Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

It can be reduced with relocating the lower pockets. I 100% agree to really address it the upper arm pivots must be changed. I will most likely be adding some real shocks with a modified valve stack to offer the front more support during braking. The hydro bumps might help a little too. Lol

 

Yea you could angle the lower mounts a bit but that's still gunna shove the tire towards the firewall as it bumps out which is counterproductive to fitting bigger tires obviously...and eliminating the antidive doesnt make your truck look for pennies when you hit the brakes...correct some decent valving and you never notice it....I deleted all that shit and my truck murders whoops all day long.

Using hydro bumps as a bandaid is a terrible idea...it will ride like shit

 

The hydro bump part was a joke... it would be the biggest band aid ever!

 

Y’all are some clever fuckers

 

The idea with this project was to come up with something that solves a number of issues with the front end while being very affordable and easy to install with basic tools.

I am very fortunate to have the means and resources to build whatever I want but that’s not the idea here. I want to come up with something that is obtainable to everyone or would make an excellent addition to guys that already have suspension mods

 

Does that mean you’re going to offer your solution for sale?

 

Nice thread so far. When my 33s go bald I’m going to 35s. And here’s a good cab mount relocation kit.

https://www.alpinedesignsoffroad.com/product/2005-2015-toyota-tacoma-front-cab-mount-relocation-kit

 

I’ve seen those and could easily make something pretty trick myself. I’m trying to avoid beating the firewall in with a hammer. I would make wheel tubs before taking a hammer to make things fit

 

What made you decide to adjust the LCA mounts instead of the upper? I agree it will work, just curious what led you there.

 

There are a number of factors-

stock lower pockets needed reinforcement, pushing the lower forward gains tire clearance and the idea is this setup can easily be installed by anyone with basic tools

 

Ok so if you just move the mounts forward and on the same factory plane as they were... the issue of castor change is there. While castor is good in offroad applications for the most part...the antidive that's in the upper mounts increases castor as the tire bumps....and that change is ALOT. Especially on any long travel setup...some go from slightly negative at drop to almost 14* at bump!...sliding the lower forward an inch will make that value higher..to a point where u can run into binding of the uniball especially if your trying to turn...which you might be able to get away with with making a different upper that places the cup better, but now your getting to where you have to replace arms just to move the lower mounts a little...when u can just build arms that do that...

Now if you move the lower mounts forward and compensate for some of the antidive in the upper which would put an angle to everything...now with the front lower mount being higher your going to likely have some serious bumpsteer problems because the relative distances between pivots have changed and the terminal point on the steering knuckle is now higher ...soo how would you fix that? Build a spindle?....

Sorry man dont take this like I'm attacking you I'm not at all...just trying to point out the issues your gunna run into

 

Everything you have said is spot on. The upper arm geometry is compensating for the lower relocation. The steering arm will also be modified to eliminate bumpsteer.

 

Ok...now are you doing it for stock length stuff I assume?

 

Yes it’s all stock length, trying to keep it sleeper

 

Youd benefit more from changing upper mounts...or just making new arms with better geometry...
Your hacking the truck up anyway...why not go about it the best way you can instead of just tryin to be different?

 

The idea is everything I’m doing will easily be removable so the truck could be put back to stock. Ideally this will be a cost effective solution for all the taco owners. I completely agree with you about making new uppers and lowers and completely changing the way the uppers mount but I’m trying to do something different here because the challenge is fun for me.

I bought this truck as a daily because I’m sick of driving a 4 door diesel around town and trying to find parking at all my surf spots is an fn nightmare. With this taco I’m going for a sleeper 7S style front end. I’ve had a few long travel 2wd builds in the past and fully understand the benefits of building an entire kit from scratch.

I’ll start posting pics of the new pockets next week to give you guys a better idea of exactly what’s going on.

I also want to say I really appreciate your input and it’s awesome to talk to someone that really understands suspension geo! This is what these forums are all about... ideas, discussions and implementation. TW FTW!!!

 

Sub’d

 

All i did was pinch weld, trim front fenders/flares 2", and 3" lift, for the front. Nothing fancy in the rear

I also have a front bumper and UCAs.. but that comes with the build.

 

Truck looks really good but my question is how much drop out do you have at ride height? I’m trying to have the truck sit lower to keep the CV’s happy and have a decent amount of drop out

 

Doesnt 7S stipulate that you need to keep factory mount locations? Or is that a different class?

Building a kit would be the easiest way to convert back to stock....not moving mounts around no?