Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

I guess I always just assumed the outer pivot was moved forward I guess. But I suppose it all had to come forward for CV clearance.

 

Good to know and the plan was to push it back at least one setting anyways. And thanks. Shit ton of clearance at the back right now. Just need to get uca gussets, axles, and the correct misalignment spacers for the shocks. Got another solid weekend ahead of us next weekend to get it done

 

I have similar thoughts on it. If a boot could seal it up then I'm all over it. Otherwise, I'm thinking the modified Tundra rack will suit my needs and places I go better.

 

I had to run mine all the way back

 

Parts are starting to land!

 

Couldn't you just machine a lip to accept an O-Ring then place a seal in a cup that set screws over said oring sealing the end of the rod? It'd be a like 1/8" loss of steering stroke.

EDIT: I guess the teeth would still pull through regardless.

 

Yeah, there’s just no way. It is what it is at this point honestly. Hell, maybe I’m just a fluke all the way around with my problems. I do suppose there is a reason car manufacturers do heavy R&D in our area though.

 

My brain isn't here today (might pack it home early) but if it was I could brainstorm with you on some ideas.

 

@906taco

I started thinking of some off the wall cartoon shit in a means to seal your rack. It’s completely some out outside of the box thinking.

It’s most likely not feasible, but what if you sealed off the frame/cross member with some sort of elastic material, attached to the outside of the clevis( might need a different shape). The rack and clevis can push and pull this elastic membrane. You would have to of course seal off the other areas around the sub frame as well.

Or something like one of the air cannons. Membrane attached to the outer barrel(frame/ crossmember tunnel for the rack.) and attached to the clevis.

 

It’s not a water tight seal at all, more of keeping stuff off the road from splashing up at the rack. It would still be exposed on the other side of a membrane.


And once again. Just some off the wall crazy idea I was thinking of when i remember the BMW stretching over wheel fenders concept.

 

You’re not much further out of the box than I have gone honestly. I too had a similar idea. I haven’t fully walked away from this just yet, but sometimes I’m just all about torturing myself. I’ll continue thinking about things until the build is done. If I don’t come up with something, I have a front half now that I can start playing around with different ideas for a completely different setup.

And for what it’s worth. I genuinely appreciate thoughts and ideas.

 

Do that same thing but put something like a wisker biscuit on it (archery term) that way it kinda sweeps much of the crap off the steering shaft.

 

Why not machine a floating spacer that can move on the rack so you can attach a boot on the outside and somehow stretch a boot over the cut end? It will limit your turning that direction but it would at least help mitigate mud/debris being sucked into the rack. I know the drivers side gets cut so you remove the normal boot clamping area.

 

Seems like it time to start a new thread dedicated to putting a boot over something that doesn’t need it

 

I think it’s one of those deals where it gets completely sealed or doesn’t get done at all. If there’s anywhere for dirt or water to get in, you just end up with a place that holds it.

 

Lol I wasn’t trying to keep this going, I swear. Besides, I think I’m pretty sold on doing a Box with assist at this point. Unless I have some form of breakthrough between now and June which I doubt.

 

So, since this is on a totally different idea I hope it’s not taken the wrong way.

What if a guy were to replace the OE rack with essentially a bigger slide rack. Say 2” outer sleeve with a 1.25” rod. Then take and beef up the passenger side clevis and run the drag link from the box to clevis. Somewhat like Harry was talking about on Jesses truck, just with 2 sliders.

You could spiral cut the ID of the bushings which would allow the slider to be greased etc.

 

Just got back from JD Fab picking up my inner fenders, and most of you have said it, but what an awesome bunch of guys! 320 miles round trip to save on shipping, and more importantly to meet the men behind some great products. And thanks again to @81Trekker and Jesse for getting my last minute purchase together! And I guess that’s a thing to post a pic of parts waiting to get installed, so here’s my crummy photo of pure awesomeness. Thanks again JD Fab!



and thanks to @ovrlndkull for setting up the GB for the fenders!

 

Mine just came in today as well, actually just finished assembling them. Beautiful product and I can't wait to get them on the truck!