just cut the stock mounts off, bolt the new stuff on and weld it up!

 

I was out at JD yesterday and talking to them about the kit pricing... they are willing to offer a group buy discount. If they can get a dozen orders at the same time it brings down the laser cutting costs and they would pass the savings along. Thoughts?

 

So very interested in this set up! Is there any reason that this kit wouldn't work with my Icon coils and upper control arms? I don't see any problem with my Apex bumper except for the skid plate of course. I love the integrated skip plate in your set up, but is there an option for the piece that goes from the bumper down to the cross member; like in your build? Just tying to check some boxes before I pull the trigger!

 

It will definitely work with your icon stuff. I don’t understand the question about the bumper... the way the kit is designed is you can purchase the lower section and then connect your existing bumper to it or you can buy the bumper that I have and it all ties together

 

Keep us posted. I was going to try and push off any further truck purchases until early next year but this maybe something I have to take advantage of.

I’d want to have a steel skid though if that’s an option. I play in too many rocks.

 

I will let you guys know and they said a steel skid is no problem

 

Yes, I've been following along. There are not words for my hatred of stock control arms, bushings and ball joints though, so I'm going to solve the problem with a fabbed LCA, and a setup to use a "normal", not OEM replacement, coilover.

Getting away from the OEM replacement style shock will save 600$ on that alone, making up for the added cost of the LCA. Or at least that's the theory.

 

Aren’t you LT?

 

He’s got stock length arms but drives it like a trophy truck

 

Why does the stock rack scare you? I have zero experience with steering racks.