Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Correct the rack deflects a lot without the slide rack. I’ve never contacted or seen anyone else contact the banjo bolt so this is the first I’ve heard. I also don’t run steering stops unless using a ram assist and then I have Howe set the box up with them internally. If you care about stops and don’t want to scratch your arms you can leave the OEM stops on and rivet thin rubber pads to the to prevent scratching.

 

I’d rather drop a shackle onto a rock over a spring hanger any day. The shackle will just move rearward while the hanger will eventually bend your frame (even more than it already is )

 

You could do this...either buy them or make them yourself. If you have the slide rack you could make some to put on there.

 

Started the install of the Howe steering kit. Had to modify things since I dont have a core support that this is made to bolt up to. Cooler moved over to the left side since the aux tranny cooler in in the way on the right side. Could have made it work if I felt like making spacers....i didnt feel like it. Bent the lower part of the cooler bracket and just picked up an existing screw and the top just drilled and tapped the tube.
The resi I bolted up to a bracket I made to mount the upper part of the radiator. Only had enough space for 1 bolt. So gonna weld it in place when i can get over to my welder buddies place. But its fine for the street for now. Will finish it all up tomorrow morning.

 

@Airdog I would refrain from running lines too long. Howe recommends the most direct path if possible to minimize distortion/impeding flow efficiency.
I was able to make a mount off the cross member in the flow path and allows you to keep your front real estate without mods. Just an idea.

 

Looks like they no longer offer that product anymore, at least I couldn’t find it. That’s a nice solution.

 

Easy enough to buy a chunk of delrin and have a local machine shop turn it.

 

Sure, anything can be done with enough money and effort. I just don’t care that much now that I’ve solved the problem.

 

What wheel backspacing/offset are you guys running with the 2+ kit?

 

IIRC the highest backspacing you can get away with is 4.5”, and that’s to clear the wheel on the spindle. @WormSquirts tried 4.75 and made contact while off-road. I could be misremembering but he can chime in.

Im running 3.5” backspacing on mine.

 

Yep, looks like I remembered correctly.

 

I'm on 4.5" 16x8 with 315s. The tightest clearance is honestly around the brake calipers and spindle -- I don't seem to have any issues with the kit and that backspacing. I still need to swap my shock rod ends [closing on a house on Monday took priority] so I don't touch the steering rod so I can't test full lock yet, but I can update you by next week when my life slows down a bit.

 

I am still running 4.75" bs. I think my issue was actually related to steering deflection as well. I don't have the slide rack on yet and those rack bushings move back and forth probably an inch or so.

I never cut off the steering stops. I didn't even know that was a thing until you guys posted about it! No instructions when I installed the kit. I'm running the stops on the front of the control arm like stock and haven't had any issues there other than they obviously chip up the PC, which isnt a problem considering what rocks do to them.

I had been running the limit straps on the outside even though I don't have bypasses, which was dumb, but that's where the wheel made contact. I moved the limit strap over to be right on the tab like it should be and no contact issues since.

 

It’s not uncommon for some reason from what I’ve seen with LT kits. I know the TC kit has you cut them off as well. Not too sure why though.

 

Probably exactly like you say, so they don't get stuck under the arm. Hasn't been an issue for me yet though

 

Frame is fully boxed

 

Good to know! I have almost 0 weight in the rear besides a spare, leaning deavers..

 

Not sure what you mean by all around better? For specifically rock crawling which is this trucks main purpose it is geared towards down travel not uptravel, and the less shit hanging down to get snagged the better.

 

Well, as I’ve already said. My current SOA setup pulls 14”. I’m assuming I won’t lose much if any down travel going to the SUA but I will gain up-travel. Last I checked, good bump travel is crucial to keeping center of gravity low while crawling. Yeah? I fail to see how SUA isn’t an all around improvement.