Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Kinda looks like Solid copied DMZ now....


or maybe not...I have no idea who came first..

 

Earliest I see anything from dmz is like 4-5 yrs ago solid 6ish. But DMZ had the trans mount out for longer solid seemingly covers more models and engines. Kinda hard to tell anything with DMZ since they only post about them on IG once every few yrs and nothing anywhere else about them. Just call for pricing and availability. Doesn't seem like it's a product they really want to market or have available for people.

 

I have no plans to do so. Right now I’m more focused on doing some really neat things to fix the frame flex which in my opinion is the biggest issue with these trucks.

For what it’s worth I’d buy the DMZ solid motor and tranny mounts as Tim @ DMZ is a good guy who makes nice stuff.

 

Well I don’t need to drive around any more to know that boxing the frame was a huge improvement. Insanely better. The ride is so much more smooth and predictable. Much more of a joy to drive now. Can’t wait to play with it in the dirt.

 

I was able to talk with Tim yesterday. Damn good guy, I will be going that route as soon as I can. He also talked about guys running only motor mounts with the factory trans mount. Apparently it’s a perfect recipe for a broken block, especially with the manual trans trucks.

 

What was the price of all 3?

 

850

 

Broken block or broken trans. One of the two. Where one goes, they must both go.

 

Correct. I remember bringing this up quite a while ago on here and people jumped my shit and said I was wrong. According to Tim, he's seen it more than once. Actually sounded like he wouldn't sell just motor mounts because of it. But yeah, with just motor mounts the trans is essentially floating on nothing behind the motor. Bell housing or block turns into the weak link. Not a gamble I'm willing to take.

 

Uh-oh.

 

Lol at people only running solid motor mounts... you have to do it all at the same time or the bellhousing is stressed big time

 

I wonder how many of us turd-genners are doing that very thing. Solid doesn't make a tyranny mount for us yet.

 

I coulda swore Tim said he had 3rd gen mounts too. I mean no offense to solid, I just got the vibe he really didn't get it 100% when he said tranny mounts weren't needed with motor mounts. Might be worth a call to DMZ because it sure would suck to break a block or bellhousing.

 

Yeah, I didn't @ - Solid cause I dont want to start a scuffle, but he's said multiple times that 3rd gen tyranny mounts aren't a high priority, cause you don't "have to" run them with motor mounts. (Although he makes both motor and tyranny mounts for multiple platforms) I'll definitely check with Tim, I've already dealt with him for my frame boxing, he seems super cool.

 

I don't care to start a scuffle either, I just don't like bad advice being fed to the masses. Back when I was big into the car world, I saw a few guys do engine and trans mounts but ignore the lower anti roll mounts. They ended up breaking blocks or a trans case on a hard hook. I've always seen it as a requirement to do ALL of it because loads will shift and you will find the weakest link messing around enough. And unfortunately in our case that next weak link is the block or the bell housing or both if one goes with a big enough bang. An extra 400$ could have saved you 5k$+

 

could you guys take a sec to educate me on how the bellhousing or trans or block is so additionally stressed with the aftermarket poly engine mounts? Maybe that is a dumb question, but hoping you can take a sec to bring me up to speed...

My understanding which could be wrong, is that there are 2 engine mounts up front, one on each side, which prevent torque twist and locate side to side as well as front to back. Then there is a mount on the back of the trans, which essentially stops the pivoting around the front mounts, which would be front to back 'rock' and also the side to side 'wag' if you will.

Given that the engine mounting locations are not changed with the engine mounts, and they aren't actually solid, how does it change anything with the stress on the bell housing, that putting a poly transmission mount on (which still isn't solid) will fix?

I just conceptually must be missing something, about how the block or bellhousing or trans is stressed more than when you mount it in the identical position with softer factory mounts? I can understand how things would feel tighter, better power transmission to the wheels, etc... but the actual amount of power lost into the soft motor mounts isn't so much that it being accounted for instead of lost would suddenly break things. Especially not in the middle where engine meets trans? I could understand if a stiffer mount caused issues with the frame, or the block and or trans at the location of the mounts... but just not seeing how it multiplies stress at the bellhousing, and how a new rear trans mount would solve it?

Thanks in advance for some education on this...

 

It all boils down to bushing durometer AKA stiffness of the bushing. Essentially engine mounts and tranny mounts need to have matching durometer or one is going to give significantly more. In this case that's the trans mount. When applying torque to the driveline it will try to push upward on the tail shaft of the trans. Since you have a harder bushing up front the load is transferred forward instead of remaining rearward where it should be.

This is going to be a far worse situation in a manual as well, simply because there is no cushion like a torque converter gives to an auto. With a manual you are applying torque on acceleration and on deceleration. Add 4 low into that mix and you're putting an absolute shit load of torque on the mounting point of the trans bellhousing and engine mounts.

 

In almost every situation where something is partially solid mounted and one end or side has movement you create a stress point. Since the transmission mount is a ways away from the engine mounts you create a bermuda triangle of stress so to say. The engine is fixed and yet the traansmission has forces being applied to it that the engine can't help absorb. That stress is going to be pushed to the trans/engine mount bolts and bell housing. Eventually something is going to give if hit with enough force.

 

But the front mounts aren't solid. The bushing surely can flex enough to accommodate the amount of pivoting allowed due to the movement the stock or poly mount at the rear allows for. If it doesn't, the bushing material itself would start giving way, breaking down, getting spit out of the mount.

Even if the stock tailshaft mount could flex like 1" laterally or vertically (which I think is a lot more than it does but I've never seen any video or anything so who knows), that would translate to a very small angular movement at the engine mount, and less than what the poly bushing there can absorb. Or am I off base, and we just need to accept that less flex is just more abusive, and the weak point to show up is in the middle of the two mounts? Sometimes it is hard for me to accept that it just "is" with less physics and reason behind it.

 

I think you're not understanding how little flex poly bushings allow. Its damn close to non existent in comparison to factory rubber. All mounts need to match, just like they do from the factory. Its done for a reason. That reason is to eliminate stress points.