Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

no mine is rock solid, Harry designed it so that the tire contacts 3 points of the gate frame when the lugs are tight and they used square tubing with gussets. take a look at my build thread there art pics in there

 

How does it clamp when closed?

 

it’s a 60/40 split so both pieces meet in the middle, the smaller side pins into the top of the bumper, the larger gate with the spare lands on a stainless pad metal on metal and clamps to the face of the bumper with a typical bumper gate latch

 

How solid is the CBI internal bracing? I have a brute force HC. Maybe I need to beef it up in some sections. I definitely see it move when I shake the tire. Just can’t wrap my head around what I could add and where to stop that motion…

 

The body of your bumper twists ?

Do your HC sides connect to frame as well ?

Does your spindle go all the way through to the bottom of the bumper ?

I had a non hc Bumper that twisted really bad like what you are describing and the swing gate was made out of round tubing too so the whole thing was a noodle.

You should start by looking at the root causes ie:

1. Is the bumper twisting where the spindle is- if so internally gusset it from the spindle working back to the points where it reaches out to the frame

2. Where is it loose ? At the spindle or is your gate tubing flexing ?

3. Lower the tire on the gate & have the tire bottom out on the gate full pressure fit

 

It looks like the CBI mounts the wings to the frame separately. I think I would see a big benefit adding something similar further up like the red line. The brute force wing support goes back to the same place you bolt it to in the rear. The overall mounting point/plate is relatively small.

I have a 4xinnovations double shear. It and the gate are solid. They don’t move a bit I’m convinced of it. If they do they take the bumper with it. I think maybe the bumper is twisting about an axis of rotation that travels through the mounting points- blue line

 

post some pics of your swing gate and where the tire mounts to it w/o the tire on it

 

my first build put the tire right on the gate when the lugs were torqued. New wheels with different spacing so it sits out a little bit, but no difference. That part is solid. I’m leaning towards the bumper itself flexing

 

The tire needs to snug down onto the square tubing when tightened

 

I had it snug on the first iteration, but it still shook. I have a new mounting plate and plan to correct it, but I don’t think it will help much. The further back and angled it can go the best. If I shake it I can hear my bumper scrub the rubber trim on the bedside. Also those tubes on the wings vibrate.

 

Only 40 more to go... that brings my total to 80 kits in 6 weeks. I’m really starting to get the hang of this welding thing

 

Makes feel like if I don't go LT I am not one of the cool ones.

 

Now that you have boxed your frame I have the feeling that you are experiencing axle roll. Big tires really amplify bad road manners in my experience. I remember the day I went from 285's to 35's there was an instant noticeable difference in a bad way ie: things like concrete highways with the expansion joints every 10 ft were no longer my friend.

Best way to find out is by using a gopro is various positions, point it at the top of the gap between your bed a cab to see if you actually have any frame flex still going on then mount it under the ass end looking at the axle to see if you are getting the jerky front to back axle roll motion happening. When I had leaves I could feel a front to back motion from the leaf flex / axle roll vs the up / down motion from frame flex

 

I can definitely relate to that feeling. It could very well be adding to it, but after boxing the frame the swing out problem got better in the sense that it wouldn’t reverberate as much or carry through the frame. I’m going to start with making some tube sections off the front of the wings and bolt them to the frame like your CBI. The contact patch for that bumper is so small and has to do so much. Not to mention, the very tail end of my frame could use a gusset or crossmember tying it together as long as it clears a trailer hitch.

 

You should cut out that weak factory cross member and do this, it got rid of all of the lateral twist I had when the gate was open :

 

Man if Marlin had someone with your talent's they might be able to, naw they would still screw it up somehow.

 

I thought about it, but didn’t feel I could recreate one that would be any better. I liked that it extended upwards to triangulate in another plane as well. The factory ones were welded in place and to those tubes as well. The Archive HC bolts to it and the hangers making the whole thing even more solid. I could probably use some more ahead and behind it though.

 

The flaw in that theory amigo is that you are assuming that OE crossmember is strong but you can literally twist that factory crossmember with your bare hands...it's super weak and not giving you any lateral / twist support - get rid of it

 

You’re probably right, but I’m going to need to beat around the bush quite a bit more before I get fed up and pull the bed off again

 

The factory rear x-member should we just call it a spare tire mount and nothing more?