Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Yes. All of the things for the 4Runners, GX, FJ Cruiser. All in stock

 

@81Trekker are there any gains in down travel (getting approx 4” up and 9” down with HH and a 12” relocate) with the SUA kit or is it all in up travel?

Any benefit to running 16” smoothies? I am ditching the bed and can mount/notch wherever need be. Final question, will the axle shock mounts from Archive clear this kit? Don’t see why they wouldn’t, but curious.

 

Why not just link the thing? Honestly, if I were in your shoes that's what I would be doing. FWIW, I fully expect to lose down travel with the switch to SUA, I just don't see it any other way.

 

I’m considering that as well. I’ve been looking at builds on here but can’t find any hard info on travel they’re pulling. Sideways shots on a rock or forklift don’t really cut it.

 

Why do you need to see a taco done? Any vehicle is going to be the same concept. Done right you could pull mid to high 20's fairly easily.

 

The spring under kit will cycle 17” metal to metal and can go up another 2” with a frame notch

 

My setup will cycle 24.5” metal to metal and I have it strapped at 21”

 

I think I could live with that

Where’s the JD fab link kit for tacos?

 

Not interested in making a kit because to do it right you have to run a fuel cell and most aren’t willing to do that

 

Would a 3-link for crawling (that clears the tank) be less demanding than a 4-link for you high speed guys?

 

If you're going to crawl only, double triangulated with higher mounted lower links. Run a cell on top of your flatbed and call it a day.

 

I will never do anything with a panhard bar again. The lateral axle plunge is awful with anything more than 10” of travel, there is no way around it

 

panhards belong on lowriders but even then the trend has been to go to a watt's link to avoid expensive bodywork

 

Busted Knuckle is a short drive from here. I think a buddy sourced his links for his Sami there. Maybe that’d be a good place to visit. I don’t want to reinvent the wheel making every little bit from scratch if there are some prefab options out there.

 

FWIW, a double triangulated 4 Link really isn't that difficult to nail. It is 100% going to be the best bang for your buck for crawling. Hop over to pirate and start reading up on geometry. We have a wrangler I did double triangulated on, nothing whatsoever hangs below the axle tubes and with a 16" shock mounted to the top of the axle tube and leaned forward its pulling around 23" I had maybe a week of dicking around to get it all right. Might have 3K wrapped up into it with everything including coilovers.

 

Does that matter for crawling though? I would imagine that going fast through whoops it would because you're axle is dancing side to side, but going 1 mph it seems it wouldn't be an issue. Could be wrong though.

 

For crawling it doesn't matter a whole lot. But speaking from experience, getting the geometry right on a panhard can prove to be a bitch. I just don't see a reason to not 4 link in his case when he can just toss a cell up on his flatbed for a relatively low cost for big gains.

 

Yes because it causes the axle to shift a lot from side to side. You could end up with a DS hitting the gas tank or exhaust when it shifts. Not to mention the flex "steer" that's induced. Then loose a top link and you destroyed your DS at minimum.

 

This discussion caused me to do some digging into replacing the fuel tank with a fuel cell and there's really not any good info on this site regarding it. I found that interesting considering the vast amount of prerunners there are that put a fuel cell in.