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Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Builds (2005-2015)' started by 81Trekker, Aug 25, 2019.

  1. Sep 6, 2021 at 12:03 PM
    #8741
    Slashaar

    Slashaar Trail Limo Supreme & Certified Hole Massager

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    What all needs to go and what can stay?
    I assume the new spring perches are 180* from factory?
    20210906_140146.jpg
     
  2. Sep 6, 2021 at 12:08 PM
    #8742
    BEAR_KNIFE_FIGHT

    BEAR_KNIFE_FIGHT bearly famous

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    So, this might be a dumb question, but when I went to take the skidplate off my LCA pivots, I'm noticing that the LCA bars and the center jack point on the crossmember are not "flat". Is that normal? the skidplate is now getting kind of "bent" around the center jack point. All of the mounting hardware appears to have gone on correctly/everything else looks fine, so I'm not really sure what to make of that.
     
  3. Sep 6, 2021 at 12:27 PM
    #8743
    singletrack_ftw

    singletrack_ftw “I chopped the wrong leaf!”

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    Did you guys ever figure out the clunk? I wanted to remind you that a dry driveshaft slip yolk causes a very annoying clunk that feels like a basketball rolling forward and back in the bed of the truck. A little Ford XG8 blue paste grease will remedy that. Just figured I’d add because I was the happiest person when I figured out that issue
     
  4. Sep 6, 2021 at 12:42 PM
    #8744
    Airdog

    Airdog did your Mom

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    You going SUA?? Hopefully you measured your pinion angle at ride height before you took it all apart. That way you can just set the same pinion angle at ride height with the SUA setup then weld the perches on. Not sure just putting them at 180 from stock will get you what you need.
     
    Slashaar likes this.
  5. Sep 6, 2021 at 1:04 PM
    #8745
    Slashaar

    Slashaar Trail Limo Supreme & Certified Hole Massager

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    :anonymous:
     
    Dayman Karate likes this.
  6. Sep 6, 2021 at 1:18 PM
    #8746
    snowsk8air2

    snowsk8air2 how hard can it be?

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    Nope. Shoot for the pinion to be 2° “Down” from the driveshaft at ride height.
     
    RestoNewbie likes this.
  7. Sep 6, 2021 at 1:34 PM
    #8747
    81Trekker

    81Trekker [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Too many to remember
    You have to trim about an inch off the factory jack point for the skid to sit flush. The LCA kit was designed to give you every possible inch of ground clearance.
     
    01 dhrracer likes this.
  8. Sep 6, 2021 at 1:34 PM
    #8748
    81Trekker

    81Trekker [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Too many to remember
    This
     
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  9. Sep 6, 2021 at 1:38 PM
    #8749
    BEAR_KNIFE_FIGHT

    BEAR_KNIFE_FIGHT bearly famous

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    Awesome, thanks. I'll do that then. Much appreciated!
     
  10. Sep 6, 2021 at 1:55 PM
    #8750
    Slashaar

    Slashaar Trail Limo Supreme & Certified Hole Massager

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    Thanks.
     
  11. Sep 6, 2021 at 2:05 PM
    #8751
    Sixthelement

    Sixthelement Ran over a Yeti once, Texas, never again

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    Bunch o stuff.
    Thats something to remember for when we cut my truck apart.
    Should we weld in a small flat piece to fill the hole once cut?
     
  12. Sep 6, 2021 at 2:07 PM
    #8752
    81Trekker

    81Trekker [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Too many to remember
    No point, if you put a straight edge across the lower pivot tubes you can see right where you need to cut the jack point. This way the skid will sit hard up against the jack point and act as a plate
     
    01 dhrracer and Sixthelement like this.
  13. Sep 6, 2021 at 2:08 PM
    #8753
    Sixthelement

    Sixthelement Ran over a Yeti once, Texas, never again

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    Bunch o stuff.
    Check.
     
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  14. Sep 6, 2021 at 2:54 PM
    #8754
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 Well-Known Member

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    What is everyone doing to paint the pivots?

    [​IMG]

    Last time I used regular spray paint on a truck part it didn't work out well. Ambient temp was too hot during cure time, creating micro-crack spider webs.
    That and the overspray + fumes you have to worry about if you don't have a backyard to do it in.

    Plus with the way this thing appears to go on, I don't know if a spray can would get into the inside nooks and crannies for coverage to prevent rust.

    This all makes Steel-It sound like the best idea. I have heard of people using it. (weldable coating)
    If that is the case, how many cans are needed? Costs more than regular paint, at $30/can

    [​IMG]
    Not sure if prep-work is recommended (steel wool, scotchbrite, chemicals, sanding, etc.) or if it's OK to just spray Steel-It straight on the part right out the box
     
  15. Sep 6, 2021 at 3:30 PM
    #8755
    DocME

    DocME Well-Known Member

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    That’s what I used. In black. I think that’s what most people use for it. Easy to touch up too when you scrape it.

    I DA sand or wire wheel almost everything. Use an alcohol wipe and then go straight to paint.
     
  16. Sep 6, 2021 at 3:32 PM
    #8756
    dcoursler

    dcoursler Well-Known Member

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    Steel it is the better choice here. It’s how we did mine and if you prep the parts before install and then again after install you’ll be just fine. The steel it really gets in there well if you do thin coats
     
  17. Sep 6, 2021 at 3:34 PM
    #8757
    Evenflow

    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    Yes
    if you read the instructions from steelit it says to bead blast the surface first to create proper adhesion. you could also try using a true self etching primer instead which is never a bad idea
     
  18. Sep 6, 2021 at 3:46 PM
    #8758
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 Well-Known Member

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    I might blast it then in that case

    I've used self etch primer before but I don't know how weldable that is; it probably isn't
    unless masking off the edges that will be welded so that everything else (main body) is primed but not the edges
    in which case steel-it sounds better
    because even then, with primer, it'd still potentially need paint and clear, which might be impossible to spray into nooks and crannies once the thing is welded on the truck
     
  19. Sep 6, 2021 at 3:49 PM
    #8759
    kasnerd

    kasnerd candied bacon

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    @TacoTuesday1 POR15 is the way for long term durability. SteelIt is a good option too. Regardless...

    [​IMG]

    It's all about the prep. Curly knew it.
     
  20. Sep 6, 2021 at 3:53 PM
    #8760
    kasnerd

    kasnerd candied bacon

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    Do not weld through a finish. Take it down to bare metal first.
     

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