Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

I think that's a great reason not to buy it. You'll be much happier not complaining about non issues.

 

The development of parts is all about getting numbers out there all in different situations to see how it all works. It may seem all good to go but you’re always going to have those that find a weak link or issue. Again, it’s not complaining. It’s pushing an already good product to be better. Kinda the purpose of R&D. The best builders in the world can put a new product out only to find there are issues. It’s no fault of the builder or anybody else.

How do you think the off road world has gotten where it is today? By finding failure points and improving them.

I’d bet money, if JD came up with a solution to this, you would be doing it to yours too.

Why would ANYBODY knock an attempt at increasing longevity of parts?

 

Because not all products and systems were designed and built for every type of situation, trail, climate, and vehicle. There are trade offs until that is realized it's beating a dead horse.

 

There’s almost always a way. Most of the time it takes a collaboration of like minds that say “lets fix this”. All I’ve ever hoped when bringing up this topic is to maybe get minds thinking and a solution to be found.

 

I thought the seal thing was figured out? See attached image. Looks like a lip seal to me

 

The passenger side isn’t really the issue. On the driver side, there are teeth in the shaft. That doesn’t have a full seal around it at all times.

 

I kind of regret ever bringing it up. All it did was create drama. I miss the days when enthusiasts worked together to make stuff awesome. Either that, or that’s just how this forum is. I do apologize for bringing drama into everybody’s day. It’s probably just time I look at stuffing a tundra rack as far forward as I can.

 

You’re fine. One guy decided to be a prick about it. We’ll all get over it.

 

too bad your previous posts were deleted. we'd all benefit being reminded what you said.

 

What he said is no different than the way you came off towards me. Look in the mirror. Your shit stinks too. This isn’t supposed to be drama filled. I promise. I won’t bring it up again.

 

The issue with trying to boot the slide rack is the driver side input shaft hangs over the side of the rack housing and makes contact with the clevis at full lock. The only way to deal with this problem is to change the clevis design but this will also have an impact on the steering geometry.

I will say of the 46 slide racks we have out there you are the only one that has had “issues” from lack of a boot. As we have discussed the internal seals in the rack need to be swapped over for a more robust double lip seal.

As I’ve stated many times we choose to stay away from a modified tundra rack because when it fails (and yes they will fail too) you are SOL until you can source another modified rack. If all you are doing is hot lapping around little off road parks then a broken tundra rack probably isn’t a huge concern. For the stuff we do being 1000miles away from home in the middle of Mexico one off broken parts are a nightmare.

Honestly they best solution is to convert to a steering box. Any and all OE racks will always be the weak link... slide racks, tundra racks, 200 series racks are all just band aids. The problem with a steering box is you’re looking at $5k in parts and about the same in labor. So that’s where we felt the slide rack is the best value for the money and prevents the use of one off parts. If the worst thing about it is that once a year you put new seals in it we can live with that.

 

Problem for me is I’ll be replacing a rack every year. Not just seals. My rack that was brand new with the slide rack is done. I’m limping it along until the truck comes down for the build. I’m not going to put a new rack in it every year. It’s just not fun at that point. I just don’t have the time to do a box setup right now, but I do know that’s the absolute best route to go.

I fully understand you guys can’t cater to all of us perfectly. And I won’t knock you for it. I’m just stuck in a bad spot now where I need to find a solution for myself. Whether it’s making a new clevis or just doing away with the slide rack all together.

 

Screenshots may appear on that “other forum”

 

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I was just hoping to hear some ideas I haven’t thought of, that’s all. I’d like to keep it around and make it work. Especially since I’ve spent over 20k on this build since July. I really didn’t want to spend a bunch more. But I guess you gotta do what you gotta do.

 

If you’re not happy with the slide rack please send it back and I’m happy to give you a full refund. Above all we want to make sure our customers are 100% happy with our products

 

That’s the problem! It’s the first time I haven’t had racks break and I love it. I am happy with it. It just sucks the rack is giving me trouble.

 

I will say: any time we want to modify and deviate away from stock many issues with everything will arise. You may need to replace the rack every year regard less if you have the slide rack. It may come down to what works better when working trying to handle 35's. We can look at the whole Jeep thing. Lots of people love jeeps and those that can afford too still change everything away from what was stock and still work on them more than they get used. It is just part of the game.

 

You aren’t wrong there. I’m just not one to give up without a fight.

I’ve even considered depowering the factory rack but using the servo on the factory rack to drive a hydro cylinder that would be put in place of the slide rack portion.